Is ms w/wonky wideband dangerous?
 

The crap wideband lc1 I have keeps loosing its calibration and I am needing to recalibrate it often. I thought maybe I fixed it but still is giving me issues. I read that auto tune requires the wide band. Now I just started wondering, if at some point when i'm driving the car, if the wideband goes wonky, can it hurt my motor because ms tries to compensate?

How do you know the LC1 is losing its calibration?

If you're allowing an inaccurate wideband to autotune your car you could definitely blow it up.

If you've already got a solid tune and you're not actively autotuning the car, then your probably ok. Depending on how severe and frequent the loss of calibration you probably want to decrease the EGO correction limits or turn EGO off completely so it won't throw the tune off when you're in closed loop.

I don't know the terminology but all of a sudden the afrs jump around and maxs out at bottom and top and blinks 7.4. Then after I redue the free air calibration it seems to work perfectly. It looses calibration randomly when off and when running. I Guess I can try to run a separate line from the battery with a relay.

I was planning to install my msp today so I was planning to use autotune. The msp does come with a base tune so I can still hook it up and get the base timing set up. Shouod I hook up the wideband and just disable it like you said? It's a innovate btw

Have you fixed your wideband install or is it still chucked in there with a dozen butt connectors?

its either a bad install or the sensor is dead.

Could be both, but i'm 99% sure that the install is bad. It looks bad. He should feel bad.

I cleaned it up a little bit and relocated the unit to under the radio area but yes, I still have the butt lines. But I'm getting good voltage.. My electrician friend who also has a wideband said it should be fine and that the 12v is solid and that adding a line from the battery is a unneeded complexity. :dunno:

I'm guessing your electrician friend wires houses? Your wiring sucks big time... Why not do a proper wiring job then ask.

Your's for reference

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427226971

It's ugly yes, but is my racer friend wrong when he says the butt connectors are sufficient? Is he also wrong about using the snap in wire taps? I used the snap wire tap things to power from the cigarette lighter.

Just to clarify... you're using "vamp clamps" to power your wideband from the cigarette lighter?

Then get your racer friend to fix it and stop wasting our time. If your going to do things, do them right or expect to get butt hurt here.

And to your question #2 & 3 no they aren't. You seem to want to do things 'temporary' then ask why shit doesn't work after. Then argue with everyone about it after the fact.

The :facepalm: is strong with this one.

Your wideband will never work if you leave it wired like that. The LC-1 is highly sensitive to poor grounding, and you have it teed off the radio or something equally kludged. Did you read the directions that came with it?

A wideband controller is influenced significantly by minor differences in electricity. Butt connectors and vampire connectors can offer a greater resistance than soldering the connection. Choosing a circuit for powering the unit that will not fluctuate by having a load variation is important.

It didn't come with directions, I bought it used. And the wires were a mess when I was shipped the part.

Okay well I'll have to do a thorough rewiring. As of right now, I have the ms all hooked up and in but now the damn junker laptop is not recognizing the connection to the ms :crx: I'm setting it for narrow band for now. So now i gotta figure out the syncing problem

You are wrong, as in without a doubt wrong. If you were to complete the simple task of downloading the user manual for your wideband you would see how wrong you are.

And you are dumb as hell for what you are doing to the poor car.

That shit it terrible. Fix the ghetto spaghetti. Put the wideband on the same power supply at the ECU so you have no ground offset.

If it still acts flaky once you've fixed the half-assery then we'll go from there.

I did download various install manuals but they did not match what I had. The colors were different or had other stuff. The thing also was missing two parts. I didn't think it was going to come all fucked up. I actually found the diagram off of here. In terms of what wire is going where, it's going to the right places but yeah, ill clean it up.

raja