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Old 06-10-2014, 06:01 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
I recommend ID1300, Walbro 450 E85 (part #F90000267) pump, 12 gauge wires for the pump and the fuel pump relay relocated to the trunk.
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For 500whp, this is what you want. Use the factory fuel pump relay to trigger a dedicated 25A relay with 12awg wires straight from the battery.
I hate you people... how are you running 12awg wires in to the tank directly to the pump?
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:18 PM   #82
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If you're feeling lazy or just want something clean we sell THIS.
Just use the existing wiring to trigger this relay system designed to support the needs of higher amperage pumps. The wiring included is plenty long enough to run directly to the battery in the trunk.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:28 PM   #83
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If you're feeling lazy or just want something clean we sell THIS.
Just use the existing wiring to trigger this relay system designed to support the needs of higher amperage pumps. The wiring included is plenty long enough to run directly to the battery in the trunk.


Not to like... publicly question your products on a forum, but how well are those relays holding up? I've had some problems with the cheap china relays in headlight kits in the past, and every sub-$50 pump kit i've seen uses the same china relays.

I've been looking into getting a kit like this for the DD. At 30psi, i don't want to **** around with some 25 year old wire ******* up my day.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:48 PM   #84
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It's been in my car for two years and the amperage rating is overkill for the needs of the harness.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:22 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
I hate you people... how are you running 12awg wires in to the tank directly to the pump?
There are many bulkhead terminals available. Here are examples:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ead-connectors


I have not tried the Walbro 450 pump yet. I'm running an Aeromotive 340 right now and like it a lot. It is less "whiney" than Walbro 255 pumps.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:46 PM   #86
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There are many bulkhead terminals available. Here are examples:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ead-connectors
Awesome, thanks Ben. I'll probably go start a thread about it and not clutter this one.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:46 PM   #87
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External pump for the WIN!
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:16 PM   #88
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External pump for the WIN!
External pumps work well in a very narrow window of situations, and the OP's application falls well outside that window.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:52 PM   #89
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Now I want bulkhead wiring pimp **** for my daily driver. Good idea?
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:49 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
I hate you people... how are you running 12awg wires in to the tank directly to the pump?
You can get away with it through the stock connector. As the length of wire decreases, the required wire gauge to run X number of amps decreases as well. Running 25A through an 18awg wire over a 10ft run is going to result in some voltage drop, but doing it for 3" before the connector isn't going to make much of a difference.
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:23 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
There are many bulkhead terminals available. Here are examples:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ead-connectors
Awesome, thanks Ben. I'll probably go start a thread about it and not clutter this one.
I don't think any of these fittings are fuel-resistant.
Here are some real connectors -
Racetronix - BULKHEAD CONNECTORS
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:53 AM   #92
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This one seems to be a better fit, seeing how its all terminated and such. Racetronix - Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way

14amps per terminal is a shitload of amps. My DW200 "only" pulls 12.7amps @ 100psig so this thing is more than adequate for the job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
You can get away with it through the stock connector. As the length of wire decreases, the required wire gauge to run X number of amps decreases as well. Running 25A through an 18awg wire over a 10ft run is going to result in some voltage drop, but doing it for 3" before the connector isn't going to make much of a difference.
Thanks Andrew, that makes perfect sense. I know that logic/info was somewhere in my brain. Props!
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:07 AM   #93
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Yeah I really wonder how big the hole for the OEM bulkhead connector is. I had a spare fuel pump assembly but I think I junked it :(

The hole for that connector is a round 10mm, which seems to be pretty common
http://racetronix.com/product/BCWS-001/BCWS_C2.pdf
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:57 AM   #94
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From the bulkhead down (to the pump) you'll be just fine with stock wiring. It's the length of wire from the fuse box to the bulkhead that you're trying to avoid loading up. Ohms per foot is what you're trying to eliminate. 5 inches of 18ga wire is not going to be problematic. If you want the bulkhead that's cool, it's just overkill especially for a single pump.

Also keep in mind DW pumps (if you choose to go this route) aren't gear/rotor style pumps and will require less amperage at the same flow rates.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:46 PM   #95
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I used the yellow racetronix one when I did my rewire. I also used double pins going through it since the connector is only rated at 14amps per pin and thats not enough for the wally 400e85. I wont NOT run the wally 400e85. I idled my car for like 5 minutes when I first installed the pump and thought the stock wiring was going to start melting. So now I have a nice 15amp fuse on it and a 45 amp relay and all 12ga wiring except inside the tank and near the built head connector its 14ga in parallel. When you do install the wally 400e85 buy the mating metripack connector from racetronix so you get the fuel rated connector seal, the normal seal will swell way up. And it MUST be sealed if you are going to use E85.

The bulkhead fittings Ben linked to are only slightly less scary than just running the wires straight through with some RTV.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:57 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I used the yellow racetronix one when I did my rewire. I also used double pins going through it since the connector is only rated at 14amps per pin and thats not enough for the wally 400e85. I wont NOT run the wally 400e85. I idled my car for like 5 minutes when I first installed the pump and thought the stock wiring was going to start melting. So now I have a nice 15amp fuse on it and a 45 amp relay and all 12ga wiring except inside the tank and near the built head connector its 14ga in parallel. When you do install the wally 400e85 buy the mating metripack connector from racetronix so you get the fuel rated connector seal, the normal seal will swell way up. And it MUST be sealed if you are going to use E85.

The bulkhead fittings Ben linked to are only slightly less scary than just running the wires straight through with some RTV.
million dollar question, did the Racetronix bulkhead connector fit the stock bulkhead connector hole?
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:05 PM   #97
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I'm glad I've so effectively derailed this thread

To be fair, the page Ben linked has one connector I would consider:


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd-504

Its made by the ATL Fuel Cell people so its fuel rated. I like that you can run whatever wire you want directly to the pump... but the wicking fuel up the wire scares the **** out of me.

Better pic from another site:

LeMons-Legal ATL 2-Wire Standard Bulkhead Fitting

Its LeMons legal so it must be good, right

Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
million kopek question, did the Racetronix bulkhead connector fit the stock bulkhead connector hole?
+1
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:11 PM   #98
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+2.

This thread is now about baller in-tank fuel pump wiring.
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:18 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
million dollar question, did the Racetronix bulkhead connector fit the stock bulkhead connector hole?
No, I kept the stock one for the fuel level sender since I populated all 4 pins on that connector with fuel pump wiring.

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Old 06-11-2014, 01:42 PM   #100
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ah, props.
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