I'm assuming .64?

 

.86

... I dont know, a few tuners have talked about it probably being better with the high comp because of EGT's.

Any thoughts?

Dann

 

Do it on a dynojet so we can actually compare to other people's plots. Uncorrected.

 

.86 is what you want, Savington and Hustler would be here to call you a ***** if you had a .64 housing. You're a bloke, and blokes like that nice wide gaping... housing.

 

What if I told you that a garrett BB turbo + a good name brand external waste gate + a good name brand blowoff valve cost the same as an EFR turbo that already has a very good IWG and has a BPV on it.

 

 

see, that's what I've been saying..

But whatever, I'm in for results. I don't think I've seen a spud runn ALLOFIT on a miata yet

 

Exactly. As a package is actually very good price unless you compare to China charger which I hope he is not putting on this engine!

 

It was a <1000km old genuine garrett for half of new price, and I am a turbosmart account holder so again, very cheap, also EFR in australia is very expensive.

Too bad for you guys but, I want to move to the states for so many reasons.

Dann

 

Have you looked into getting an account with full-race? Contact me on PM and I can share some info. You'd be surprised!!!

Cheers,
O.

 

Started.

 

Not afraid that the O2 will be toasted?

 

I'm guessing(hoping) that is his EGT?

 

No that's a wideband. If it just for tuning I would not sweat it. If it's permanent it's time to move it down next to the V band clamp.

 

Its for tuning, it has another under the car

Dann

 

Meh, look how long his runners are on the manifold. Combined with using E85, that sensor should be fine.

 

Was about to say the same thing. Its fine either way

 

And the fact that post turbo EGT's are substantially lower than pre turbo EGT's.

In the cryogenic air separation plant at my job we have what is called the "expander / compressor". Essentially it is a giant turbocharger where the purpose of the turbine end (expander) is to chill the already cold incoming air down to near cryogenic temperatures.

Keith

 

Fortunately Im getting the opportunity to tidy it up a lot and remove the fingerprints left by quite a few others, so a lot of the engine bay is getting tidied up, along with removing the cross bar that holds the front plastic reo and replacing with tubes to support the oil cooler and will support the ducting and the splitter.


A few questions in no particular order:

This Peterson external oil pressure regulator, part number 09-0160 found at the bottom of this page: Peterson Fluid Systems : Pump Accessories

Has anyone here used one? I have seen a lot of dirt track guys like them, and local B series specialists have touted them as the -proper- solution to broken oil pumps, rather than just trying to make them strong enough to cope with the pressure, this allows the pressure to be controlled with a very large and accurate regulator.

Im going to plumb it in into the oil cooler, currently this has no thermostat, also the car has no oil temp gauge however I am fitting one. I intend to plumb this reg in AFTER the oil cooler just before it heads back into the block, this way the pressure is controlled after the change in temperature and this way all of the regulated, unused, oil will still lap through the oil cooler repeatedly.

Any reason why this is a bad idea?


Question 2:

How much of the radiator mouth needs to be dedicated for the intercooler generally?

I was considering a flap that can move up and down to adjust the percentage for the IC and for the radiator and just closing the gap on the radiator until it showed trouble controlling water temp and then opening it a bit?

Question 3:

What are people using to hold up front splitters? Tie rods?

Any links for me to look at or pictures?


Thanks heaps,
Dann

 

Guess I'm a god damned pioneer