We add an additional thermal coating to the crown of the piston. It increases detonation resistance by keeping the piston cooler and decreases oil temps by preventing heat transfer through the piston. Anecdotal data says it's worth a few extra degrees of safe timing on pump gas, and the cost is relatively low, so it became a standard feature on all of our shortblocks a couple of years ago.

 

That makes sense. I guess youll take whatever you can get for CA91.

​​​​​​In the phrase 'skirt wear etc', the etc was for the thermal coating which he wrote about. I wasn't sure if it came with both but he preferred a different one based on testing. Appears as though the skirts are coated, but the crowns are not. I thought both were done from the factory but he liked a specific blend.

It is what it is.

 

I haven't posted in quite a while, but this was to glorious not to applaud.


After a ton of experience with the B1 frame turbos on the Subaru EJ and FA platforms, I'm really happy to see these making silly power on the BP.

I just picked up a 95 that totally needs boost now. I could put off finishing my WRX for another year. Lol

 

Do you mind sharing what you are running?
Zero toe and zero camber?
Thanks in advance!

 

1/8" toe out in the rear. Just to keep him on his toes.

 

Andrew,

Do you still retain the oil squirters in this and other motors you build or have you changed your practice? I saw a thread where you said you retain them 3-4 years ago but wanted to see if that was still accurate. Pat had mentioned that the different material for supertech vs wiseco might be have a been a reason to retain vs blockoff respectively.

 

I leave the squirters in every motor I build.

 

Setting alarm for 1/8/2021 to check in again.

 

"Alexa, put this thread in my calendar for 1/8/21."

 

Everyone loves a squirter

 

Just saw this. Yes zero toe, zero camber.

 

Andrew, did you find that the DW300 couldn't provide the fuel you were needing? I am about to order a fuel pump from you (was going to get the DW300) but I see you pulled it for the WP450. I won't see your power level for a couple years but I am wondering if I will be making a mistake by buying the DW300.

 

Andrew I am pretty blown away by this. With nothing but a different turbo manifold and turbo you are making a claimed 70whp more than I have on local dynos. Now I know the US dynos read high compared to ours but 70whp is a huge ******* gap.

Ive been racking my brains trying to figure out how. How can an EFR beat an equivalent GenII GTX by 70whp ?

I have only 3psi pressure drop so its not the cheap intercooler. I have no idea.

 

 

I pulled it because it died randomly while I was testing a different ECU, not because I thought it wouldn't make it to 400whp. DW's warranty and service is good, but I needed a replacement ASAP so I took the opportunity to upgrade. To be fair, I also didn't expect to make 450whp, and I doubt the DW300 would have made it there.

The math is pretty easy if you can work backwards from injector duty cycle. A quartet of ID1000s at 85% DC (my 415whp map) and 60psi will flow 240lph. At 450whp they were 95%, so that's 270lph. That assumes you are feeding the pump with some healthy wire, which I am (10awg off the battery), but at these power levels, that had better be a safe assumption (hint).

The current DW300 at 80psi (20psi boost) is rated to 275lph, Enough to make it to 415whp, but not much headroom past that. The Walbro 455 is rated to ~300lph at 85psi (25psi boost), so I have a little headroom to play with there, but again, not much.

I put this spreadsheet together a while ago of all the popular pumps. The DW300 got an update in 2014 so both versions are listed.



The Walbro doesn't install as nice as the DW300, so up to 400whp I would go that way. Up to 450whp or so, you can use the Walbro with a straight rewire. North of 450whp you need to think a little harder. I really don't want the complexity of a dual-pump setup, so north of 450whp I'm looking at ID1300s and something to increase the voltage at the fuel pump, but realistically I should also be thinking about an upgrade to 3/8" fuel hose, and probably converting to a returnless setup as well.

More info than you probably wanted, but at this power level, everything needs more thought

 

You're talking e85 only right?
I've a dw300 at 460whp on pump gas right now, no issues. On corn it was seriously struggling past 400 on 43psi base pressure and 22psi of boost.

As for higher, I'm curious why anyone would want the 1300 over 1700 since price is within $100. You try 1700's on megasquirt yet? Probably need racecar idle settings

 

They do read higher. I dont know what you want me to say. Stock NB8b's dyno 100-105whp here.

But for real, how is it possible to have 70rwhp at the same boost with everything else identical?

This is a question for learning, Im not calling Andrew out.

Dann

 

A dyno is a tool. Most can be manipulated. To say "dyno's in US read higher" is the same blanked statement as saying "all AU dyno's are upside-down". It's just ignorant.

It's a well designed turbo. Of course it also helps that he's done everything else "by the MT book" too. Maybe someday Garrett will step their game up. Maybe. For now I recommend EFR's to everyone. It's not hype.

 

Tell me if you support this statement then:

'If you swap your GTX2867r for an EFR6758 you will make 20% more power on the same boost.'


Im sure its a good turbo, but I want to know what the percentage improvement is compared to a GTX Gen2. I dont have a problem with the conclusion being 'its better', its just that 20% sounds implausible to me. I would just like to know what the improvement found is.

The only reason I ask is that I literally just tuned a VVT motor which is identical in every way bar the mani/turbo and made 70+whp less on the same boost.

Dann

 

Are you measuring power with the same ruler as Sav? (Read: are you on a Dynapack?)