I finally took my car to the dyno today to see where it is at performance wise so I have some way of measuring my progress.

I started the day with this:
185hp, 180lb/ft


Dyno was a Dynocom 15000
Dynocom Industries Chassis Dynamometer Systems Product Catalog

 

Rather than fight with closed loop boost on expensive dyno time, I decided to get a good open loop tune so that once I had my closed loop figured out I would know approximately what kpa equals what hp/torque.

We ended settling on about 10-11psi throughout. This resulted in 234hp and 232lb/ft torque. Obviously this is where rods like to bow out so I dialed it back in the end to a final tune of 223hp and 220lb/ft of torque.



I am surprised that my HP isn't higher. I thought that normally the torque number is quite a bit lower than horsepower. Looking now I bet I could have ramped up the boost later in the revs... Why is my torque falling off so badly? Maybe my spark tuning?

 

What is your setup again? too lazy to read through the whole build thread again.
*edit: glanced at your signature,
spool is kinda late too

can you post screen shots of timing and vvt map?
don't have mlv or ts on this comp

 

 

 

Looks like the richest your A/F meter will go is 11:1 so you may be even richer than that at 4700 RPM and then again a few hundred RPM later. I would think you would be shooting for between 12:1 and 11.5:1 Any richer than that you are leaving power on the table.

Keith

 

I have a couple observations but I am not sure how to interpret them.

First, the evidence/symptoms:
I have a rather large turbo. It should support 300hp easily. I am running a 7-8psi wastegate and relying on the EBC that DIYautotune sells to control boost. When I get above 5300rpm, I have to INCREASE the duty cycle of the EBC solenoid in order to get it to hold boost.

I am having problems tuning my idle. I just did a search for common MAP values for idle. Most people say 28-32 or so. I am typically at 19-22kpa at idle. This is an interesting divergence from common observation.

My spool seems to come on late. I am running a non-diverted gasses downpipe of mild steel from BEGI. It then feeds into a 2.5" Flyin' Miata midpipe with cat, and from there to a 3" magnaflow. My charge piping leaves my turbo and goes to an ebay intercooler. It looks to be of similar size to the one sold by FAB9 as a 350hp intercooler. I have no illusions that it is that good, but that is the size.

Do these things hint towards anything?

 

afr vs target

 

I don't use the megasquirt for boost control yet, but when I do I will set it up so that increased duty cycle = increased boost. Set up this way, a failure in the system (broken wire, solenoid coil failure etc) will result in reverting back to wastegate spring pressure. I assume they set it up this way by default since that is what you are seeing. You can increase spool by going to 100% duty cycle until you get close to your target boost, then rapidly tapering down to the duty cycle required to maintain your desired boost. You have to be very careful when doing this to avoid overshooting desired boost pressure. I wouldn't try it until you are 100% sure you are confident in how your boost solenoid reacts, and where the boost threshold of your turbo is.

Going to a separated gasses downpipe, getting rid of the cat, and going to a full 3" system will all improve spool. What size is the charge pipe, inlet and outlet of the intercooler?

Also, what size pipe do you have as an intake feeding your turbo? I ask because I had a 2.5" intake about 3 feet long on an old car of mine... it was choking the **** out of my turbo. When I went to a short 3" intake it improve my spool dramatically.

My idle was rock steady out of the box with my MS labs MS3, so I have never messed with it... sorry I can't help you there.

Hope this helps,

Keith

 

I was wrong... At 850rpm my vacuum is between 21-23kpa. Still lower than it should be I think.

 

Underground Autosports posted the vid... not sure if will load if you don't have FB...
https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=2&theater

Btw, the HP/TQ numbers are optomistic and likely calculated crank HP...