After searching for a good while, I've come up with no results. I just need to know if drilling/tapping the spot on my oil pan directly between where the dipstick comes out and the tranny is acceptable? It just works much better with my setup than drilling further forward of the pan

 

what setup are you installing that you rather try a different spot then our traditional location?

 

Its a homebrew setup using a manifold that I made myself, the turbo sits closer to the radiator and the PS/AC cause problems. I'm pretty sure my location is ok, but I figured I should check first.

 

Look at my diy turbo thread i just posted yesterday if you want another idea

 

Do you have the engine out of the car and the oil pan off? The biggest reason everyone puts the oil drain in the same spot towards the front is because that is where you can get with a drill to make the whole with AC installed. If the engine is out you can put the drain just about anywhere as long as it does not hit anything else.

 

Yup.

I've never really looked all that closely at the location you describe while the engine is actually installed in the car, mostly because I'd consider it sub-optimal relative to the usual location of a turbocharger.

But if you've got a special-case scenario, and you are satisfied that you can route the drain line in such a way as to clear the engine mount and subframe without putting any weird bends into it, then there's no reason why you couldn't return the oil to the rear of the pan rather than the front.

 

Thanks joe, that's relieving. Its also the most accessible for me, ill just drill from the wheelwell with a jobber

 

Also shuiend, having read many writeups I syill fail to see where people are fitting their drills up there, elaborate perhaps?

 

Looks easy to go down from the top and rest the drill on the steering rack. But I have no accessories on that side of the engine.

 

Take note that the oil pump pickup tube is just inside the oilpan in many locations down that side and when you drill through the pan you can wreck your day by puncturing the pickup tube.

 

If you check the FM install directions or the BEGI install directions they have pictures of how to fit the drill. My hole was drilled 6 years ago by Braineack so I do not remember what all exactly had to be done to fit the drill.

This is another thing that does have to be looked out for when drilling the pan.

 

i would've loved to tap the oil pan but buying that ONE USE tool wasn't worth it...so searching around, i found a T3/T4 oil return plate that is threaded for 5/8's NPT brass fittinng
so, the tinkering started...

ended up with this:

awesome thing is that if it ever breaks, all i need to replace is the plate, and not retap a bigger hole!








hope this gives another IDEA to the TAP and sCREW approach

 

Not trying to be a dick, but isn't that just more work than drilling and tapping? It also looks like you have more spots to leak from. Lll

 

no offense taken
i got this idea from the mazdaspeed protege stock oil retunr.
and it wasn't that much difficutly and as long as you put in a gasket and sealant, can't be any worse than tapping.

 

my oil pan


i realize not everyone has access to a TIG.. this has worked just fine. if it,(for some crazy reason) strips ill cut it off and weld another.

 

Mine is TIG welded the same as zipstrips' but I have it back a bit further to keep air conditioning:

 

I had to hold it in place and drill.

 

 

jealous?

 

this looks sexy as ****