1.6 Artech SR20 200hp 1/4 mile - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-04-2013, 02:47 AM   #1
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Default 1.6 Artech SR20 200hp 1/4 mile

**** times, but it was my first time, with an open, x6 heat cycled Neo Gens....and I'm sure I'll think of some other excuses.

I'm 526J, my friend in the other lane is a 300+hp FWD LSD Galant on RS-3s, in major need of some drag setup tweaking. Currently both our cars are floating between DD and full track circuit duty. Both do exceptionally well at both.

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Old 08-04-2013, 09:04 AM   #2
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I kind of want to try this now.
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:18 AM   #3
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Any idea what the car weighs?
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:28 PM   #4
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2150+ my 185lbs. I cut about 50-60 lbs out race trim, I didn't do any prep for this though.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:37 PM   #5
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I kind of want to try this now.
Bring it over...we can g-tech it.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:38 PM   #6
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Does the Galant weigh about 4000lbs?
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:39 PM   #7
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The eighth mile is what is killing you. You have enough mph to go in the 13's. My guess you will see that mph go up if you worked on your driving. It takes a little practice.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:48 PM   #8
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The eighth mile is what is killing you. You have enough mph to go in the 13's. My guess you will see that mph go up if you worked on your driving. It takes a little practice.
My 1/8th mile mph was 84mph and I ran a 13.9. Look at the difference in 60' times between his 2 slips. Now look at the 1/4mil time. On the second slip, he should've beat the other cars time...why only 14.9?
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:52 PM   #9
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Botched 2-3 shift. I saw huge improvements over 10 runs, definitely need practice. I have no idea how to properly launch a car, much less a turbo one. Well, I do, I just can't do it.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #10
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I ran 16.5 with my stock '90.

I understand that there are launch, shifting, and traction issues, but only two seconds faster for the double the power seems strange.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:30 PM   #11
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Botched 2-3 shift. I saw huge improvements over 10 runs, definitely need practice. I have no idea how to properly launch a car, much less a turbo one. Well, I do, I just can't do it.
Everybody does it differently. A line lock makes it really simple, cause you don't need to foot the brake when staging, but who has a line lock?
My technique:
Roll until staging light comes on.
Stop.
Right foot holds brake pedal and side steps throttle, left foot releases clutch enough to feel it start to grab. Yellow light before green, I slip my foot off the brake fully onto the throttle at the same time as I dump the clutch. Then it's usually wheel hop for a few shakes, when my tach his 7,000 I bang second and repeat with each gear until I cross the finish. If you set your rev limit to like 8,000rpm's, you might cross the finish in 4th. Nothing sucks more than to put it in 5th right at the finish line.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:31 PM   #12
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The botched 2-3 shift sucks. I've done that a pile of times...go for 3 rd and put it right into 5th.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamiata View Post
I ran 16.5 with my stock '90.

I understand that there are launch, shifting, and traction issues, but only two seconds faster for the double the power seems strange.
LOL at ONLY 2 seconds.

I never have my foot on the brake on the line. The track should be flat enough that you will not roll when staged. For a Miata, I always come out at a high rpm whether I am driving with a power adder or not. You never ever want to bog the motor. Some excessive wheel spin is better than bogging.

Most of your practice will be learning how to modulate the throttle at launch to match the tire you are using. Once you have that figured out, then you work on shifting. You need to experiment with different rpm shift points. It takes a few passes to really nail it down as to when is the best time to shift.

I looked at a few timeslips I had, and I started to get into the 13's @ 95 MPH when I had the less than ideal 95 cylinder head. That is of coarse with a good tire. You might have a hard time going into the 13's without a tire change, but I would wager that with practice your mph will go up some. It might be enough to get you there on the tire you are currently using.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:57 PM   #14
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You need to experiment with different rpm shift points.
yeah, redline...
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:07 PM   #15
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yeah, redline...
Actually, if the little turbo has run out of breath already, redline is too high to shift. An engine might mechanically hold together to 9500 rpm but stop making power at 7000.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:17 PM   #16
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REDLINE.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
LOL at ONLY 2 seconds.

I never have my foot on the brake on the line. The track should be flat enough that you will not roll when staged. For a Miata, I always come out at a high rpm whether I am driving with a power adder or not. You never ever want to bog the motor. Some excessive wheel spin is better than bogging.

Most of your practice will be learning how to modulate the throttle at launch to match the tire you are using. Once you have that figured out, then you work on shifting. You need to experiment with different rpm shift points. It takes a few passes to really nail it down as to when is the best time to shift.

I looked at a few timeslips I had, and I started to get into the 13's @ 95 MPH when I had the less than ideal 95 cylinder head. That is of coarse with a good tire. You might have a hard time going into the 13's without a tire change, but I would wager that with practice your mph will go up some. It might be enough to get you there on the tire you are currently using.
The brake is often used to just barely load up the motor so you don't shock the ever-living **** out of the drivetrain.

Probably not a big deal when only making 200hp or less.

This may also be why i have good luck with my transmissions, despite having ragged most of them at the strip.
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
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REDLINE.
Totally untrue.

Quote:
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The brake is often used to just barely load up the motor so you don't shock the ever-living **** out of the drivetrain.

Probably not a big deal when only making 200hp or less.

This may also be why i have good luck with my transmissions, despite having ragged most of them at the strip.
Too hard to have repeatable consistent results with a manual transmission. At least I never had much luck with that technique.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:02 PM   #19
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In my opinion, you should dyno and find out what rpm your torque starts to drop off at...that's the rpm where you shift.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:10 PM   #20
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In my opinion, you should dyno and find out what rpm your torque starts to drop off at...that's the rpm where you shift.
because slowcar.
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