Its ball bearing, the restrictor is build in. The turbo is not leaking any oil, I could plainly see that the oil had been coming from the breather. Also, like I said, I havent changed my fuel maps in weeks becuase they were dialed in. Now all of the sudden im getting rich readings. The power feels the same, and I dont get that nasty cloud of "rich" smoke out the back.

 

welcome to the spilled oil club.

 

well if the opg goes crazy that means silent knock. you might be 10-1 now and overfueling and knockingt he motor. something isnt right maybe the dyno operator had the laod set to high and it broke something in your motor.

 

I'm feelin pretty iffy about my motor now. I pulled the plugs and they look ok, but there is a distinct stutter while driving now. Also if I get on it even a little I can definately smell oil. The plugs arent wet though so I dunno what to think. Maybe headgasket!?!?!?! How much do leakdown tests cost usually? I dont have a gauge.

 

maybe you blew a oil seal on the turbo like i asked before how did the car react to the dyno that operator might have blown your **** up or at least sideways

 

I really couldnt tell you how it "reacted". I've never dynoed a car before so I have nothing to compare it to. Nothing seemed to go wrong or anything. I dont see how the turbo could have a blown seal, it has a restrictor built in.

 

Well look at it this way the dyno puts a variable amount of load on the motor. if the dyno operator had the laod set up to mimick a say 3K lbs car instead of a 2.6K lbs car is a big difference. And the aditional strain of trying to move 500+lbs more than it would have ever done on normal circumstances could adversly effect the motor, and might blow the turbo is the motor is trying ot do work down low it is barely capable of doing. But if the car did not bog and stayed smooth all the way up then the problem could be else where. I have said it before and i will probably say it agian. It is very difficult to diagnose from x miles away. GL man.

 

Also, the Garrett ball-bearing turbos might have a restricted opening in the oil-feed to the CHRA compared to a journlal-bearing turbo's inlet size, but that doesn't mean it's restricted enough for every possible application. That's why you see companies like ATP selling additional restrictors for cars in which the oil feed is still putting too much pressure into the CHRA.

 

yep....its possible that you are blowing oil past the compressor or turbine seals and thats where the oil burning is coming from. Take off the inlet tube and check for oil, also check your PCV and make sure its venting. It is entirely possible that you have excess crankcase pressure and thats why you are spewing oil out the breather...lots of things can cause that. A bad HG can, bad rings, and a bad PCV... good luck.

 

I talked to Brian yesterday and he just replaced his PCV valve. I think that was the problem. hopefully we'll know more info soon.

 

From Garretts site:

"Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo.

The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance."

Unless they have a 224xLC it is an inertia dyno so I doubt that the load parameters are an issue.

As for the AFRs changing it could be that the sensor is degrading.

You can make a leak down gauge pretty cheaply with a few parts from Homedepot and an auto parts store. Just put "how to make a leakdown gauge" into a search engine. You should also do a compression test. You need to determine why the oil gauge is going nuts, is it blowby or a cracked ringland or has the PCV just taken a crap and boost is pressurizing the crankcase.

 

Cody (www.lovefab.com) actually added a restrictor to my GT28 inlet which he didn't tell me about until later, but he knew it would need it. Do you have any pictures? Buy a compression gauge, its worth it, anyone buy an ebay one?

 

New pcv valve didnt cure the problem :(

 

Just checked, there is no oil in the intake path at all. It is all blowing out of the breather and burning off on the manifold. What can I do to differentiate between a blown hg and a cracked piston. The car sounds like it is running fine for the most part now and it only ejects oil in boost. I'm gonna unhook the wg actuator for now so I cant boost till I figure it out. ******* dyno....

 

Doesn't a blown head gasket suck coolant into the combustion and produce white smoke? Also, I think that one cylinder will read more than 28psi different in compression than the others. On the bright side, these motors aren't very expensive. You could get one of the lower compression automatic motors, wait, I'm getting ahead of things a bit. Sorry.

 

If you are in a bind for cash (and I know you are) I can send you down my compression gauge. Since I STILL need to send that solenoid to you.


another thing, just check you pcv valve by blowing in it. I've bought one that didn't work out of the package before. (I've had another that just sorta sealed up, not by blowing at it, but sucking into it from behind). It still just sounds like boost in pressurizing the crankcase from it, otherwise it's the rings. But I really doubt even at 15psi with 77° intake temps and a 12:1 AFR you did damage.

 

Ya the new one actually does let air by when I blow on it on both sides. Hmmm....

 

ok then. that's not good. It's gotta seal up. That's what you get for $2

 

Just run without the PCV connected to the manifold to help diagnose the problem.

Are the stock headbolts know to lift under boost?

 

He was getting knock as evidenced by the oil pressure gauge bouncing around. Unfortunately I'm guessing rings.

I think you can blow through a stock Miata PVC valve and NOT the GTX valve because of the crankcase pressure from the turbo on the stock GTX. One of the few engine parts that didn't become interchangeable.

Frank