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Old 09-23-2007, 03:05 AM   #1
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Default emu on a 2001 miata Problem with spark "resolved"!!

Hello
I have installed a EMU on a 01 miata with a bloomslang harness. One problem i have is the car will not start. I pulled a spark plug and there was no spark when trying to crank the engine. anyone have any suggestions on what may be wrong with it? i changed the 8th jumper to a 5v system can that cause the problem? The car is stock condition no modification. Please help.

Last edited by musanovic; 09-24-2007 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:41 PM   #2
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You're probably having the same issue i did....If you havent updated the firmware/program, the one that ships with it seems to have an issue updating the ignition settings on the fly. It'll just leave the channels blank...try going through all your settings export them to the emu and then run the compare thing to make sure they were updated.
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Old 09-23-2007, 04:31 PM   #3
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will try that later on today. i am just afraid that there is a ground missing or something minor like that which makes my life a living hell. i checked on the logger and Maf works, Intake temp sensor works, Throttle does adapt, i am just stuck.
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:57 PM   #4
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can anyone offer more help. do i need to ground the EMU to the ECU or to the car itself?
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:09 PM   #5
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Bypass the EMU totally where ignition is concerned. Hook the wires up directly to the ECU again and see if she starts. If it doesn't start, then something else is wrong.

As long as the Emanage is starting up, there is no problem with the grounding. The ignition system doesn't need it's own seperate ground on the Emanage.

When you say you changed the jumpers to a 5v setting, is that telling the Emenage to expect a 5v power signal? Car batteries are 12v...
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:31 AM   #6
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Hey Bev, he is reffering to this... https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=11948

ok the boomslang should be alright so lets rule out the loom (mine was very well built)

can you remove the harness & check that the car still starts & runs with the orig ecu (that way we can rule out any problems with the car as standard)

next check all your jumpers & the double check them, it can get annoying so maybe get someone else to do it for you while you read out what they should be (use the link above if needed)

update to 2.13 (if you havent already done so) when i tried connecting my computer to the emu it didnt like it at all until i updated the software.
(this wont help the car start but you can data log while trying to start up & put it up here where my hero's will check & see that everything is how it should be)

ok silly things check things like your alarm (could be switched on if you have one) or any kill switches) again this will all be ruled out by removing the bs loom & starting the car up

check to see if the lights on the emu are on constantly or are flashing .....

see how you go with that while i think some more,


let us know how you go

Zoran
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:02 AM   #7
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I had the same problem on a 2001 with the emu and boomslang harness.
To get the engine start, you have to disconnect the timing monitor wires (Crank Signal e Ignition Signal ), use only the rpm wire.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:14 PM   #8
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to give you all an update, when Musanovic plugged in stock ECU the car started right away...can someone elaborate a bit more on what he should do to get the EMU/boomslang to start, IOW does he need to keep the Crank Signal e Ignition Signal disconnected after the car initially starts or can he connect it back thereafter...sorry im an EMu dummy...but i want to help him...also, does he need to run a ground to the fuel pump from EMU like on MS?

thanks all
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:31 PM   #9
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ok checked the parameters tried to start it again but it would not. tried cutting the crank signal wire and same result did not start. i did 2 log files and as soon as i figure out how to post them i will do that. Maybe Joe Perez can take a look at them and see if anything is missing.
the LOG files can be downloaded at
http://www.mediafire.com/?92tyyyftttm First log
http://www.mediafire.com/?8byjljmxjst second log
http://www.mediafire.com/?4es4rbzfaym Parameter settings

Last edited by musanovic; 09-24-2007 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 09-24-2007, 05:11 PM   #10
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Disconnect the Crank angle signal AND the Cam angle signal. (and keep them disconnected for ever, you can't use them)

If you use a grinded clip you can open the connector C, lift the small plastic wing and pull away the pins without cutting the wires.
They are the pin 33 and 39 on connector C.

Use this jumper settings:
jp1 open
jp2 open
jp3 open
jp4 open
jp5 open
jp6 open
jp7 1-2
jp8 1-2
jp9 1-2
jp10 2-3
jp11 open
jp12 open
jp13 open
jp14 open
jp15 1-2
jp16 open
jp17 1-2
jp18 open
jp19 1-2
jp20 1-2

And remember to look carefully at the jumper 15 on the BOARD (not the manual, it's in reverse!)

I checked your .em2 file, it's ok, but try switching off all the maps for the first start and use the BP-VE engine.
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:35 PM   #11
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Talking Great Success

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhoexp View Post
Disconnect the Crank angle signal AND the Cam angle signal. (and keep them disconnected for ever, you can't use them)

If you use a grinded clip you can open the connector C, lift the small plastic wing and pull away the pins without cutting the wires.
They are the pin 33 and 39 on connector C.

Use this jumper settings:
jp1 open
jp2 open
jp3 open
jp4 open
jp5 open
jp6 open
jp7 1-2
jp8 1-2
jp9 1-2
jp10 2-3
jp11 open
jp12 open
jp13 open
jp14 open
jp15 1-2
jp16 open
jp17 1-2
jp18 open
jp19 1-2
jp20 1-2

And remember to look carefully at the jumper 15 on the BOARD (not the manual, it's in reverse!)

I checked your .em2 file, it's ok, but try switching off all the maps for the first start and use the BP-VE engine.

Hello there and an update.
The damn car starts now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you have no idea how happy i am thanks to all of you and especially my new best friend JHOEXP. thank you so much it is appreciated When you come to the US we are getting Drunk.
only problem that i have now is the check engine light is on with a po327 code (Knock sensor 1 circuit low input bank 1 or sensor 1) maybe someone knows how to fix that sucker. When i ordered my harness i asked for intake temp input and Knock sensor input. maybe i just need to change the properties is it resonant or non resonant? Also i took the car for a drive and it drives great. only thing is a minor hesitation on low RPM I will make a LOG file when driving it for you to see, maybe it needs some minor adjustments but i will keep you all updated the car is on its way to be boosted now.
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Old 09-25-2007, 03:32 AM   #12
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Glad that you solved!
I am planning a trip in US (for real, maybe next spring)!!
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:41 PM   #13
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if you have the water temp hooked up to the EMU (which i recommend so you can use autotune) then you need to set the jumper settings to JP14 - 1-2 the instructions i supposed are reversed, and the JP13 controls the air intake, while the JP14 deals with the water temp. if you dont have JP14 hooked, you could overheat your car due to the fans not turning on, and youll have a more serious problem at hand with damaging your motor.
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badboy88000 View Post
if you have the water temp hooked up to the EMU (which i recommend so you can use autotune) then you need to set the jumper settings to JP14 - 1-2
You sure about that? the 1-2 setting (on both JP13 and 14) applies a pullup voltage to the line in question. If the fans are being controlled by the stock ECU, and the temp sensor is still connected to the stock ECU, applying an additional pullup would incorrectly bias the sensor.

Or does the BS harness re-route the fan wire(s) to the EMU instead of the ECU? I've never seen one.
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Old 09-27-2007, 08:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
You sure about that? the 1-2 setting (on both JP13 and 14) applies a pullup voltage to the line in question. If the fans are being controlled by the stock ECU, and the temp sensor is still connected to the stock ECU, applying an additional pullup would incorrectly bias the sensor.

Or does the BS harness re-route the fan wire(s) to the EMU instead of the ECU? I've never seen one.
i did have the car idling and fans work fine. no overheating problem here. i drove it as well and everything works fine. the harness taps into the ecu wires and does not rerout. i found it funny reading the reply at first, BS harness i kinda thought you meant Bull **** harness, funny.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
You sure about that? the 1-2 setting (on both JP13 and 14) applies a pullup voltage to the line in question. If the fans are being controlled by the stock ECU, and the temp sensor is still connected to the stock ECU, applying an additional pullup would incorrectly bias the sensor.

Or does the BS harness re-route the fan wire(s) to the EMU instead of the ECU? I've never seen one.
Keep in mind these are mainly NB miatas. If i could only get some input from RusMan, jpquillio, and other people who had the same problem too.

i am dead on for sure. i almost overheated when i followed the directions in the manual. i had to turn on my AC for my fans to come on to prevent me from overheating.

even though it "pullup" connects, it sends a wrong voltage signal to the ECU, making it not read correctly and switch the fans on. I have not done this personally, but someone else on the yahoo emanage group has, and has verified the problem for NB miatas, particularly the 1999 miatas. I thought it was just to leave the jumpers both open, and they still didnt work; again almost overheated. I researched more around, finally found the post somewhere regarding this problem. so i followed along and jumped JP14, and voila! they worked.

the fans are still connected to the ECU if youre wondering.
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:22 PM   #17
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I'm struggling here. Please help me to understand how the BS harness is wired in this regard.

The Red/Blue wire that normally connects the CLT temp sensor to the ECU at pin 2E. Is is passed straight through to the ECU, is tee-spliced out to the EMU at pin 32, or is it something else??


The Red/Green which that connects the cooling fan relay to the ECU at pin 1R, what happens to that one? Is it passed straight to the ECU, or does it go to EMU? If so, where?
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Old 09-28-2007, 04:28 PM   #18
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the red/blue is t-spliced.

the cooing fan relay wire goes through to the ECU.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:13 PM   #19
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Then this just doesn't make sense.

The ECU is in control of the fan. And the ECU is connected to the CLT sensor.

Attaching the EMU in parallel with the CLT line should have no effect upon the ECUs ability to read the CLT sensor, so long as the EMU is not applying a bias to the line, either a pullup or a pulldown. That would require JP13 or 14 (depending upon whether you believe the manual or not) to be open.

Setting the jumper to pullup should cause the ECU to be unable to accurately read the CLT sensor and thus not trigger the fans, but as I understand it the exact opposite situation is being described.
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Old 09-29-2007, 05:26 AM   #20
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it got me confused too. i didnt do a pull up on either one, and the fan still didnt work. only when i jumpered JP14 did the fans function correctly.
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