Miata GReddy Dyno
#23
Originally Posted by jayc72
My understanding is that the bipes can only retard timing, news to me that it can add it back in.
http://frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
#25
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Originally Posted by brgracer
The original designer of the bipes modified the newer versions to add timing back in at higher rpm. See the following link under the software revisions section there is a graph of version 1.5 12/20/01 that shows how it adds timing back in.
http://frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
http://frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
#26
not unless you have an IC or timming control or WI, or, dont like your motor. He has an IC so he should be ok. i leave mine at 10 becouse it just feels better but that is just me one day i will see if a get more boosted power with more timming probably so but for now 10 degress is good for me. Not to shabby kid free up that exhaust and you should get some more hp.
thanks, marlon
#31
This looks like a nice setup. I am getting my hands on the Greddy in about a week, and am looking into intercoolers. What diameter tubing are you using to connect the intercooler to the intake manifold. Do you know what the benifits are to having a 2.5 or 2 in piping? Ive seen anywhere from 2 to 3 in piping being used.
#33
Thank you Braineack. Why is that? I understand that you want the tubing to 1 get rid of heat and 2 deliver air to the manifold (under pressure) efficiently. This means a smooth pipe. If you were to have a larger volume of air inbetween the turbo and the manifold, wouldn't the turbo have to work harder to keep that larger volume of air under pressure? By increasing the volume of the tubing, wouldn't that creat a lag? Do you know what I should be looking for in the tubing, from a design stand pt?
#35
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the turbo compresses the air, it should fill a large volume of pipes and make it to the TB in approximately the same amount of time it takes to fill 2" pipes.
if you can measure a difference, I'll give you a cookie.
what i believe to be ideal is 2" into the intercooler (or match your turbo outlet) and 2.5" out of the intercooler to match to TB.
if you can measure a difference, I'll give you a cookie.
what i believe to be ideal is 2" into the intercooler (or match your turbo outlet) and 2.5" out of the intercooler to match to TB.
#38
the turbo compresses the air, it should fill a large volume of pipes and make it to the TB in approximately the same amount of time it takes to fill 2" pipes.
if you can measure a difference, I'll give you a cookie.
what i believe to be ideal is 2" into the intercooler (or match your turbo outlet) and 2.5" out of the intercooler to match to TB.
if you can measure a difference, I'll give you a cookie.
what i believe to be ideal is 2" into the intercooler (or match your turbo outlet) and 2.5" out of the intercooler to match to TB.
I mounted the AFM directly on the turbo, clocked the turbo downwards and used a 3" stainless elbow which goes into a 3" pipe running in front of the engine up to the TB.
Turbo now kicks in at 3,900 RPM whereas before it was around the 3,500 RPM.
Now....where's my cookie ?
I'm still not hitting 6PSI though for some reason and that was my main reason for changing all the pipes as there was a boost leak in the old ones. Gonna check all the couplers & Tbolts again since it was 11:30pm last night when I brought it out for the first time and couldn't see crap.
#39
Fergus- What size were the stock Greddy pipes? Am I correct in understanding that the larger pipes increased the RPM at which you were hitting a given boost pressure? Where you hoping to increase your boost pressure by increasing the pipe size, or where you just trying to correct an old leak with new pipes?
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