GT2560r + Stock 1.8 first dyno

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Old 04-01-2019, 09:37 PM
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Default GT2560r + Stock 1.8 first dyno

Finally got the thing tuned this weekend. The tuner is a local guy who tunes mostly megasquirt miatas in the autocross/hpde scene and was recommended highly by several people. He seemed very impressed by the flow of the kraken pieces - initially estimating my setup to make about 190whp with a bar of boost. I was pleasantly surprised with how much it ended up making.





Blue is as I brought it in with my own tune at 7psi and green would be the end result at 13psi. I Would have liked to go higher boost but he didn't seem comfortable doing that so we ended there.
I'm thinking I should be able to bump it up to at least 15-16psi. Any thoughts?

Car is an absolute blast to drive after the tune. Much more responsive and smoother in power and obviously a lot faster. Tuner is very knowledgeable guy and I learned a lot from the session.

Setup is
1997 1.8 210k mile stock engine
GT2560r with billet compressor wheel
Kraken cast manifold
2.5in downpipe - 3in exhaust
660cc EV14 injectors
MS3 Basic

Last edited by YankyMate; 04-17-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:54 PM
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Solid setup. Good numbers. Congrats.

I would not push it any higher on stock engine, you're already in banana rods territory.

My ex 2560r with billet wheel and on an avo cast manifold made 200tq ar 3250rpm. Yours seems a bit later at 3600.
Not sure why, kraken manifold should flow great, so maybe you have less timing in that area or something. Or wastegate cracking open earlier.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by borka
Solid setup. Good numbers. Congrats.

I would not push it any higher on stock engine, you're already in banana rods territory.

My ex 2560r with billet wheel and on an avo cast manifold made 200tq ar 3250rpm. Yours seems a bit later at 3600.
Not sure why, kraken manifold should flow great, so maybe you have less timing in that area or something. Or wastegate cracking open earlier.
My only guess is that it seemed like he was holding the rpm between 3000-3500 and starting the pull from there. I've never been to a dyno so I'm not sure if this is how it's supposed to be done.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by YankyMate
My only guess is that it seemed like he was holding the rpm between 3000-3500 and starting the pull from there. I've never been to a dyno so I'm not sure if this is how it's supposed to be done.
Youre right, it does seem like he only started each pull at 3200 rpm.
I usually ask the dyno operators to start each pull real low, so i can see the spool up.

you can do a couple virtual dyno pulls in 4th gear from like 2k rpm and that will show you spoolup
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by borka

My ex 2560r with billet wheel and on an avo cast manifold made 200tq ar 3250rpm. Yours seems a bit later at 3600
What cylinder head were you running? On my rods only bp05 VD says I don't make 200wtq until 3550. Not sure how much 4800 ft elevation is hurting me though.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
What cylinder head were you running? On my rods only bp05 VD says I don't make 200wtq until 3550. Not sure how much 4800 ft elevation is hurting me though.
rods only build with vvt head.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by borka
rods only build with vvt head.
That's gotta be worth 300 rpm to the 200 wtq mark.
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Old 04-02-2019, 04:44 PM
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Nice numbers, 231whp is no joke especially on a 210k engine. The power curve looks really nice. Im gonna try to get my car on a dyno this weekend.

Edit : Definitely dont bump it up to 15-16psi unless you want to bend a connecting rod. At 15-16psi youll be making 250+ TQ and that will make a stock rod turn into a bananannananna.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:23 PM
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Probably has enough blowby to keep it from bending...
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:47 PM
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If you want more power, best to ramp the extra boost in past 4500 rpm, I start at 10 psi at 4k and ramp to 14 at 5.5k. Haven't been on a dyno but the rods have stay on the inside so far with a fair amount of track time.
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