GVE in the datalog shows 38 the whole time, anytime you mess with, change "ANY" setting, DATALOG! If changing the fuel VE talble did not change or alter fueling at all something is wrong.

Did you you burn the settings after changing them to see if would change after being burnt in?

i changed the values in the four cells around idle, and clicked burn. i lowered as much as 10 in all of them and it didnt change much. i just autotuned at idle tho and it changed them to around 19-25 so i guess i just hadnt changed them enough. i wasnt sure what a reasonable step size was to test.

also just to clarify, check my afr target table, 14.7 around idle and low kpa, then decreasing to 12 in high rpm, high boost, then just click autotune and drive around?

when im autotuning, is it temporarily running off the autotune maps, then if i dont say burn, it will just go back to how the ecu was running before?

yes, just make sure your wideband is attached, working and reading correctly. Accuracy of autotune depends on it.

just sitting here idling, ms says my AFR is fluctuating from 13-15 while my gauge is reading right around 14. is MS just overly sensitive? the MS AFR needle bounces around alot more than my analog gauge does

and not sure if it matters but to get the correct display in my dashboard, i have to look at "air:fuel ratio2" as the "air:fuel ratio" doesnt display anything..it just sits at 9.0

Whats your map read at idle

57-58kpa

i went and autotuned it, when it started sputtering i tried to push through it so autotune could correct it but it didnt seem to help too much.

Don't ever push though, in that area how much fuel is getting there?
Check your logs

high 50s is not correct for a good idle area on a normal turbo 1.6,l should be around low 30s. Check for vacuum leaks.

it leaned me out in high rpm, starting to boost, and richened me up in low rpm low pressure?

that seems backwards...

is not right. major issues going on with your install.

1. youre fueling a constant value.
2. you should be idling around 30kPa
3. your MS is not reading your o2 input correctly.

its not backwards, it depends on what you are trying to hit AFR wise in those areas, obviously you should look at your datalogs to see what the afr was when you went into those areas to tell whats going on.

Personally I would stop worrying about the tune and figure out why its idling around 60kpa, do you have a boost gauge hooked up that shows vacuum as well? what does the boost gauge say at idle?

the boost gauge is reading around 8 in vacuum, whatever that is like InHg or something? but also its a crappy analog gauge that only reads around 4 psi when MS is telling me ~8

brain, problem with install of software? or install of the unit? i have vacuum line from fpr to MS and T'd to the analog gauge. everything else (wiring harness and unit internals) you did. I soldered the pink wire to the spot you told me to through pms, and hooked the output 2 from my lc1 to the stock wiring in the engine bay (i realize i could have just hooked the lc1 output directly to the pink wire but i wanted it to be as easy as possible to revert to stock if something went wrong so i could keep driving it for the time being)

I might just get it dyno tuned professionally, because then they would be using their own o2 sensor etc

after so much money invested i dont want to end up blowing my engine because one of my sensors might be faulty

what does the boost guage read when you have the car off?
What does the ecu MAP sensor read with power on, but car not running.

I think you have a issue with the map sensor on the ecu, 8in hg is around 27kpa.

car off=analog boost gauge reads= 3 InHg
(its a cheap shitty gauge, it sticks something awful)
car on/not running ecu map sensor=97kpa

ok so its 97kpa, check local weather report to see what current pressure\barometer is to verify what it probably should be around

If you know it's a cheap, shitty gauge, why did you install it? Buy a decent gauge so we can actually help you.

I would check for vacuum leaks. Idle should be 18-20 on the gauge and ~30's on MS. Also, take the glass of the shitty gauge and make the needle point to Zero when not in use.

I didnt know it was going to be so shitty til i installed it and saw it performed shitty.
ill take it apart and try correcting it

current conditions are 30.19 InHg or 102.23 kpa
is that an acceptable error? only lines hooked up are from fpr tee to a tee under my dash which feeds MS and boost gauge. they all sound/look fine with no leaks. would it read higher if i had a vac leak somewhere else? like going to my BOV or brake booster or something i havent tampered with?

102kpa in your area and it reads 97kpa, seems wrong. if it is a 2.5 bar sensor may need to make sure the configuration is set to 2.5 bar in the ecu properly aka voltage to map

Whenever I check my local conditions and my map its very close

i removed and plugged the line that was feeding my shitty boostgauge to eleiminate that crappy plastic hosing that comes with it as a source of leak, and removed my bov vac line incase that caused a leak, and looped the two vac sources at the throttle body with vac line so they are sealed. only vac line now is from a tee between my fpr, which is all new vac hose, and goes stright to the back of my ms. still says ~58 kpa



how would i go about checking the volt=>map settings?