1.6 450whp or bust
Been doing a healthy amount of research on here and a handful of other sites. Lots of man hours surfing the web and sifting to build threads. Both relevant and irrelevant information and a plethora of fail lol.
I've decided it's time to set out a build plan and etch some goals out for my car. Lots of research has lead me to purchasing my miata. Superior power to weight possibility, coupled with aggressive handling and a potent power plant to build from. The positive remarks go on and on etcetera etcetera.... So as far as my choosing to build the 1.6 it's simple... I have a hoard of 1.6's to choose from locally. As well as two spare long blocks in the workshop. I know I will probably get flamed pretty bad for wanting to stick with the 1.6 over swapping a 1.8 in. Motor will be machined and assembled in stages. Any insight on some of the parts I have thought about using as well as criticism both positive and negative will be reviewed. The head is going to get the works. Port and polish, bowl work, deshrouded valves, and so on. 1.6 93 head full port and polish Kelford 272 cams Supertech dual valve springs and retainers Supertech 1mm oversized exhaust valves (to help spool) Supertech intake valves (high flow) Solid lifter conversion including shim under bucket New seals and valve guides Shaved to square and clearanced for the cams Now for the block 1.6 93 block Fresh hone Complete rebuild using eom gaskets and seals Cometic head gasket Arp head studs Arp main studs Arp 2000 rod bolts Pro-gram Billet main caps Cp forged pistons 9.0:1 cr Manley h-beam rods Stock crank Ati super damper pulley Underdrive water pump pulley Underdrive alternator pulley Fuel: Dw1000 injectors Fuel lab afpr Dual feed fuel rail Custom -an fuel lines from tank to rail E85 inline fuel filter Aeromotive stealth 340lph fuel pump Ecu: Mspnp either DIY from someone on here or a complete assembled pnp from diyautotune.com Cop conversion using ls2 coils Inline coolant temp sensor with custom adapter Gm Iat mod Variable tps Modified trigger wheel?? Maybe Ebc and lc-1 wideband Now the go fast parts Turbo selection to date is a gt3582r twin scroll hotside anti-surge compressor housing (moar powahh) Custom tubular style manifold 44mm wastegate (10psi spring) Quick spool valve Full 3" v-band downpipe 4" custom v-band from dp to muffler? High flow cat? Bar and plate fmic 30x12x4 3" in/out 3" hotside piping 2 1/2" coldside piping Turboxs bov Vanjen intercooler couplers throughout Custom honda intake manifold This is by no means a complete list, merely a rough draft of the masterpiece to be assembled under the hood. The driveline will get the usual 6spd swap and 3.9 Torsen rear end with rx7 clutch type diff. 15x9 ccw wheels haven't decided on rubber yet. Fully adjustable suspension all the way around. Autokonexion complete wide body kit including fastback top and Goodwin racing gtc-200 wing. There's the plan. Have at it. Scold, criticize, compliment, whatever it may be. I have had a hand in building quite a few one-off track Demons and strip monsters. I've always wanted something to call my own that I can pour my blood sweat and tears into. Not new to fabrication and I'm by no means slow to learn. Hopefully I'll get a few views by some pretty knowledgable people. TEACH ME YOUR WAYS!! That is all |
wtf man?
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Very interested in this rx-7 clutch type Torsen. You've done some impressive research, that's for sure.
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I know the S4 Rx7 TII diff is a clutch type LSD, but you say you'll have a 6 speed with a torsen?
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Brain had an awesome writeup on what LSD setups can be used here:https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/diy-faq-all-your-answers-one-big-post-10821/
Will take some doing but I think the rx7 clutch type will be better suited for my goals. |
I have also been doing some research on tuning failsafes. I know that running e85 will leave me with some headroom as far as timing is concerned. I want to come up with a way to detect "lean events" and knock a lot sooner then when I disassemble a blown motor.
I came across this multiple input LCD get gauge http://thesensorconnection.com/gauge...yrometer-gauge That, coupled with four individual egt sensors welded onto the individual runners on my tubular manifold will allow to monitor egt's per cylinder in real-time |
You really need idiot lights. You will never be able to watch those gauges.
Dann |
Not so much of an idiot light as it would be assistive to tuning. Being able to closely monitor individual egt's could prove very useful for sensing lean burn conditions. If there was a way to wire in a warning system from the gauge to the ecu to trip it into limp mode I'm not sure. Would certainly save a substantial amount of money being spent on machining and internal components of my motor.
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Best of luck...
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Still trying to track down info on a decent/proven catch can setup. And wondering is there are any distinct advantages to a v-mount intercooler on a street car.
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1.6L with a 35R and Kelford 272s? That will drive real nice :party:
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I know I'm not doing anything new here, just trying to gain as much information as possible before final assembly takes place. I want to do it once and do it right. And reliability is certainly desired but sacrifices have to be made especially with the power goals I'm shooting for
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Just curious - how much do you think this will cost you?
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Not entirely sure as of yet, a lot of parts are being sourced new so that's going to be a bit more pricey but not having to use someone else's "throw away" parts is a plus. I'm guessing somewhere around 4-5k plus machining just for the motor. Another 3200 for the wide body and fastback conversion. 2500 for rims and suspension. 800 for tranny and rear end. 500 for random odds and ends.
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Been doing a healthy amount of research on this thread. Lots of milliseconds skimming the posts. All irrelevant information and a plethora of fail lol.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Redheadedstepchild
(Post 1122792)
Another 3200 for the wide body and fastback conversion. 2500 for rims and suspension. 800 for tranny and rear end. 500 for random odds and ends.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397822339 |
Ultimately what I intend to do with the car probably doesn't conform with what is normally expected. A lot of autox and hill climbing guys on here as well as serious drivers and enthusiasts. I more or less want a car with power closer to to top of the power band. More of a freeway runner then a canyon carver. Just an all around enjoyable platform with room for improvement if I ever wanted to get serious about autox or track days.
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Originally Posted by Redheadedstepchild
(Post 1122805)
...with power closer to
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To put it plainly I had two options. 1) Go out and purchase a new Evo or STI and spend the next 7 years and 45k paying for a stock vehicle. 2) Spend less then a third of that on doing something I enjoy, wrenching on my project, and end up with a spirited roadster that I've built with my own two hands.
This has been the only site where viable and intelligent information has been well documented and shared. Which is 90% of the reason I registered. Albeit getting that information takes some finesse and effort. In the end it's worth it to receive the know-how to get it done properly the first time and learn from others who have walked the unbeaten path before me. |
Let me help you help yourself save a whole bunch of money an end up with something that doesnt have a 1000 rpm wide powerband.
Supertech dual valve springs and retainers Supertech 1mm oversized exhaust valves (to help spool) Supertech intake valves (high flow) New seals and valve guides Shaved to square Now for the block Fresh bore hone Complete rebuild using eom gaskets and seals Arp head studs Arp main studs Arp 2000 rod bolts Manley h-beam rods Stock crank Boundary Engineering street/strip VVT oil pump DIY coolant reroute with BEGI spacer, KIA neck, and caddy hose Fuel: Fuel lab afpr Dual feed fuel rail Ecu: Cop conversion using ls2 coils Gm Iat mod Ebc and lc-1 wideband Now the go fast parts Custom tubular style manifold Full 3" v-band downpipe, or 3.5" if you can fit it Bar and plate fmic 30x12x4 |
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