Dyno tuned today.
 

Well finally got the car on the rollers today. And good news it made it home under its own power, alot more of its own power.

Setup:

1992 1.6 5spd
150K stock motor
Greddy kit with the only remaining part not upgraded being the turbo
ETD manifold
Tony's 2.5" DP to 3" cat to 2.5" exhaust straight through muffler
Stripes intercooler kit
460cc inj
Braineack MS with EBC boomslang
CLutchnet 3X PP and 4 puck sprung disk
Godspeed rad

Had a hell of a time making the EBC work smoothly but we got it. Added spring to help the WG. Got it to make 12-14 psi steady. After 20 or so pulls on the dyno made best of 189 Hp, not to bad but I was really hopeing for over 200. Its got a hickup at about 4500 rpm that we could not iron out, popular answer was that it was an ignition miss and would be solved by closing up spark plug gap or new coils. I'm open to ideas. The tach jumps when it happins.

But I got to tell you 189 hp in this light of a car really felt great driving home. I'm sure its faster than my mildly modded 5.0 DD.

I have a graph and I'll get it scanned in the AM and post it.

Anyone want my datalog let me know I'd be happy to let some if you experienced guys look it over.

Any bets on low long the rear lasts? Auto-x Sunday!

Thanks for all the help getting this project going!

Post a screenshot of your timing map when you get a chance. Interested in seeing what you guys came up with. Considering Ben made close to 250 on the greddy kit, maybe that was 17 psi though. I still think you should be at 200 at 14 psi.
Have the dyno plots to load up?

I was thinking the same thing. With those mods you should at least be at the 200 mark

Thats fuckin good hp goal for that psi dammm son lol nice :bigtu:

190 at 14psi is pretty low, but it may be the dyno. What dyno, what gas?

Was on a dyno dynamics dyno. 93 pump gas

http://www.dyno.com.au/dyno/controller

Spark map

that's about right on a dyno dynamics dyno. Add 17% to that to get equivalent dynojet numbers.

FWIW, that's exactly the same horsepower i got on my modified greddy kit on a dyno dynamics dyno at the same PSI. I had an emanage blue, Vortech FMU, and 1.8 tantops though. ;)

VE and EBC map

Question, what are you guys using for a Rev limit?
And what type of limiter are you using, Fuel cut, spark cut, or both?

If you're running a cat, you want to cut fuel for sure because raw fuel destroys the cat. The MSPNP base map has a 7000 soft cut and 7200 hard cut rev limiter with fuel only cut I believe.

7100 soft cut to 10 degrees
7200 spark+fuel cut

I NEVER hit the hard cut. It usually just sits there and howls away at like 7150rpm. Only times I ever hit the hard cut is on autocross courses where I stay WOT in 2nd gear all the way up to it.

Mike, nice numbers... we can get that EBC working, I know it.
Also, what exhaust are you running?

AND NEXT TIME TELL ME WHEN YOU'RE GOING TO THE DYNO!!!! I WANT TO PLAY TOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any restriction being created in the exhaust stream from going 2.5 to 3" and back down to 2.5?

The only thing 3" is the cat, figures that would help flow.


Sam Its working on the EBc with the values I posted. There just way off the maps you posted and I thought that was strange. Guess all cars are really different.

You get to see get on a dyon with it next weekend. By then the cat will be a pile of dust on the floor. Well see if that helps.

My concern is the turbulance caused in the exhaust stream by the abrupt change in exhaust diameter. May not have as much factor as I think, but it was good for a few hp on an NA honda/acura motor.
Look at the exhaust stream as fliud, that fluid will most likely follow the bottom of the pipes. As it hits the lip going from 3" to 2.5" it can cause a swirl effect, but not a good one.
I understand your thinking, and I would not say anything unless I had seen it myself before.

add a .1uF cap from js8 to ground. gap plugs at .30"


:useless: <-dyno plots that is.

I think .3" is a bit big :giggle:

Plugs are gaped @ .030"

Whats the cap going to do?

filter the tach signal a bit, it's all the rage.

Gave up on the scanner, how bout a photo?

Your torque curve falls off quite a bit those last 2000rpms, if you could flatten it out you could find some more HP. Maybe a full 3" exhaust would help with that.

yep, greddy kit alright.


did you log the pulls? betcha anything the boost dropped a few pounds by redline....you should look for Ben's EBC table and see what he has to do....iirc redline goes to 100%DC.

looks like you're probably losing boost by redline, try a helper spring it helped me

Same here. The helper spring would hold 9psi with no boot controller.

Think the 3" cat is a restriction?

you timming is killing you man :bang:

maybe a little, but the boost loss is worse.


even if he held 200rwtq to just 5300RPM which it should in the least....peak HP would jump +20 to 200rwhp.

So anyone have pics of there spring setup? How many lb spring? I have one but I guess its not strong enough. I just don't want it to be too tight.

How much more timing you think is safe before destination?

I'm leaving now.. i should be there in about 30 minutes..

Make the spring adjustable so you can dial it up or down a bit.

Well dialed in the boost with a MBC and got it stable @ 13-14psi. Thats about 4-5psi higher than the 1st time on the dyno. Went to a different dyno and guess what?

Old #'s

Attachment 213969

New dyno with 5psi more???

Attachment 213970

So why is most others with the same setup putting down 230-250 whp?? Where is it? I'm getting frustrated.

I still thinking the "burp" @ 4500 RPM is ignition related. Ordering new coils this week.

HELP!

Dyno Dynamics dynamometers (say that ten times fast) are notoriously brutal on the numbers.. Do you have any other logs.. like AFR ?

His second plot showed a max of only 189.45hp on a DYNOJET.

it's hard to compare numbers on different Dynos is what i'm tying to say but not doing very well.

and the 2nd graph has AF and Boost.

I'll just duck out now maybe no one will notice.

:beer:

Lol. His numbers should've been higher on the second dyno chart even at the same boost level. 17 percent higher according to Supersaiyan.

you guys seem to have really low timing adavance and on the top end. here's my map last time i was on the dyno with my greddy, put down like 244whp uncorrected

I may be stupid but it downloaded as a ".vex" file what opens that? Got a screen shot?

I think you open a vex with megasquirt. It'll import only the timing table versus importing an entire .msq with all the settings that may not be right for you application.

I love you Mach929.

Oh ok. I'm @ work with no MS software on this computer.

Anyone post a screen shot of the table? I'm stuck here till 4am.

mike add a .1uF cap on js8 and GND.

here was my timing table:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/timing/newtiming1.jpg

I've gone as high as this:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/timing/diytiming.jpg

"mike add a .1uF cap on js8 and GND"

Ok. Whats it going to solve?

anyone have any guesses?

I have roughly that same issue but it's between 3500 and 4200 where I get rich spikes even though the fuel table is smooth...

I'll check spark gap first to see if that helps... but I get scared when you guys start getting all electrical on me. WTF does .1uF mean? I guess just tell me I can get one at Radio Shack.

PLEASE LISTEN TO SCOTT and add the cap!!!!

It filters/smooths out the tach signal AND IT WILL WORK. It took the inventors of MS to figure this out (Per Jerry@ Autotune).

BTDT...

Last pic in post 2 shows where and how.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13676

yes you can. i just picked up a pack of 5 for like $2

is this "adding a cap" thing also valid for mspnp models?

yup,if not done by DIY already. my august version of the 94/95pnp didn't have it yet. i never had any hiccups but i added it when going to HiRes

IIRC: You have have to check w/ DIY on that one, This hiccup didn't come to light til they were working on the 96/97 mspnp, I doubt earlier versions have it and it's not consistent between cars.

Piece of cake fuckers... add this to my weekend list of Miata shit.

1. Pull Valve Cover.
2. JBWeld nuts for COP holdowns.
3. Clean, sand, paint Valve Cover.
4. Gap plugs
5. Add J8 resistor.
6. Install COP's, test (maybe adjust cranking pulse-width).
7. Clean intercooler and hit it with some flat black.
8. Fab up seatback mounting bracket for uber-seat (seat currently held in by twine).
9. Seriously consider new timing map.
10. Finally get down to LongShots and have a beer.

You forgot build DET can to help w/ your timing tune ;)

What's a DET can?

OH yah, and I need to do the research on a CATCH CAN since a "guy" I know swears I'm burning oil even though I'm not.

http://i29.tinypic.com/10mn9eq.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/1uf_cap.jpg

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Fixed

My car needs it. Has a random misfire event that tends to occur when at high speed cruise (70-85mph). Some days, it won't happen. Other days, it'll do it 3-5 times. Hoping that this cap clears it up. As soon as I get my MB back (again) I'll be doing this.

My 1990 suffered from this missfire as well so it's not just the later models. I fitted the thingy widget to my MSPNP and it cured it completely.

I am so stoked to find out about this... I had no fucking clue what was causing this thing... just a random-no-reason rich spikes betweem 3500-4200rpm that nothing would fix. I'll be sure to post results.

Sorry all. I know you told me of the cap before but when you said it would fix the "tach signal" I just thought it would solve the tach on the dash jumping at that RPM and I knew there was a seat of the pants miss too. So I though the dyno would show that it was a power loss problem not just a tach issue. Again sorry.

NOW BACK THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM!!!!

Where The F**CK is My 50 other horsepower????

what was your AFR? your fuel map looks hella rich.

it's quite possible that the loaded dyno had heavy corrections on it....I betcha if you go back to the original dyno you'll have more power.

I though AF looked good :dunno: