I might be biased, but I'd suggest supporting the shops that actually race on the weekends - they can suggest parts that are going to actually work.

 

I'm gonna give you a call tomorrow to discuss a few options I see on your site.

 

Ordered
Boundary Engineering Street/Strip Billet oil pump
Wiseco 83.5mm 8.6:1 Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Comp Clutch 13lb Steel Flywheel
SPEC Stage 3 clutch kit
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
ARP rod bolts
MegaSquirt MS2 Enhanced

Left to order:
Complete Gasket set
ACL Race Rod Bearings
ACL Race Main Bearings
ACL Thrust Bearings
Mazda Competition Motor Mounts

 

looks good
make sure you get the right headgasket for the coolant reroute.

 

What coolant reroute? I hear there is really marginal differences that can only be measured on a track car...did I hear wrong?

 

What do you make of these marks? These are the new eagle rods, these marks are not able to be felt but can be seen under certain angles.
I've outlined them



Also, here there are 2 perfectly straight lines across, again, cannot be felt, but only one rod has them. The outline in the further rod shows where the marks would be (but only one has these).



Im sure its no big deal, but just being ----. Also got my flywheel, main studs, and a sweet mishimoto magnetic drain plug (someone said this is very important for breakin because it will keep any loose particles from the rings down below after they get seated in)

Would running a thicker oil help increase engine life? I've always used 5W-30 in this car, but with the new stuff, maybe it makes sense to go higher? It's gonna get one oil change a year so cost of oil is not a question or issue.

 

Search the forum for coolant reroute info. It is necessary. The cylinders don't get equal coolant flow as your car is set up now due to the fwd origins of the engine. Its not enough to matter at stock levels, but at ~275whp it will.

 

I had a few guys who track their cars regularly say that if it's going to be a track car, it's needed, but for my uses, it's not. I ordered OEM headgasket so no coolant reroute ATM. I don't think people understand that this will be a STREET car, and the 300whp I want is a complete maximum, and I'll utilize all 300whp only occasionally, again, just want the power to be there but I won't always be using it. Then, if I have a 300whp setup that only goes WOT a few times per drive (which only consists of maybe 50 miles at a time), I don't think I'm going to suddenly run into a coolant issue. If I was to be spending most of my time on a track in high RPM under high load, I'd agree with you guys 110%, but the way I drive, it's usually a relaxing cruise, then once I get on the highway I'll romp on it, get it up to triple digits, then back down to speed limit for a few minutes, and then if conditions allow it, I might open it up again. I'm not driving 9/10 or 10/10 on the street regardless, and especially with 300whp on the street in this car, I doubt I'll have to go past half throttle to get the push I want, or to be able to pass someone.

 

I'm running without a reroute at 240whp and I did have a stock radiator and had no problems overheating on long canyon runs or in stop and go traffic. You should be fine.

 

Word for word what I was told, and I trust this guy as he's always got good information

"Cylinder #4 ran hot in the NA Miata for two reasons: inadequate coolant flow and injector #4 was fed last from the fuel rail. So it wasn't cooled as well and got less fuel than the other cylinders - double whammy.

Mazda cleaned things up with the head gasket and fuel rail changes. More coolant passes around 4 and it sips first from the NB fuel rails. A re-route *might* make a difference on a track car (my buddy Mr. Hyde did a reroute on his, but he changed the head gasket to the older front-wheel-drive version).

If I were building an engine for a dual-purpose car (a little track work, lots of street use), I wouldn't worry about a re-route. Most rear-drive cars put water into the same end of the engine that it comes out of."

 

Any feedback on the clutch? I ordered the spec stage 3 but after some reading am having doubts. Its a 6 puck so im expecting it to be noisy, the grabby part doesnt bother me too too much. Any alternatives i should consider? I can exhange for something else before i install

 

im curious as to why anyone buys anything but FMI or II, or the 949 clutch.

 

Buy the FM2 clutch and call it a day.

 

so buy a spec stage 3?

 

Pretty sure...yea he said FM2..

 

I'm pretty sure that was a facetious remark.

 

You don't say..

So between fm, clutchmasters, competition, and act which has the better rep and can hold 300.

 

Ask any racer, any real racer: They run a spec stage 3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197169399375 10582097494459230781640628620899862803482534211706 79821480865132823066470938446095505822317253594081 28481117450284102701938521105559644622948954930381 9644288

 

They run a pie?

 

if you're still too dense to pick up on the sarcasm and still can't figure out which is best of that lot being on MT then you have a long way to go