so after installing a 190 fuel pump i got the car back to the dyno. picked up 2hp but other then that it was all the same.

car was always running 10.8psi the boost gauge just sucks and is being sent back.

car was tuned for 91, not 93 or race gas so i could have reliable power in any state and not have to mix fuel at hallett.

 

sweet. so its 11psi instead of 9. what is your knock table looking like?

care to post up your map?
I'm just curious what your settings are like.

also how are your warmup enrichments, throttle tip in, and all that?

 

what is a knock table?

 

I meant your "set background knock level" table in "analogue calcs" tab

 

i know, i had to go take a screen shot. i'll add the map to the first post

 

60 at 4500 is really low.
is your spark table always left on open loop?

cause most of us get a ton of noise in that region when there's really no knock.

 

So what were the power numbers?!

 

240hp 220ftlb

 

Can you enlighten me? going back from more tuning with some 550cc as the 335cc are out of fuel.

ignition is running closed loop and knock level retard at 70 for 2550ms. would like a proper knock setting that works to save my motor under fuel starve and other situations.

 

I mean if that's all the static you get in that area then great, but my car was seeing 100-120 counts of false knock (verified with det cans) at 4500, and pulling timing for no reason. A few others had the same.

How much ignition is it pulling in that area, if any?

Cause if you're in closed loop, have your base knock table set to 60 at 4500, and are getting false knock in that area like most of us did, it will be pulling a bunch of timing there. If not, then great.

Basically get det cans, tune the knock filter, then dyno tune the spark.
Though I'd still keep det cans on there during dyno time just to double check the knock sensor.

 

great, i'm to dumb to have any clue what your talking about

 

just show your tuner his post. prolly won't need to if he's an experienced tuner though. he would notice the timing retard or the valley in the graph if you were having a problem. i had my knock sensor go out on me so i just disconnected it. at the power level i'm running i knew it was fine, and has been for the last 18mos., although i have new knock sensor on it now that came with my new/used ecu. are you trying to make more power or just tuning for the new injectors to have a safe amount of headroom. aren't you the one that told me 330cc injectors were the best ever?

 

Your knock sensor thinks there's knock going on, but it's not. This comes down to how I constantly chuckle inside because so many tuners with "solid reputations" sit inside a car, in a closed building while tuning a car ripping on the throttle and expect to hear detonation. I could go on and on about how no tuners properly load test a car after tuning, especially a racecar, using a naked ear. This is what happens when the guy tuning the car doesn't have any money invested in the engine. Luckily for you, the guy who tuned it knows enough to use caution, but I still don't trust a knock sensor over my det-canned-ear.

Remember when I tuned John's car on the dyno with the screwed up read-out by ear (with eddy control still working), with the det cans, and it matched DIY and 949's tuned spark tables? Yeah, that's what I'm talking about.

I had to hold a gun to his head and explain "dead time" and explain to him how I have old, shitty RX7 550+cc injections and my car idles and drives better than anything he's ever known. He listened to reason though.

 

I was calling you about this earlier but for got about it went i left for dinner. Kan is going to go back over all my tune setting as the map i started with was for a 99 stock everything from Australia and all he and i changed was idle, crack, fuel table and spark table.

don't think so, may have regulated info that my car runs well because of the 335cc i had in it that i was hearing from tuner and local people.

 

open loop ignition ftw.

btw. Here's my current ign map. MP62 @185kPa (actual boost is around 14.5PSI). I run around 17-18 deg BTDC at boost....(and wait for it)..... without IC

and before someone ask's. Car is tuned with detcans and cooled with WI (IAT easily stays below 122F)