Mazdaspeeder

I'm budgeting the build into one project and a larger turbo system (TSE I think) in the spring or summer to another seperate thing. For up to 300whp, I don't think I need any headwork aside from a fresh set of valve seals.

Mazdaspeeder

After some more reading I had pretty much settled on Wiseco pistons 8.6:1, but looking at ring gaps got me wondering. Am I better off with the Wiseco or Supertech for street use? I read one expands more than the other, but if the clearances are correct it shouldn't matter right?

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

The 4032 alloy in Supertechs has a higher silicon content resulting in a lower thermal expansion coefficient than the 2618 alloy used by Wiseco, CP, etc. So the clearance spec is a little tighter with the Supertechs. The 2618 alloy has something like 10-20% higher yield strength but I don't think that's of much consequence on the majority of Miata builds and significant det is going to damage either piston anyway. I went with Supertechs for my street/track car because others on this forum have tracked them with good results putting down as much or more power than I plan to, so I didn't see a need for slightly higher strength but slightly more loosey-goosey clearance pistons.

Mazdaspeeder

Do the supertechs come with any kind of coating like the wiseco? Also are scat rods ok? They are within 2 grams I believe

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I am at the same point as Alex on a new FI Miata project, my first one is a 90 with an M45 water to air IC coolant RR, MS1 suspension wheels hard top and all.
This new car is an 80k 99 sport that just purchased, I would like to keep as a fun sporty fair weather DD without the hard core suspension and seats that i have on my NA, I want to keep functional AC, PS, no racing seats or roll bar.
I have two engines one is the original 99 motor and the other is a 2001 VVT, people seem to agree that the VVT will spool faster and have more torque and the cost of building either one will be about the same, I'm still not sure if it is worth the extra trouble to wire and tune, and that was the most difficult part of building my NA, I'm still not 100% satisfied with the tune.
I'v been collecting parts for a couple months and have a new EFR 6258 turbo, roods, light weight flying miata flywheel and clutch, Hp Plus brakes, Kony's w coilover and srings.
On my to get and or make list are MS3, injectors, intercooler parts, pistons rings, gasket sets, coolant RR, radiator, boost and AFR gauges, sway bars, and make a fwd mount tube manifold and 3"down pipe-exhaust.
I would like to tune the engine to whatever maximum power that setup will safely yield on pump gas and then back the boost to 250 to keep things together and still have the option to dial up the boost for a track day or the inevitable greedy moment.
Does anyone in the forum have a good tuner near (3 hr drive) Indianapolis that can tune the MS3 and VVT? would like a load Dyno and lots of experience, DON'T WANT TO SAVE $400 in tuning to blow up a nice new motor!
How much hp can be expected from this setup? Any other suggestions must read and warnings?
thanks! Harold
Putman Park 23 October 2011 Harold Supercharged Miata - YouTube

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Oh ******* really? Wow, no way!

Btw you and mr same boat above should aim higher for power. Especially if you get an efr.

The difference between 300hp and 350 and then 400 is huge. Dont be a *****. Your motor can do it.

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I dont want to run on the knife edge, think that if I was looking for 350 to 400hp I would be looking for an LS motor ... I want a reliable miata that is not going to granade any minute.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...023FF174DA.jpg

Mazdaspeeder

Pretty set on everything aside from rods, pistons, and clutch.

Pistons (wiseco or supertech) (8.6:1 compression either way)
Rods (Eagle, K1, Manley)
Clutch (Comp, ACT, etc.)

Is Boundary Engineering oil pump really necessary?

Give me some input on which rod and piston combo you'd choose of the ones I've listed and why. All are priced similarly.

cowboys647

If you just want 300whp I would go with the supertechs, rods don't matter (I got manley rods and they work fine), and I'm very happy with my act clutch. In response to your question about the oil pump, from what I read you either want the ati or supermiata damper or get the be oil pump if not both. If your going to stay at 300whp then just get one or the other IMHO.

Mazdaspeeder

Any other feedback on the oil pump and/or pulley? Was supposed to take everything to the shop this week but Sandy came and fuxed us up a bit so this coming Tuesday will be the day.

I found that FlyinMiata sells basically a complete gasket set for the rebuild and since I already have some things theyre willing to work with me so I'm getting all that stuff from them.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

If you're talking to me... aiming for that kind of power is not in the near future for my BP Miata.

Mazdaspeeder

Same here. I believe it gets to a point where a car becomes less and less drivable if you overload the power, that's why 300 is my upper. If I change my mind later I can always go up.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I'm just keeping within the constraints of the stock motor in my case. I'm burnt out on building cars at the moment.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

^^^^ *****.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

+1

400whp is a lot of fun, but not on street tires.

slmhofy

iTrader: (5)

Sav,

What's your opinion for him in regards to the damper or billet pump gears?

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

at that point you have a lot of money and time into your motor. it makes no sense to not spend the money and get those items.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

+1

Mazdaspeeder

Any recomendation for sites that I can find these parts on? Aside from fm, begi, or 949. I'm looking on jscspeed and tse as well

Mazdaspeeder

I mean the entire build, not the pump and pulley, I know where to get those.