harbor freight det can
07-06-2013, 07:20 PM
#22
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cromwell, Connecticut
Posts: 2,605
Total Cats: 16
I will have to watch the video and see what resistor the guy called for. Just go to radioshack and find a potentiometer (AKA "POT") that will work for that range. I might not put it back in the original case...I may just put it in some kind of radio shack project enclosure. Who knows.
Reply
0
0
07-12-2013, 09:35 AM
#25
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,611
Total Cats: 567
Got my stethoscope in, will now be looking for a sheilded audio cable and some resistors or a "POT" as discussed above.
This stethoscope tool is pretty neat on its own though, gotta love HF.
This stethoscope tool is pretty neat on its own though, gotta love HF.
Reply
0
0
09-01-2013, 11:29 PM
#34
OK, I guess somebody's gotta be first. Just finished mine a few minutes ago.
Popped the case, it looks like this:
Removed the screws.
Here's the front.
And the back.
A close up of the resistor.
After pics. I used a shielded cable made for playstation, more internal stuff than I needed, but it was laying around. In this case each wire got it's own shielding and the outer shielding was tied into the negative terminal on the battery. I found there was a like a 60hz hum that was there until I added the resistor. I went out and bought a 33 ohm resistor and compared it to some other resistors I had laying around. On the bench, I like the sound best of a 33K ohm instead. It may be different on the car, but there are two audio controls. One on the unit and one in line on the headphones. (sorry, hot glue got a little messy)
This is the Bosch sensor I used. It's on Volvo and Saab turbo's. You can also use the cable that came with it. I would bet it's shielded.
The bolt on the block was larger than the hole in the sensor, so I welded a stud to the bolt so it would work.
I'll start it tomorrow and see how it sounds.
Cheers,
-JB
Popped the case, it looks like this:
Removed the screws.
Here's the front.
And the back.
A close up of the resistor.
After pics. I used a shielded cable made for playstation, more internal stuff than I needed, but it was laying around. In this case each wire got it's own shielding and the outer shielding was tied into the negative terminal on the battery. I found there was a like a 60hz hum that was there until I added the resistor. I went out and bought a 33 ohm resistor and compared it to some other resistors I had laying around. On the bench, I like the sound best of a 33K ohm instead. It may be different on the car, but there are two audio controls. One on the unit and one in line on the headphones. (sorry, hot glue got a little messy)
This is the Bosch sensor I used. It's on Volvo and Saab turbo's. You can also use the cable that came with it. I would bet it's shielded.
The bolt on the block was larger than the hole in the sensor, so I welded a stud to the bolt so it would work.
I'll start it tomorrow and see how it sounds.
Cheers,
-JB
Last edited by 2manyhobyz; 09-01-2013 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Typo
Reply
2
2
