NA TD04 Spark map
Double check your timing with a timing light. Lock it at 10 degrees and flash the timing light at it. Wait you're telling me you made 190 horses at 12psi with 30 degrees of timing?
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wbhp? lolwut
The "new" map isn't bad. Yes I think 2.5 exhaust will help you. 3 will help you even more. Though like I said in your other thread: I think the turbo is going to be completely tapped out at 220 or so, and any more boost is going to bump your midrange but not produce much more topend gains since it will be tapering back down by redline.
Not a good idea to have the knock sensor in that location. I bet its picking up a ton of valvetrain noise. You need it on the block IMO
The "new" map isn't bad. Yes I think 2.5 exhaust will help you. 3 will help you even more. Though like I said in your other thread: I think the turbo is going to be completely tapped out at 220 or so, and any more boost is going to bump your midrange but not produce much more topend gains since it will be tapering back down by redline.
Not a good idea to have the knock sensor in that location. I bet its picking up a ton of valvetrain noise. You need it on the block IMO
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It's pretty much the same as the one everyone was belming about being too advanced, except knocked back down the 8deg that his timing was out of sync by.
If the dyno operator can't advance any further due to knock I'd say it's as good as he's going to get it.
Looking at the dyno output it looks a nice smooth output with not weird dips or drops/spikes in HP/Torque.
I don't think that's a permanent installation, merely for the Dyno operator to use/listen through. Human ears are much better at discerning knock from valvetrain noise 
P.S. US always use bhp as at the wheels, whereas in most european countries bhp is at the fly, either calculated or from a dedicated engine dyno, so to avoid any confusion the OP has preceded the 'bhp' with w to indicate wheel bhp rather than flywheel bhp
If the dyno operator can't advance any further due to knock I'd say it's as good as he's going to get it.
Looking at the dyno output it looks a nice smooth output with not weird dips or drops/spikes in HP/Torque.
Not a good idea to have the knock sensor in that location. I bet its picking up a ton of valvetrain noise. You need it on the block IMO
P.S. US always use bhp as at the wheels, whereas in most european countries bhp is at the fly, either calculated or from a dedicated engine dyno, so to avoid any confusion the OP has preceded the 'bhp' with w to indicate wheel bhp rather than flywheel bhp
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Israel
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