a/f gauge install question.
#7
http://www.aus-cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=21742
have a look at this little write up i did on this topic on another forum. it's a different meter but it is accessing the same wires. i'm not getting my 12v from the wire at the ecu anymore, i'm getting it from the blue wire at the ignition switch. much more current there.
my ecu is in the footwell in front of the passenger seat. i think they might be in a different spot in the american cars but i think the wire colour codes are the same. hope this helps.
have a look at this little write up i did on this topic on another forum. it's a different meter but it is accessing the same wires. i'm not getting my 12v from the wire at the ecu anymore, i'm getting it from the blue wire at the ignition switch. much more current there.
my ecu is in the footwell in front of the passenger seat. i think they might be in a different spot in the american cars but i think the wire colour codes are the same. hope this helps.
#8
very nice link fatty, thanks a bunch. I think i got thw whole thing in now, but im not exactly sure what im suppose to be looking at with the meter.
red = lean = bad
yellow = stoic = good
green = rich = good while under boost right ?
is that a decent assumption for the reading of the gauge ?
also, mine seems to be acting weird....
at idle are there suppose to be readings ?
while crusing, the light goes from red to yellow and back and forth. over and over.
but while im under boost, gauge will go to yellow stay in yellow and edge into the green.
i ran the hot and ground behind the gauge cluster and i ran the reading line through the firewall and sliced it into the o2 sensor wire. (could i be getting interference by splicing the line under the hood )
Scott
red = lean = bad
yellow = stoic = good
green = rich = good while under boost right ?
is that a decent assumption for the reading of the gauge ?
also, mine seems to be acting weird....
at idle are there suppose to be readings ?
while crusing, the light goes from red to yellow and back and forth. over and over.
but while im under boost, gauge will go to yellow stay in yellow and edge into the green.
i ran the hot and ground behind the gauge cluster and i ran the reading line through the firewall and sliced it into the o2 sensor wire. (could i be getting interference by splicing the line under the hood )
Scott
#9
it is normal for the meter to swing rapidly between lean and normal or rich when cruising. this is what happens when your ecu is in "closed loop" mode, which is the most fuel efficient for cruising.
this should probably happen at idle as well.
when you take your foot off the gas the injectors stop working until your revs drop back to idle, so as there is no fuel you will get a lean reading.
sounds like your gauge is working fine to me. just watch it for a few days and you'll start to understand what is going on.
this should probably happen at idle as well.
when you take your foot off the gas the injectors stop working until your revs drop back to idle, so as there is no fuel you will get a lean reading.
sounds like your gauge is working fine to me. just watch it for a few days and you'll start to understand what is going on.
#10
Boost Czar
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if you had a wideband you could read the gauge as the following:
The reason it's hard to tune with the narrowband signal is because you do not get a linear signal output from it:
Your gauge is working how it should be the signal you're giving it. What it's really only going to be helpful with it extreme situations, like WOT you'll know if you're rich or lean, but you won't be able to gauge exactly what the AFR really is.
The reason it's hard to tune with the narrowband signal is because you do not get a linear signal output from it:
Your gauge is working how it should be the signal you're giving it. What it's really only going to be helpful with it extreme situations, like WOT you'll know if you're rich or lean, but you won't be able to gauge exactly what the AFR really is.
#15
Boost Czar
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
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how about facts instead of scare tatics:
The purpose of a A/F gauge is to show your AFRs. We shoot for 11-12.5:1 in boost. A NB will show the same reading for 11-17:1 AFR, what good that does do for you? So the only thing you'll be able to read is if your AFR is below 11:1 or above 17:1.
Voltage outputs on NB are not proportional to the exhaust's o2 content.
NB voltage outputs have no linear relationship between the AFR and the sensor's volt output. Output voltages are approx. 0.5v at 14.7 AFR, and rise quickly to 0.9v as AFR is lowered below stoichiometric. The converse is also true...So the ECU therefore adds fuel till voltage is greater than 0.5v, then kills fuel till voltage is less than 0.5v, and AFR oscillates about stoichiometric...My WB oscillates between 15.2-14.5:1 AFR at idle, your's bounces back and forth and shows you nothing.
The purpose of a A/F gauge is to show your AFRs. We shoot for 11-12.5:1 in boost. A NB will show the same reading for 11-17:1 AFR, what good that does do for you? So the only thing you'll be able to read is if your AFR is below 11:1 or above 17:1.
Voltage outputs on NB are not proportional to the exhaust's o2 content.
NB voltage outputs have no linear relationship between the AFR and the sensor's volt output. Output voltages are approx. 0.5v at 14.7 AFR, and rise quickly to 0.9v as AFR is lowered below stoichiometric. The converse is also true...So the ECU therefore adds fuel till voltage is greater than 0.5v, then kills fuel till voltage is less than 0.5v, and AFR oscillates about stoichiometric...My WB oscillates between 15.2-14.5:1 AFR at idle, your's bounces back and forth and shows you nothing.