By any chance do you have a MapDaddy sensor installed and it is setup for a normal one or vise-versa?

im not sure what sensor is installed, i ordered the MS1 v2.2 kit from DIYAutotune then sent it to brain to be assembled.

i cant find any settings for the map sensor except under properties, then its just asking me to select from the drop down menu. how would i check if my volts>map is set up properly?

well the reading off you rMS seems to match your gauge... that's just incredibly low vacuum at idle. you should be pulling closer to 18-20~hg (29-33kPa)

could i be idling at a higher atmospheric pressure because my turbo is so small, its actually raising my manifold pressure slightly? the compressor blades are spinning during idle.

no.

so if it is just a fixed error, can i have the dyno shop just tune it for what it thinks the map reading is? as long as its always reading the same wrong map pressure it should be fine if he tunes it for that right?

you are running TS correct? can you post your project properties?

ill look at your datalog and msq when im home.

pic of intake manifold in engine bay?

pics below

also, if it means anything, with car off, barometer and map are both reading 97. not sure where it gets a barometer reading from tho..

I would try removing the PCV on the manifold, plugging the barb on the intake manifold and see if it changes where it idles at

what did you have in mind tech?

reread post above, also barometer is read from pressure sensor.

you originally said "nevermind". want me to give it a try or no?

remove the PCV on the manifold, plugging the barb on the intake manifold and see if it changes where it idles at.

it was idling like shit, i think because it cooled off since i played with the idle fuel cells but it was around 70 kpa

did you make sure to plug the barb on the intake manifold after removing the hose going to the valve cover?

yup. i had my brother hold his thumb over it

this shouldnt have anything to do with my IACV pulling from atmosphere, rather than a tube tied into the intercooler piping would it?

ok

Try pulling the IACV connector off while the car is off, turn the car on and see if still idles at 60kpa~

2nd thing, have you ever messed with the idle screw?

i have not messed with the idle screw. i assumed it was MS controlled so i didnt wanna tamper with any physical components.

so remove iacv and hose, run manifold plugged and valve cover with open hole? ill give it a try after i get it to idle smoother by adjusting idle screw.

tried combinations of removing iacv hose, pcv valve, and regardless its idling at about 80kpa now idling at 800 rpm. rough as fuck

are you running on 2 cylinders or something...?

there is no reading necessary lol. you buy it, you run it , you haz good afr. :idea:

good thought,

Check each spark plug wire with the timing gun and make sure all flash off the light.

I'm at the dyno now. My plugs were bad but also the maps were pretty off. We got it to do a few full pulls but the whole curve is a rough choppy curve. It doesn't break up at 4k like it was before. I think it was a mix of bad plugs, and a wonky o2 sensor that fucked up my tune worse when I autotuned.

First pull with bad plugs was 57 haha

Thanks for all the help though everyone.

Keep us updated. Once you get the crap straightened out it'll all come together and be worth the hassle. If it's on the dyno they should figure out that you need to advance timing a good bit, if not, check out this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/dyno-tuning-take-look-fm-we-want-your-timingz-18648/ There's a ton of information on timing and it should give you a decent idea what kind of advance you can run to pick up some massive power and still keep it safe.

what about idle?

Idle was just way lean apparently. Around 15 on the fuel table

They got it up to 115 now from the 57 but aren't sure how far to push the timing. I feel like I should be around 150ish ...
I'll look at that link thanks

Also I wondering if my base timing is off. My
Trigger angle is around 83 from what I have read it's norm closer to 65? Just in case I'm a total idiot, timing mark is just a notch on the outer edge of the crank pulley right?

Did you lock the timing at 10 before you set it?

We just double checked the base timing. Apparently I'm an idiot. There was another ding in my crank pulley I was looking at. We just fixed the base timing and are doing another pull. Will keep y'all updated

like I said earlier you should of double check timing, something is wrong to be idling around 60kpa. Waste of money to tune without making sure your equipment is running where it should be.

173.52 fuck yes

I'll upload my dyno maps later

I'm about to go have me some fun haha

In for part out after engine esplode.

I mean.. good luck have fun.

Not funny frt...

173 at what KPA?

I was just thinking you have units of measurement at psi, have you tried using kpa instead to see if it changes the scale?

No that meant "175 hp".

We got everything figured out. It was a combo of bad plugs, base timing was way off, and autotune messed everything up cuz my o2 was acting up

What do yall think of my timing map? Fuel looks good, Afr is around 14 at cruise, 11-12 under hard accel. Only think I'll mess with is my idle tune is around 12 afr

I know what you meant.

I meant what KPA did you make 175hp at.

A customer had me drive up to Sonoma to tune a Rotrex car about 2 months ago. He fired it up when I arrived, and it sounded like it had a set of 270+ duration cams. I commented on the cams, and he said that it was a stock '99 valvetrain and stock '99 cams. Idle was ~55kpa. I fiddled with it a bit, played with the fuel map, checked and re-checked the timing, but could never get it down into the 30s.

We decided to do a quick test to ensure it was firing on all 4 cylinders. Pulled the #2 spark plug wire, and sure enough, there was very little change in the sound of the motor.

Compression: 160-110-100-160.

A rebuilt head and 2 months later, it made 232whp at 9.5psi. Idles at 27kpa.

What kind of stupid, irresponsible "tuner" actually completes a full dyno pull with a car making 57whp? And then tells the customer "I'm not sure how far to advance the timing"??? I'll never cease to be amazed that people like this get paid to "tune" cars.

It was 9-10 psi so like 160-170ish kpa
I think what he meant by that was 'I can't think of why it's making so little power, I have gone as far with the timing as I feel comfortable'

Keep in mind the first pull of 57 was with burnt
Plugs. One we replied the plugs it was at 101 with a super rough tune, then 115 with corrected tables. Then once we realized I was retarded we fixed the base
Timing and got 175.

how do you kow it was 9-10 psi, I'm asking where on the ECUs LOAD was it at. Where on the fuel ve table was the highest point seen by the map sensor.


is the car still idling at 60kpa?

the boost level was read from the dyno tuners sensor t'd into my vac lines.
im dumb and didnt think to have them take a datalog on TS of the last pull, ill have to log one on a highway pull sometime and check where I am idling at later today.

Don't have a scanner?

Need a bigger pic
Want to see the start of that dyno pic

is this one any better?

About 1000x better. lol

tune?

Idles around 30kpa with a cold engine

good numbers!

thanks!
also, thanks for all the MS help along the way. I really appreciate it.

Wow that's a lot of timing in the 180 row. Good for you. I actually had very similar numbers to that from my tuner, but I ended up backing it off. Interesting

Keep in mind I'm not actually hitting that high up on my map though. I'm only at 8ish psi