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Old 12-02-2013, 04:12 AM   #1
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Default 4AGE ITB installations

Hi everybody, I have post a forum on Toyota AE101/AE111 4A-GE Miata ITB Resources about my ITB installation problems now facing.
The fact is after I took the head off to install ITB, after head and ITB put back on, found out that the ITB is hitting the starter main +ve, which cause the whole car electric short out.!
Now remove and re-install the head again to remove the parts that is touching the starter main +ve, but bad news, starter not responding, and all wiring seems going crazy, or maybe, is only cause by unplug wire that left out from the ITB? Please see details description below:

Toyota AE101/AE111 4A-GE Miata ITB Resources - Page 15 - ClubRoadster.net

I put the post there because I believe people whom like to convert to IRTB will see that post for sure, easy to find and informative to people who love the sound of ITB~~

Since I am idiot on electric system, trying to see if anyone can tell me the proper wiring that will make my ignition key start to work again!

I do not want to pollute the ITB Resources post, so, any suggestion are welcome to post here to point out my mistake!

Thank you~
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
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Interesting.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #3
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I don't think anyone is going to have the magic answer just from looking at blurry internet pictures. Here's the classic recipe.

Mulitmeter + something like this + several of your nights and weekends off.

Check your grounds, your main fuse, your igniter, etc. Good luck.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:48 PM   #4
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Have you tried a new starter? It is possible that the original one was fried when metal was touching.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:00 PM   #5
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Check your main fuses and relays which are located in the engine compartment. I had a main fuse blow from a major short before.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:30 PM   #6
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Thanks everybody, yeah, it's true the problem is hard to tackle, as I do not know if the unplug wiring from old intake plenum is casing the strange effect from electric device, hopefully there are no relations from those sensors to control the starter units~
The mess is really from too many items changed at single time, so, really hard to guess which one is going wrong, I already use a multi-meter to test all the fuse from engine fuse box, and also the fuse box from drive side (RHD).

Also thought of changing the starter, but I am guessing is, if the short is from the starter main +ve bolts directly touching the ground, this actually means no more electricity is passing thur further after the starter to the main fuse box? and since starter is only a motor, with the main +ve bolts already short out the batteries I'd connected, so, the only damage should only be the battery itself?

What is next is? I think is to take the starter off the car and test if it is working..

Also, planning on buying a start / stop switch, then I may by pass all the original wiring and give the engine a start try? do you think this is a good ideas? then I do not have to worry about the unplug wiring, only as well as the car able to start...
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:41 PM   #7
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I would be willing to bet your problem is much simpler than you think. I would not do anything drastic until you have done the usual electrical diagnostic work. Start with the basics like grounds, fuses, and visual clues first.
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
I would be willing to bet your problem is much simpler than you think. I would not do anything drastic until you have done the usual electrical diagnostic work. Start with the basics like grounds, fuses, and visual clues first.
Okay, so got a little time last weekend to work on the problems using visual clues, got the car jack up and work from below as follows:

Closely examine the starter and check for starter wiring diagram, found there should be an open socket that I did not plug-in:

Then closer view on starter unit, I assume that I have miss a socket should be plug in here:



So, looking at a main wiring cable to find this, that there should be a wiring that goes on to the starter:



Trying to seek out how the starter wiring should goes:


So, back to my miata, the wiring plug should be up here somewhere!


OKay, last, what is the sensor on ITB looks like that you have to take apart before install is here:


Coming weekend should be buzy, so will be working on her again the second week~ Any people have work on the starter and know how the exact wiring should goes?
Attached Thumbnails
4AGE ITB installations-imag2599.jpg   4AGE ITB installations-imag2602.jpg   4AGE ITB installations-imag2601.jpg   4AGE ITB installations-img-20131208-wa0025.jpg   4AGE ITB installations-whole_4age_itb_on_miata-1.jpg  

4AGE ITB installations-sensor_hitting_starter_main.jpg  
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:58 AM   #9
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Now, everything on hardware ITB setup had sort out and engine is ready to start and trying to tune for dual table with my mspnp before installing my MS3, which have an ITB tune available.. since I browse most of the forum and cannot find an setup that matches latest TunerStudio settings, I will try to list out the settings as below:

My Firmware : MSnS-extra format 029q *******

1) File > Project > Project Properties > Settings > Fueling Algorithm > Alpha-N

2) Advanced > Advanced code options > Hybrid Alpha N > On

3.1) Advanced > Fuel Table Selection > injector channel 2 : use table > 2(DT)
3.2) Advanced > Fuel Table Selection > injector channel 2 : Pulse inj2 during cranking > Off

4) Fuel Dual Table 2 > Control Algorithm > Speed Density

5) Basic Settings > Engine Constants 1 > Control Algorithm > Alpha-N

6) Tools > Calibrate TPS > Get Close / Full Throttle readings

7) Basic Settings > Fuel VE Table 1 > Adjust X axis to match with TPS readings
8) Manual adjust Map X axis that will relevant to TPS X axis
9) More Settings > AFR Target for Table 1 > Setup Target for Table 1 (Alpha-N)
10) Settings regarding ExtraEFI manual about Secondary Fuel Load.. as describe after item 12
12) More Settings > Barometric Correction > Yes

But I look all over the settings, just cannot find the followings:
More Engine Constants
So how do I set the Secondary fuel load = Disable , "Muitiply", ...
Injector Characteristics On Bank 1 Bank 2


Is these all that I need to look after, or there are still items missing?
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:40 AM   #10
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Get it running/tuned on pure Alpha-N first and then see what kind of vacuum you have available to run dual tables/mixed/ITB.
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:28 AM   #11
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OK, will follow the procedure..
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:45 PM   #12
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Started, runs fine without stalling, but the settings is very very rich, seems like not running any lean even I change the map to much lower figures...
My current tune
My first start log file

Probably will move to MS3 tune as soon as I get an ITB MS3 tune somewhere...
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:19 PM   #13
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Default MS3 now installed

ToNight, MS3 with basic alpha-n tune installed and started:
The engine idle pretty stable except fuel is running very rich, I have try to change the fuel required to see if that is the problem, but no, only affecting very little, so, below is my settings:
CurrentTune File
Data Log File
My Fuel

Basic Settings, In primary fuel load, do I need to select Alpha N, and select secondary fuel load as SD?:
http://enginetuning.hk/images/93_mia...alSettings.PNG

Fuel Table 1, the blue box is where the map is running in, which I have try to change the VE to much lower figures to see if the rich fuel got change, but only have very little effects..
Am I needing to change the O2 readings somewhere? I use Innovate MTX-L, since the garge reading is different from the Tunerstudio readings, Innovate read Lean, while TunerStudio read Rich.


Idle Advance


The Next is my RPM Cluster is still not working, before when I am using MSPNP, I had add a 1K resistor to B+ BG, works for a while, then, never work again, so, this MS3 is reading tach signal from crank, should be working now, but No!!


Last is my Idle Vale settings, I am using a three wire, in which box do I able to change the opening position? I do not need wide open, currently I have one wire grounding using around 60Ohm, 50 watts resistor (three 35Ohm in seriers), because if I use one, the resistor will get too hot and start smoking, the Valve is a cheap China made Bosch three wire model.








That is all the problem at current state., thank you
Attached Thumbnails
4AGE ITB installations-fuel.png   4AGE ITB installations-fueltbl1.png   4AGE ITB installations-idleadvance.png   4AGE ITB installations-tachoutput.png   4AGE ITB installations-pwm-iacv.png  

4AGE ITB installations-closeloopidle.png   4AGE ITB installations-closeloopidletarget.png  

Last edited by edwardsuen; 03-13-2014 at 02:39 PM.
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