$16 coolant reroute
 

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...statconfig.jpg

A simple inline solution using an OE part. It's a bmw 2002 160f thermostat for $16 delivered. All you'd need to do is install an outlet piece with a rad hose sized bung at the back of the head, then connect this tstat. It has a pre-tstat outlet for the heatercore (which would need to be stepped down to match the core at the firewall) and an outlet to go to the rad. Then just plug the OE hole at the front of the head.

"to heater core" and "from cylinder head" can be swapped - and might be better for a more direct flow :dunno:

I haven't confirmed the bung sizes but they look miata-similar. If I needed a solution, I'd risk the $16 on making it work. Confirmed the configuration/flow per this thread and pics. Is there anybody cheap enough to put $16 on the line and prove this thing (right or wrong)? :giggle:

HA. I bet that would work easily.

Rob, I'll pay you double that amount for it. How about it?

I'm finishing my engine build but my car will be back at the shop to change the oil after the first 100 kms.

I'd appreciate your assistance in getting it.

Never mind. I was able to buy it myself.

Many thanks!

I'll be asking you dumb questions :giggle:

isn't 160 a little cold for a miata?

The 180° version is:

$36 at NAPA: NAPAONLINE®

$33.50 at Autozone: AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Product Detail - Thermostat

$34.99 at Kragen: While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at CSK Auto

damnit hyper, now hard was that shit. Really?


seriously, this is just shy of revolutionary

This is the second time I've mentioned this- the first time nobody commented. :confused: I think the 160f was OE spec for the 2002 turbo, and later 4 cylinder bmws. I've found the 180f on eBay in the past and it was $25 delivered. Either way you get bmw performance, engineering and prestige. ;)

would this fit on that?

whats the bolt spacing for chevy water necks?

Summit SUM-371101 - Summit® Polished Aluminum Water Necks for Chevrolet - summitracing.com

I thought the NB (or was it NA?) tstat/mixer cap from the front bolted right up to the back of the head? I've got all these parts but don't have a B cylinder head to check on.

For the rear outlet, just get a thermostat cover from a Protege / Kia Sephia. Same orientation as the 1.6, but without the threaded hole for the thermoswitch.

m2cupcar,
Damn, you're smooth!

That's great. I haven't done mine yet.

Somebody will bust a nut over that one.

That's because we had to let it "soak" into our little minds and scratch our heads for bit. He he.....

Rob, I told you I'd have dumb questions :giggle:

Here's one:

I'm adamant about not using the heatercore; that said, what would happen if I block that outlet?

Thanks

"that outlet" must be either the "to heater core" or "from cylinder head" - then nothing will happen. "to radiator" must be used. No need for heat eh?

I'm trying to get a grasp on this reroute concept as well. I'll try to explain it as I understand the concept and if I'm wrong someone please correct me.

As I understand it the thermostat is used to direct water flow either to the radiator (if it needs to be cooled down), or back to the engine (if it is already relatively cool). If you aren't running a heatercore you would just run that hose back to the lower side of the radiator. That way when the car is cool, and thermostat is closed, you will be bypassing the radiator helping the car to warm up. Once the car is warm the thermostat will open and waterflow will be directed to the radiator to maintain a proper operating temperature.

So if you just blocked off the "to heatercore" line, there would be nowhere for water to go when the car was cool and something would have to explode, spraying coolant everywhere.

No need for heatercore hoses if you're not using heat. The tstat still lets coolant through even when shut to allow circulation when cold, therefore no explosions (unless of course you run a radiator cap and overflow can). ;)

If not using the heater core, send the "heater core" outlet of the T-stat to the mixing manifold or the lower radiator hose. Doing so will promote greater coolant circulation through the block, and thus more even heat distribution during warmup.

joe's right... as usual ;)

Along the same lines, I found out that hondas had a manually operated heater line valve that could be used here once the car has warmed up. That would send all coolant to the rad. There's got to be electric version out there too. Here's the valve install.
http://www.too-many-parts.com/rs/thu...lve_after2.jpg

it's a solenoid valve and they're everywhere. you can get a fuel tank valve used on dual tank vehicles to do exactly that. it's got a NC and an NO port and a common port... just have it switch to the mixing mani or lower hose. it's basical what a boost control solenoid does but with bigger holes.

You need water circulation near the closed thermostat so it reacts quick to the temperature changes in the engine. That's the reason in the stock configuration there is a source right in front of it (in the neck housing) flowing coolant to the water pump and when we do the coolant reroute, the heater source plumbed in the JR spacer does the same role - moves the coolant so the thermostat senses the temperature changes quicker.

What are you guys using to block off the front of the block when the thermostat is relocated to the back?

Freeze plug, 30mm I believe (might be 35mm).

--Ferdi

An aluminum plate shaped as the thermostat neck flange it replaces with a channel cut in it to accept the same rubber o-ring. Unbolt the neck, move the o-ring to the new plate, bolt it to the engine.

What Joe describes here was precisely what I was thinking about doing.

I should clarify what I've done so far. I have blocked the original outlet in the front of the engine and opened a small hole in the Thermostat I used. I was trying to get additional water flowing through it.

I also blocked the part of the mixing manifold where hot water was going back in.

As you can see, I also placed an additional thermosensor in the water line which is the one that's being read by the Autometer gauge.

Here are some pics:

If I'm understanding Rob's concept correctly, I should send the heater core outlet to the mixing manifold this time.

I should also buy a new 180 degree thermostat instead of the current 160 degree one I've been using.

BTW, when I ran my car with the configuration in the pics, my car would never overheat unless I turned the A/C on. I was never able to determine why :dunno:

p.s. to answer pdexta's post: I don't use the heater core because I read somewhere that it increases the car's coolant temp and in this weather, we never, ever use it.

Rafa, on those pics the pipe along the engine is higher than the radiator. Are you mounting some bung or valve on it so can purge air trapped in it? Or mount a cap and fill the coolant from there? Or are you removing the sensor on every fill-up? Or maybe mount all the reroute hoses at a level lower than the radiator top - i.e. like Flyin' Miata Track Dog:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/projects/O...preinstall.jpg

Shit; none of the above.

Thanks for the pic. I'll take it to the shop tomorrow morning. I'll change the placing of that pipe asap.

J_man; most people in this board know that I'm mechanically challenged. :vash:

Rafa,

Man, that water pipe is right on top of your exhaust manifold, too. That will heat the water up in an unnecessary way. Make more space and/or add a heat shield between them if you can.

You can use one of these for a filler on that high area if you need one: Radiator Hose Fillers - summitracing.com
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...me-2202_cp.jpg

But it really looks nice! Very nice colors.

Are you driving it yet?

zomg, i used both a plate and a freeze plug!

:)

Btw, for you turbo guys, isn't it easier to route on the intake side? There should be much less clutter there and no hot turbo manifold.

that's what I did. I almost regret not doing a spacerless reroute. would have been even simpler.

I took your pic to the shop this morning and while we were discussing our options I asked my mechanic to change the pipe to the intake side. He's going to try to do precisely that.

Shooter, as I stated above, I'm going to try to put the pipe on the intake side of the motor. I figure it will also use less hose.

Can you please clarify where the summit racing part would go? Sorry man, you know I'm dense.

I'll be driving it tomorrow! :)

You would only use that Summit part if your hose goes up high over the intake or exhaust manifolds. If you go under either of them, then you wouldn't need it.

It's function is to allow you to add coolant to the highest point in your system to eliminate air pockets, which is usually at your radiator cap. If you went up high with your routing like yours was in the picture, then the hose is higher than the radiator cap, and you end up with an air pocket and no water in the high part of the hose. You would then want to try to put an opening to fill the high part with water. That Summit part is made to go between two sections of hose, just like the chrome part that you have going over the exhaust manifold.

The chrome part has a temperature sensor in it? That part might be up in the air above the water level inside the pipe if you leave it that way. It would then give no reading of the water temperature. That sensor needs to be down in the water or the water needs to be up at the sensor.

The sensor might also receive a bad reading from the exhaust manifold heating the pipe.

I would try to route the water below the intake if you could. All of those problems would be solved.

But it looked pretty. I hate that you have to change it.

Good luck, buddy.

Just ordered one, so we'll see how it works in a week or so.

I appreciate you taking the time to explain that in detail. :bigtu:

I'm officially stumped. I'll be buying the part you suggested. I can't route the pipe lower on either side. I'll upload some pics in a few minutes.

BTW, the sensor in the chrome part was the one of the Autometer gauge. They just broke it at the shop.

Boy I can't wait for all the smart, inventive people here with time on their hands to decide what the ultimate reroute will be. By ultimate I mean cheap and easy to do of course!

I'd like to know how some of you thread the pipe thru the coldside. I can't find any space to do it.

The hotside is just impossible. I noticed that the pic posted by J_man shows an engine with the WG and turbo up top. You can see how mines are placed.

My only option would be to delete the power steering (I could live with that) and the A/C (I can't live without it).

Here are some pics:

So you don't think you have room to go under the intake and outside of the alternator? Either inside or outside of the intake manifold support bracket? Maybe with some bends?

Sorry about your temperature sending unit for your gauge. They are delicate devices.

Edit: Or even under the alternator? You are just going to make me go outside and climb under my car, aren't you?

Please don't go outside and climb under your car. I'll check tomorrow once they put my engine back in the car but I know for sure that it won't fit on the hotside. I'll try to take pics with the engine in the car.

Thanks shooter.

Where do you get them? Would an autoparts store have them? Is it a common size? I searched ebay and came up with nothing for 30 or 35mm. Thanks for the help.

Yes, yes.

Do you have part numbers?

No, I do not. I got mine off eBay, and I expect that a trip through ye olde' boneyard would produce several as well.

Bruce, I'll ask my mechanic what he used and get back to you.

Bruce, I just got in touch with my mechanic by phone. They had it made here in aluminum for cheap. I can have them made 5 or 6 more for real cheap but I'm going to need dimensions because mine is already plugged.

So this thread pretty much turned into the Rafa's coolant reroute thread, which is cool. But I wanna know how I would route it on mine keeping the heater core. Can we get one of those nifty diagrams showing which way the coolant flows? I know it was under another thread, but searching every thread that has coolant reroute in it might take a while.

Pretty much i wanna know exactly what parts would be needed, what has to be routed/ relocated, where do temp sensors go, etc. Sorry Rafa.

this part number is in the "my reroute drawing" thread.


Kia Thermostat housing cover
Part # 0K24715172A

Mazda Protege
Part # B6BF15172

Something like this... I think. Might want to wait til someone confirms before you go trying it though.

:giggle: Hell, there's even room for a Subway samich in there!

and my torque wrench, about 15 wrenches, sockets, vacuum lines, etc. gotta love that cooling plate :P


tuna on honey oat with spicy mustard FTW.

Thanks for that pic Scott.

btw, you're not planning on spinning your water pump with that water line are you?

What? As usual, I have no clue about what you're talking about.

Which water line?

What do you mean by spinning my water pump?

That was the routing I had in my car with no big issues before I built my motor.

Your turbo is not getting any wawa like that. Or very, very little at least.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...658-small-.jpg

in this pic, it looks like the line is resting on the pulley.

Scott; you scared the shit out of me!

No, that line was just resting there. The build wasn't finished.

BTW, I'll take some pics tomorrow. I can't put the pipe where yours is. I'll have to look for other options. I've got the BOV and intercooler piping interfering. I suppose we'll end up moving the IC pipe to get some room.

Thanks