Turn the unit on with no sensor attached for at least 5 seconds?
ground the black calibration wire for 3 seconds?
Use LM Programmer and push the "reset calibration" button?

I honestly wouldn't do it without using the Logworks software to see what the controller is up to. It will display the progress of the calibration, and then you can know when to put the sensor back in the exhaust for the heater calibration.

 

Oh neato, thanks!

 

Back when my turbo seals were leaking into the exhaust I started getting really messed up LC1 readings. I pulled the wb and it was covered in soot/carbon etc. While the sensor was out, I wiped it off with a rag that I sprayed some brake clean on and then did the re-cal, it made a world of difference!

I eventually replaced the sensor with a new one after I rebuilt the turbo because I wanted everything as accurate as possible. Innovate recommends re-cal on a turbo car every 3 months.

 

This is a good point. I have the cable to hook the laptop up to the controller. I was going to just press the button I have hooked up and watch the LED, but if you say the thing lets you calibrate in the software and tells what is going on I will hook that up and use that.

 

It's been a long time, but when logger is running, it will display the controller status and any error codes.

so while the free-air is running, it will display "free air" or something and then a progress like 50% instead of just watching a blinking light.

I dunno, rtml?

 

I recalibrated the sensor. In my case the thing was giving some odd readings at times so I think it was a good thing to recalibrate. The readings are more consistent now and do not fluctuate as much, but now it's showing that I'm running leaner than I thought I was when I'm in boost so it's probably even better that I ran the calibration. It had been a long *** time since I ran the calibration.

 

Did you use the "unplug and monitor with laptop" method?

 

I don't know if I was using the software right, but it didn't seem to indicate it was recalibrating when I used the software so I ended up using the button I had put into place.

 

Well dammit. I don't have the button.

 

do you have access to the wiring? just ground the black wire, that's all the momentary button does.

 

I'll **** with it this weekend i suppose.

 

If you have the LC-1 and the XD-16 gauge, you can remove the sensor from the pipe, press and hold the button on the gauge for the requisite number of seconds and, blammo, it recalibrates itself.

 

All I did was hold the button down for 30 seconds and release.

 

I use the Auto Timer display, because round guages without actual needles make me twitch uncontrollably, and i hate wideband gauges with needles.

 

Great. I just went out to do some street tuning and during the middle of the run the LC1 just pegged itself at 8.1 and the light started blinking 8 times repeating over and over. Apparently this is error code 8 which means the sensor is busted.

Fantastic.

Good thing I recalibrated it.

 

no. it means heater error. did you perform the heater test with the sensor installed in the pipe? it needs to be, else it can overheat...

 

The manual specifies two options for #8 which is Sensor Timing error (typically a damaged sensor), heater error where the sensor is overheating or the sensor is bad.

So you think the calibration I did messed the heater calibration up? Because the sensor never got disconnected from the controller, so it shouldn't need heater calibration again. All I did was remove the sensor from the pipe and perform the free air calibration.

 

What i'm learning here is that i should never ever ever calibrate my LC-1.

 

it performs a heater calibration after a free-air, IIRC, so it's possible it did it when the sensor was out.

I'd pull the sensor and have it do a heater calibration as outlined in the manual.

doing the heater calibrating outside the pipes will alter the time it takes for the sensor to reach temps compared to when installed, so it can mess up the readings and throw an error 8.

otherwise, error 8 codes almost always happen if the sensor is installed too close to the turbo without a heatsink. Where is yours located and has the setup changed recently?

 

Did you have the ignition off before you removed the sensor from the exhaust? When the key is on the heater element will automatically attempt to heat up and reach a certain temp which is impossible in free air, it may have burned it self out? Download the lc1 manual and follow the instructions step by step...try again.