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Old 12-11-2010, 05:03 AM   #1
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Default Engine Building Questions

Ok, I realize that my last couple threads have been All questions and have went no where. But i have recently decided to turbo my car after all and i have a few questions about pistons.

My Original plan was to just throw a turbo set up on the car but the more i thought of it And how many people get tired of just 10lbs I figured i would start with my engine.

My engine is the 2001 vvt 1.8 with 84,xxx miles on it. It does not need a rebuild However i Am going to pull it apart and Build it.

My plans are M Tuned rods, Billet oil pump. re balance crank and all new bearings stock head maybe some port matching small things but i do not want to port to heavily At this point.

I have built Motors before just Not a Bp.So i have a few questions for you guys. I know there is a lot of questions asked on this forum But i Have searched and only found vague Answers So my last option is to ask directly.

First question is With the pistons. I Know that i am 10.0:1 compression on this motor And with a turbo you would want to be lower than this. So my options are???
Aftermarket pistons, Wiesco or something.
Stock pistons from a 99??? will they hold up to 300Whp
Or should i just keep my stock pistons and coat them. And deal with the higher comp ratio

I will not have the turbo set up complete when the motor is done being built i will break the motor in and drive the car without boost for a few months. so i do not want to drop the compression down to 8.0:1 ,Also are the aftermarket pistons loud. And i Also Have heard that savington is running a set with a large clearance and the motor doesnt last as long. This is planned to be a DD car with some ***. Not a race car. So i Doubt i will bore it maybe just hone it. So What are my options for pistons.

Second, What about Over sized valves? in some threads i have seen people mention that they problems with the vvt setup as far as lift and interference.
I would like to keep the motor a non interference set up. It gives Me a sense of security When I beat on it.

I have moved so i no longer have my shop. So i will have the lower end Built be a local engine builder that has a good Rep. So i need to have all the parts and the game plan together before i drop it off.

If this has been answered 20 times like the churbo threads i Apologize in advance i did search and couldnt fine anything conclusive. I have my Flame suite on. But i appriciate any help reguarding the subject.

P.S. My Grammar Is Terrible I Am posting from My iphone Without Taptalk. So Spare me Please.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:48 AM   #2
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If you're doing forged pistons (and you should be), you're going to be boring the motor. No getting around that. My motor is built loose because I take it to tracks like Willow Springs and Calspeed and do 220kpa 5th and 6th gear pulls in 100*F degree heat - I probably put a max of ~20-25 hours a year on the motor and if it lasts 2 years I'm thrilled with that. I run .004" wall clearances - for a street motor with Supertechs I would bore to .0028" (mfg recommendation). For turbo gasoline motors, I recommend 8.6:1 compression.

According to Jason Cuadra, VVT heads and 8.6 Supertechs are already interference. If you want security, switch to a Gates Racing timing belt.

TSE offers assembled shortblocks based on your good running core. Contact me for details.
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:45 AM   #3
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Damn, sav dropped some knowledge. So I guess I will bore and go for pistons. I figured that the stockers would be ok. But I guessed wrong.

So I'm guessing .020 over? And the shortblock idea
sounds good. I may contact you soon to check prices.

So anyone with piston preferences?

Thank you for the info sav
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:25 AM   #4
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Check the group buy section of the forum for Supertech piston group buy. Then talk to Adam at No Limit Motorsports about them and see if he will still give you a good deal.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:22 PM   #5
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I bought my supertechs about 2-3 months ago and Adam did them for $380 shipped.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:13 AM   #6
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When balancing the crank, consider doing the crank, pressure plate and fly wheel as a single unit. I saw great results from knife-edging the crank as well.

- L
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