Has anyone installed the Innovate MTX-L wideband yet?
#1
Has anyone installed the Innovate MTX-L wideband yet?
I just got the new MTX-L, but since its configured a bit differently I'm trying to figure out how to install it. Has anyone installed one permanently in a NA NON-track only miata?
I'd like to get it done over the holiday. The wiring looks even more simple than the LC-1, but I can't figure how to safely mount the thing without drilling holes in my car.
I'd like to get it done over the holiday. The wiring looks even more simple than the LC-1, but I can't figure how to safely mount the thing without drilling holes in my car.
#7
The guys at Innovate said it was a much cleaner install. They also said it would go much faster. I think it took me more time it remove the LC-1 than it did to install of the MTX-L. It mounted in the same spot below the radio. I wasn't able to connect to it via the data cable, but the Mega squirter saw it immediately. I'll give the guys at Innovate a call next week to see what I missed, but overall the MTX-L rocks. It is faster, it give errors with out and led, and digital. I love this thing. Oh and it cost less than the LC-1 and my DB gauge originally did.
#10
Anyone have a clue what to try when the MTX-L goes completely black (it looks like it have died).
It get 12V all the way into the gauge but still nothing (not even a faint error code). There is not much in there that you could analyze, fuse or similar simple stuff.
Typically I have the new engine in and really need to tune before the race on friday.
it runs fat (the MTX-L was working all the way until the engine got warm, died just when it was going to get used...).
Getting a new one before Thursday seems unlikley (and a visit to a tuner was not planned now).
It get 12V all the way into the gauge but still nothing (not even a faint error code). There is not much in there that you could analyze, fuse or similar simple stuff.
Typically I have the new engine in and really need to tune before the race on friday.
it runs fat (the MTX-L was working all the way until the engine got warm, died just when it was going to get used...).
Getting a new one before Thursday seems unlikley (and a visit to a tuner was not planned now).
#11
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No idea. I have one in a box to replace my LC-1. can you measure the voltage of the outputs (yellow or Brown) to see if it's functioning. Did you ground the White wire?
I've had a NB gauge in my car running off my LC-1 before, the lights don't dance unless your tune sucks.
I've had a NB gauge in my car running off my LC-1 before, the lights don't dance unless your tune sucks.
Last edited by Braineack; 07-18-2011 at 12:18 PM.
#12
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Anyone have a clue what to try when the MTX-L goes completely black (it looks like it have died).
It get 12V all the way into the gauge but still nothing (not even a faint error code). There is not much in there that you could analyze, fuse or similar simple stuff.
Typically I have the new engine in and really need to tune before the race on friday.
it runs fat (the MTX-L was working all the way until the engine got warm, died just when it was going to get used...).
Getting a new one before Thursday seems unlikley (and a visit to a tuner was not planned now).
It get 12V all the way into the gauge but still nothing (not even a faint error code). There is not much in there that you could analyze, fuse or similar simple stuff.
Typically I have the new engine in and really need to tune before the race on friday.
it runs fat (the MTX-L was working all the way until the engine got warm, died just when it was going to get used...).
Getting a new one before Thursday seems unlikley (and a visit to a tuner was not planned now).
#14
No idea. I have one in a box to replace my LC-1. can you measure the voltage of the outputs (yellow or Brown) to see if it's functioning. Did you ground the White wire?
I've had a NB gauge in my car running off my LC-1 before, the lights don't dance unless your tune sucks.
I've had a NB gauge in my car running off my LC-1 before, the lights don't dance unless your tune sucks.
It still had 12.2V (key in radio mode, power from back of the lighter socket) or 14.2V (wen running) and true ground on black+white. The yellow and brown wires were both 0V over ground.
#18
Hmm, I killed a second one, but now I think I know the reason.
Poor ground to the engine (the flimsy braided thing between the dip-stock and below the brake MS was not properly torqued down) have made the voltage drop at high rpm/loads and killed the MTX-L.
I'm not 100% sure but since the MS have been rebooting (probably due to poor ground since that problem when away when I cleaned the ground points and torqued it down properly), I guess the MTX-L have died for the same reason you should not have it on during cranking. But it's speced at 8-18V, could a rebooting MS indicate a voltage as low as 8V?
A relay that turn things off below 12V seems to be the next thing I need... (some (if not all) lessons are learned the hard way... And learning from others don't work that well for me :( )
Poor ground to the engine (the flimsy braided thing between the dip-stock and below the brake MS was not properly torqued down) have made the voltage drop at high rpm/loads and killed the MTX-L.
I'm not 100% sure but since the MS have been rebooting (probably due to poor ground since that problem when away when I cleaned the ground points and torqued it down properly), I guess the MTX-L have died for the same reason you should not have it on during cranking. But it's speced at 8-18V, could a rebooting MS indicate a voltage as low as 8V?
A relay that turn things off below 12V seems to be the next thing I need... (some (if not all) lessons are learned the hard way... And learning from others don't work that well for me :( )