ECUs and Tuning Discuss Engine Management, Tuning, & Programming

First start faults

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Old 11-26-2019, 10:44 AM
  #1  
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Default First start faults

Ok folks, first I'll just list the specs of my motor before I list the issues.
-92' Miata 1.6L bored over .100
- Built bottom end ( Manley rods, Supertech pistons with 8.5:1, Weisco xx rings)
- Crank was rebalanced with new bearings
- DW 1000 cc injectors unfortunately with stock rail
- DW 340 L/HR pump
- Boundary Oil Pump
- Garrett gt2252 with DIY intercooler piping with a FAB9 350 hp Intercooler
- ATI Super damper
- Stock valvetrain, just refurbished
- UPP Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, BTW INSANE WORK
- MS3PRO PNP with basemap from DIYAUTOTUNE, 1.3.4 firmware, gm IAT
- Innovate MTX-L Wideband
- NGK spark plugs, can't remember which ones but I know they have a heat rating of 6 or 7, gapped to .44, newish wires, and stock coil pack.
- 93 octane
- Gates water pump and completely new front end including Timing Belt, Tensioner, and Idler.

There are multiple issue with the car listed below, any help would be greatly appreciated

The Cranking time is a little long and when it does catch, it struggles hard. At this point oil pressure and AFR's are all that I care about. Oil pressure is good !!! AFR'S however are not so good, as in 19-22 range at idle. So at this point I check the required fuel and it is set to 2.9 (which is what it works out to using the equation 230/1000 x 12.5= 2.875). From what I have read, an afr this lean is hard to tune out if the required fuel is not set perfectly. After this I go and check my injectors and it turns out they are 927 cc at least I think. I am not sure how the Injectors are labeled and I don't want to put the new required fuel ratio in because I am worried about it flooding. Also, I am pretty certain it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders. In order for it to run by itself for more than 10 seconds, it need to be on fixed timing at 10 degrees and it'll idle for a brief moment but very roughly. My thinking on this would be that it is ignition related. So I checked spark plugs and they were gapped to .44 which I have heard is good. The wires are pretty new so that leads me to believe that the coil pack is bad. The third problem I have is that the TPS doesn't respond. I am aware that in the 89 to 93 cars, this is just a switch so I don't know how this could be an issue but never the less, I don't receive any signal from it whatsoever. Also I forgot to add that when I set it to use table under ignition settings, it barely catches and then when it does, it shoots up to around 3k and then stalls out after about 3 seconds.


So basically I have four questions
-Does anybody know how DW injectors are labeled and does anyone know why I might be running so lean?
- How badly do the 89-93 coilpacks break?
- Does the 89-93 TPS play a role in all of this mess even if its just a switch for full throttle and idle?
- And from what I have read, .44 gap on Miata spark plugs are fine but does anyone else have any recommendations?

Thanks everyone SOOOOOO MUCH!!!
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Old 04-07-2020, 02:29 AM
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1. Does your injectors wiring is stock ? Are you aware it is batch injection ? (injectors firing in pairs) what is the ECU injection configuration ?
2. You should run tests for the injectors and the coils and see if all is firing and all is configured and firing in the correct order.
3. TPS should work as a switch but you should change it to VTPS asap. and yes with no tps signal the ecu does not know when idle is. (idle terms will never meet)
4. Gap'm .25-.35

If you need more help you can contact me elior77@gmail.com and send your msq.

Cheers !
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