FE3 t3/t4 Miata - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-14-2007, 01:07 PM   #1
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Default FE3 t3/t4 Miata

Fell "victim" to conservative AF targets. Final run 3 showed ~10rwhp/ftlbs gain with 4 points of Link master fuel removed. AFR on that run (16 to 14 to 16 psi) ran 11.2 at the power peak to 10.6 in the dip and to 7k. Pulling the master killed spool since the low end went lean, but showed how rich the higher boost was as the torque falls, the hp plateaus and then falls. Lots of tuning left to do.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:06 PM   #2
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Fell "victim" to conservative AF targets. Final run 3 showed ~10rwhp/ftlbs gain with 4 points of Link master fuel removed. AFR on that run (16 to 14 to 16 psi) ran 11.2 at the power peak to 10.6 in the dip and to 7k. Pulling the master killed spool since the low end went lean, but showed how rich the higher boost was as the torque falls, the hp plateaus and then falls. Lots of tuning left to do.
I think you need to consider swapping that turbine housing for a .63 housing, with a 2.0 you should have enough motor, additionally at 15 PSI that turbo should be making alot more power. I suspect timing is far to conservative up top too, just a guess.

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Old 05-14-2007, 05:39 PM   #3
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looks good rob. i agree on the turbine housing. i'm running a .64 a/r and it's not too much. (the .86 woulda been)

did you measure knock for your pulls?
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:43 PM   #4
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I think you are exactly right. I didn't swap the turbine to the .63 at the time because it was going to require rebuilding the entire downpipe and I'd come to the end of the road for fabrication time. Also required another wastegate solution. I've got a 5-bolt merc and my .63 is 5-bolt ford.

I based all my maps on the FM defaults and it hurt on the dyno. NA 1.8 with an avo ran 250rwhp on the same dyno with a link at 12:1 and 15psi. I'm tuned for 11.1 at 15psi. I have no horsepower on the top end. Other FE3s keep climbing like the BPs - so there's lots tuning left up there. I'll get there. I'm a newb at this tuning stuff.

I know of an Mx3, same engine and turbo - 293whp at 14psi. So I know I should be near there.

I just wanted to leave the dyno w/o my SSA manifold coming apart.

No knock with any of the changes. More room for less fuel and more advance.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:47 PM   #5
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When adding timing do you just slowly add it across all areas, see where you are getting knock and then adjust those areas back?
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:51 PM   #6
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You want to push timing up until knock... then pull mostly at Peak torque. After that a slow rise in timing usually works.

At least... thats the rule of thumb I've been told to follow.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:54 PM   #7
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I can't think of another way to do it- especially street tuning. I just adjust the IGN TRIM and look for knock. Keep bumping the trim, then pulling back on any zones with knock. Make the final over all MAP adjustment based on your trim to zero it out.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:03 PM   #8
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Figured that's the way to do it. Just seems sort of ham fisted.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
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You want to push timing up until knock... then pull mostly at Peak torque. After that a slow rise in timing usually works.

At least... thats the rule of thumb I've been told to follow.
well, you want to push it up til you stop making more power--hopefully without knock. no point in going beyond that to find knock.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:17 PM   #10
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IGN tuning is just way easier on a dyno for that reason. But I've sync'd my DLL power graph settings to match my dyno sheet - so that should help with street tuning.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:19 PM   #11
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How do you do that Rob? How does DLL calculate power? Timed acceleration?
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
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IGN tuning is just way easier on a dyno for that reason. But I've sync'd my DLL power graph settings to match my dyno sheet - so that should help with street tuning.
mine look nothin like each other. go figure. not even remotely.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:00 PM   #13
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It's in the tools menu. Input your specs and graph. I just dropped weight on the car until they were similar. What I'm using it for is to show a difference (hopefully improvement) after making changes and doing another log. I'm sure it's based on the weight, gearing (among other specs) and time of rpm change.
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:39 PM   #14
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I did... if I try to match the peak power, it looks only vaguely similar. I tried fooling with drag coeff and dyno corrections and I can change the shape, but it says 800 rwhp. haha.

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Old 05-15-2007, 12:11 AM   #15
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yeah, mine's much closer. Does a good job of matching the flat areas after torque peak.
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Old 05-15-2007, 04:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I know of an Mx3, same engine and turbo - 293whp at 14psi. So I know I should be near there.
Same turbo at 14 PSI peak falling off a bit on the high end of the curve I made 295 RWHP in a miata, so yes I agree that's a good target to shoot for. This was done on a built 1.9 BP motor with higher compression hence less boost to make the same power roughly.

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Old 05-15-2007, 07:03 PM   #17
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Holy Torque.
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Old 05-15-2007, 07:14 PM   #18
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me no like FM defaults
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:26 AM   #19
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Peak torque should be at ~5k+ - yet another indicator more tuning is needed.

No kidding. It's safe for sure.

I actually referenced your last IGN map, and Y8s' for tweaking mine. Pulled about -1.5 adv from yours for my .5 compression. No knock on the first run. Then I bumped advance 1* and got some knock. Haven't looked at the log yet. Curious to see where it is. EGTs appeared lower. I actually found a stretch of vacant hwy in ATL that allowed me to run to redline in 4th and 6500 in 5th before shutting it down. Should be some good data.
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:32 AM   #20
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lower EGTs are probably a good sign the timing is back where it needs to be.

I myself ordered a KnocksenseMS so I can log/see knock events so I can do a better job a dialing in the IGN...plus a loaded dyno wont hurt..
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