Hey All,

I'm in the middle of repairing my FAB9 COP wiring harness and have run into this snag. It's probably a very simple solution but I've never seen this type of connector point before.

It looks like a crimp connector but when I stick the open wire in, it doesn't go past the plastic bit.

So for the gurus out there, I've attached a pic. How do I stick the wire in!?

 

Crimp connector with heat shrink that's already been crimped? Replace it

 

Jesus ******* christ, do you require assistance to install underwear? You've never had to deal with a shaft too large for the hole? Pity...

Use the right gauge butt splices or get some lube and be all gay with it. Or just get the right size ****, that'd probably be best.

 

It was a butt connector that comes loose. Once you pull it apart you can see that it's a crimp lead.

I only ask because I'm not familiar with wiring.

Don't know why the question pissed you off.

 

Settle down. I'm sure as a baby you never **** yourself.

 

The best way to make that connection would be to solder it and add heatshrink. Those butt connectors are prone to failure (case in point).

 

but solder in the engine bay is not?

 

Unless the wire is resting on the exhaust manifold, I don't believe that temperatures would rise high enough to break the solder...

 

Its not the heat. It is the vibrations of the car that break solder joints. Theoretically you should not be using any solder joints in a wiring harness in a car.

 

Not bashing you here, but why would most car manufacturers require splices to be soldered?

 

They don't. At least not a single ASE trained technician I have talked to for any brand has said soldering over crimping. The technical school I took the AMP EFI clinic trained factory techs for Ford/Chevy/Honda and they only taught how to do proper crimps.

Now saying all this, I solder almost everything in my car and have not had issues.

 

i can tell you that the major truck manufacturer i work for does not use a single solder in the entire harness. all crimp splices or connector splice packs.

Proper crimps will do better than solder. PROPER crimps is key.

I also solder most things.

 

Tyco (also called TE Connectivity/Amp) make some "proper" (read brazed seam with serrated mating area) terminals.
Part numbers 34130,34137,34138 and 34318 in increasing sizes, which support inline or butt terminations with any old crimper.
Digikey and others carry them.

YMMV, but soldering will typically also work, if you properly support the wire. I had a particularly difficult to diagnose issue which turned out to be
a solder failure, so now I always go solderless.

 

BMW does not approve any soldering on any wire repairs. We use butt connectors for all repairs.