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1.8 engine building Qs

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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Default 1.8 engine building Qs

One very technical, one not so much.

1. My machinist says he wants to hone my block with a honing deck plate installed, but doesn't have one to fit my block. Anyone know if this is 100% standard practice on the Miata block? Anyone know of someone that would rent or sell one cheap? I found one for a 1.6 on racingjunk.com, but am sure that it won't fit the 1.8 (different bore spacing, right, can't just bore out to 83mil +/-?).

2. What's the going opinions on what to do with the original oil pump on a ~70k engine in good shape? Just check it out to assure tolerance? Just replace with new stock unit? Swap out for full race billet unit?
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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I asked the oil pump question a while back and was told that I could reuse my old pump. I'm just using the billet gears in my old pump.
Old Nov 21, 2009 | 09:47 PM
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Specs show that a deck block/torque plate isn't needed for a Miata block. I honed my block without it.
As for the oil pump, mine had 90K on it, opened it up and everything was well within spec, so I put it back together and slapped it in. No problems so far.
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MartinezA92
Specs show that a deck block/torque plate isn't needed for a Miata block. I honed my block without it.
Do you have any figures to support that, like bore measurements with and without a torque plate installed?
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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I rented a torque plate from FM a few years ago. I think it was $50 plus shipping both ways and possibly a deposit in case you didn't return it.

--Ferdi
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by djp0623
I asked the oil pump question a while back and was told that I could reuse my old pump. I'm just using the billet gears in my old pump.
just make sure you check your tolerances when you slap in the new gears.

I would get the billets op man and nvr have to worry about it ever. And a line hone on the block with a good plate etc is good stuff. but any competent machinist can hone a block well. I would opt to ballance the rod/piston assemblys to the best of his ability as well while you have it appart. Are you getting aftermarket rods?
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Rennkafer
Do you have any figures to support that, like bore measurements with and without a torque plate installed?
No, but prosis (where I got my numbers/specs/etc.) showed that it wasn't needed. Not to say I'm right, just saying.
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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I will call FM today to see if they still rent the plate out, good info.

I'm in for balancing rotating assembly. Forged pistons, Carillo rods, et al. Probably in for 99/00 head, found one for a great price. This is going to be a hilarious build.
Old Dec 17, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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Bump for update and a couple more questions.

FM rents a torque plate, $50 plus shipping and a pretty big deposit in case you jet with it. They told me I could keep it a couple of weeks. Glad they can help out like this, I think this is the right way to do things. We are going to torque the plate with my new APR fasteners, to the torque specs we are going to use when done, so the block will see the same (cold) stresses that it will see with the head.

I am getting a Boundary Oil pump. Again, seems like the right way, and when you are already spending money, what's a little more....?

Question on gasket sets. I have a 1.8 out of a 97, head off a '00. I am getting Mazda gaskets through Motorsports. The online catalog is a little confusing. Ideally, I could get a block set separate from a head set, but this doesn't appear to be available. I'm thinking of getting an engine set for the 97, then getting the mani gaskets for the '00 head separately. Will the rest of the gaskets from the 97 kit fit the 00 head?

On the part numbers. In the .pdf catalog, there is a note that says "the d-code of 10-271S consists of figure numbers 1 though 20." The problem is that there are no less than four part numbers with 10-271S d codes. One is obviously supposed to have the d-code 02-310S, which is the mani gasket set, it's mislabeled in the d code column. Leaving 3 part numbers with 10-271S d codes: 8AN2-10-271B, 8AN2-10-271C, 8DN2-10-271. Which one of THESE do I need for the 97 block?

What else do I need for the '00 head? Both manifold gaskets, should I get the plenum gasket? Valve cover gasket the same?

Last question, the '00 valve cover has a hole, 3/8-1/2", right front by the timing gear. Is this the only difference in the '00 cover and the '97?
Old Dec 17, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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what are the prices on the gaskets and where are you getting them? i know fm sells a set but its pretty pricey, not saying its not worth it but if you can do the leg work yourself i bet you can get them cheaper.
Old Dec 17, 2009 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
what are the prices on the gaskets and where are you getting them? i know fm sells a set but its pretty pricey, not saying its not worth it but if you can do the leg work yourself i bet you can get them cheaper.
It's going to sound funny, but I won't repeat Mazda Motorsports prices on here. Suffice to say that they were lower than Rosenthal, by enough that it's worthwhile getting a Mazdaspeed membership.
Old Dec 17, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by webby459
FM rents a torque plate, $50 plus shipping and a pretty big deposit in case you jet with it. They told me I could keep it a couple of weeks. Glad they can help out like this, I think this is the right way to do things. We are going to torque the plate with my new APR fasteners, to the torque specs we are going to use when done, so the block will see the same (cold) stresses that it will see with the head.
By the way, the head bolts/arp studs will be too long for the FM torque plate. I ended up having to make aluminum spacers. See pic below.

--Ferdi

Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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apperantly im not allowed to join the mazdaspeed membership, being my car is labled a ford. im going to have to ask someone to get me a uote when the time is right
Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ftjandra
By the way, the head bolts/arp studs will be too long for the FM torque plate. I ended up having to make aluminum spacers. See pic below.

--Ferdi
Ferdi, do you have specs on the spacers? Dia and length? Did you cut them, or were you able to source something that worked from the fastener dist? I'm tempted to get some/make some then ship them back with the plate to FM so that the next guy has them.
Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by webby459
Ferdi, do you have specs on the spacers? Dia and length? Did you cut them, or were you able to source something that worked from the fastener dist? I'm tempted to get some/make some then ship them back with the plate to FM so that the next guy has them.
I just looked for them, but could not find them. I still have some of the aluminum tube that I cut them out of and it measures 22mm OD and 11mm ID. I must have purchased metric tubing...it's been so long that I don't remember anymore... Oh, and two of the spacers are longer than the others.

Actually, now that I think about it, I believe I loaned the spacers to someone to use with the FM plate and never got them back ...

--Ferdi
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