Roda

I'm starting a K swap on my track NA, and I'm at the point where I need to pick an ECU. At this point the main contenders are Haltech 1500 Elite and Link G4x ExtremeX. I have zero experience with either, but the tuner I'm planning to use is good with either, with a slight preference for Link. The car is a very nearly track only car, no need for street stuff like cruise control. It will be rewired from scratch an Aim PDM32. For the short term, no ABS, TCS or forced induction, but future expansion is always a possibility.

I'm leaning towards the Link at this point, but looking for folks with recent experience with either/both brand(s). Reliability and user support are high priorities. I've found a couple of threads here, and it seems like Link has come a long way from the old FM turbo days...

Thoughts?

curly

iTrader: (25)

First, keep in mind the Link is "linked" to the old FM turbo Link in name only. Beyond that, it is it's own hardware and software, and in my personal experience, is a much better option than an MS3. I've tuned one Haltech on a K-swapped BRZ and it was more than capable for what I needed it to do, although I found the interface slightly more difficult to use. That being said, my experience is probably about a hundred Megasquirts, a dozen Links, and that single Haltech, so I'm sure if I spent more time with it, It would make a little more sense. Just like you'll find if you go from TS to PCLink, every ECU software package operates just differently enough to be a bit frustrating at first.

Both have more channels in their AIM protocol than is even allowed in RS3, and both have fabulous customer support. Link through their forum, and I believe Haltech is great on the phone. If it were me but without any experience, I'd choose the ECU my tuner is more comfortable with.

Roda

Thanks, Curly, I was hoping you'd chime in. That expands on a couple comments you made in the other thread I found, and is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

Talking to my tuner a few days ago, he recommended Haltech if you wanted something simple that worked. They have plenty of can-bus add-ons (wideband/ pdm, dash, keypad, etc). If you want a more versatile and less limited option, Link is the better choice.

Me personally, I went with a Haltech.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Do you already have the Aim PDM32?

I am in the process of installing a Nexus R5 in my miata now. Looking into the R3 or R5 might not be a bad idea if you were already going the PDM route.

If you want to go the 1500 route shoot me a message, I have my old one that I would be willing to sell.

Roda

PDM32 and dash are inbound. I wanted to go with Aim for the data/display/video integration.

Ongoing talks with my tuner have me leaning Link right now, but I'll shoot you a PM if that changes. Thanks!

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

I have to Haltech on my K-swap and while it’s brilliant, it has some limits. I’m already maxed out on inputs to the ECU. There’s very little you can do with CAN bus - you can’t take messages from OE sensors for example and use them in the ECU.

I will say that their support is phenomenal - I’ve called them twice, gotten a real human, and had my problem solved quickly.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Fwiw I’m almost done with my k swap and I made the odd choice to stay with my existing megasquirt ms3Basic
i have the k24z3 which is 60-2. Crank trigger and only VVT on the intake cam so slightly simpler than the k24A’s. I modified the cam trigger plate to be single tooth. In theory this will all work, lol. I will say that I’m a bit bummed about a very small VVT table, and no drive by wire. If I was buying a new ECU for a k it would have been haltech

L337TurboZ

iTrader: (1)

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There is a company that makes a CAN Bus DBW kit for MS systems. Basically converts the dual APP sensors and TPs sensors to a single TPS signal for MS to operate. They claim to have redundant fail safe to prevent throttle sticking open etc.