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Old 09-01-2015, 11:58 AM   #21
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Default It died again

Lasted just about 3 months with the heat sync. Replaced it again without the heat sync, will see how it goes this time.

Luckily Autozone has lifetime warranty on these bosch 17014's so I just swap it out for n/c...
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshgomiata View Post
To quote the LC-2 manual: "Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00 o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating element."

It looks like your sensor is lower than 3:00 o'clock.

I remember specifically emailing for them to make sure it was welded between 9 and 3 oclock... =[

I'm really glad I did.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:17 AM   #23
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Where are the mentioned instructions for making a heat sink? the previous owner of my friend's car installed the O2 sensor 6" from the turbo outlet...
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:56 AM   #24
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Something has to be wrong...

Mine is 6" from turbo outlet, been using the same sensor for 5 years with no issue. Sensor in the 12 oclock position, using an LC-1, not an MTX-L.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:01 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Something has to be wrong...<br />
<br /><br />
<br />Mine is 6" from turbo outlet, been using the same sensor for 5 years with no issue. Sensor in the 12 oclock position, using an LC-1, not an MTX-L.
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />I call bullshit, you don't have a turbo car
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:07 PM   #26
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I had a turbo car long before i had my first Miata, and i still have it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:17 PM   #27
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Fuel additives, poor grounding, oil additives, cleaners and solvents, some rtv silicones, overly high temp, overly low temp, overly rich, and a few other things can contribute to early failure, iirc.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:43 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Fuel additives, poor grounding, oil additives, cleaners and solvents, some rtv silicones, overly high temp, overly low temp, overly rich, and a few other things can contribute to early failure, iirc.
Never used additives in the fuel or oil.
Grounded MS and WB to the battery.
Haven't rtv'd anything.
Afr is 11.5 -11.8 or so in boost.
I don't have an egt setup to tell temps...
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x_25 View Post
Where are the mentioned instructions for making a heat sink? the previous owner of my friend's car installed the O2 sensor 6" from the turbo outlet...

making:

cut out a rectangle of alumn. or copper.

drill a hole in the middle.



installation:

unscrew o2.

stick through hole of heatsink.

screw back in o2.

bend edges of heatsink up 45° to catch airflow.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
making:

cut out a rectangle of alumn. or copper.

drill a hole in the middle.



installation:

unscrew o2.

stick through hole of heatsink.

screw back in o2.

bend edges of heatsink up 45° to catch airflow.
I was expecting there to be more to it then that! Thanks!

I will add it to the ever growing list of things to do to keep this car running...
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:41 PM   #31
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See my post #12
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:54 PM   #32
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The sensor I put in without a heat sync 9/1 lasted till this week. I had the rest of the exhaust finished and we put a bung at 12 oclock, allllll the way back pretty much by the diff. It's a 1" bung too so the sensor is barely in the exhaust stream now. If this doesn't last, I'm out of ideas.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:57 PM   #33
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Its the wiring of your controller.
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:58 PM   #34
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I had the same problem. When I first got mine it acted up with e8 error. Mine is naturally aspirated. Few weeks later it now works good. (Litttle rich or little lean) I had to reset it and pull it out a couple of times. Best thing is to do is go further down the exhaust pipe with a heat sinksince you have forced induction. Require some welding
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:46 PM   #35
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Guys, try reflashing the firmware.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:10 PM   #36
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Got another E8 today. Called innovate and the guy said something has to be damaging the sensors and there's no way it can be a problem with the controller because replacing the sensor fixes the problem for a little bit.

I do have one piece of info I wasn't aware of: I have the controller powered by a wire coming from the ignition switch (white/red), hot when key on obviously, but Innovate said that's not good enough and should be on its own power circuit. However, he suggested this would not cause an E8, but it should be changed.

I connected to the controller today and updated the firmware, and did a calibration so we'll see what happens...
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