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I had this issue recently, though it was much closer to flush than yours. The only reason I suspected an issue was that the trigger wheel was sitting at the outer edge of the crank sensor and not closer to the center. I didn't notice this until I had the whole front of the engine back together, but I didn't want to risk starting it if I wasn't sure it was right and pulled it all down again. Turns out the woodruff key got caught and it was mashed up. Basically, I was torquing the damper to a mashed up key against the crank.
Everything looked OK during install, I can't seen anything alarming in the photo below taken before torquing the crank bolt, but I guess something wasn't right.
The keyway in the damper was a little messed up too. I ended up reverting back to the stock damper and old woodruff key to get back on the road.But shortly after I developed a major leak, it looks like the front seal also got damaged and I'm in the middle of redoing the whole thing again. I've since had the damper's key way damage repaired and I'll attempt to use the ATI again.
I'd suggest pulling it out and checking if this has happened. You'll need to buy or rent a damper pulley. And if you've got something similar, I would recommend a new FMS now, cheap insurance.
I had this issue recently, though it was much closer to flush than yours. The only reason I suspected an issue was that the trigger wheel was sitting at the outer edge of the crank sensor and not closer to the center. I didn't notice this until I had the whole front of the engine back together, but I didn't want to risk starting it if I wasn't sure it was right and pulled it all down again. Turns out the woodruff key got caught and it was mashed up. Basically, I was torquing the damper to a mashed up key against the crank.
Everything looked OK during install, I can't seen anything alarming in the photo below taken before torquing the crank bolt, but I guess something wasn't right.
The keyway in the damper was a little messed up too. I ended up reverting back to the stock damper and old woodruff key to get back on the road.But shortly after I developed a major leak, it looks like the front seal also got damaged and I'm in the middle of redoing the whole thing again. I've since had the damper's key way damage repaired and I'll attempt to use the ATI again.
I'd suggest pulling it out and checking if this has happened. You'll need to buy or rent a damper pulley. And if you've got something similar, I would recommend a new FMS now, cheap insurance.
Which way is the correct way to have the woodruff key in? There’s 2 sides, squared off and slightly rounded
First off the straight key has to go on with the dampener or just afterwards. Meaning, engage the shaft with the dampener with the slots aligned and then insert the key. There is a radius at the end of the slot in the crank that will push up the key if it is installed first and bad things will occur.
The timing pulley guide flange has a small hole that engages a roll pin in the back of the pulley. Do you have the guide installed, does it need the guide? Do you have a later 1.6 aka big nose crank? Look at the Picts on the link below to see the flange.
If you use a boundary pump do not use their supplied seal, use only a factory seal unless you like doing things twice. There is no need to use any goop or loctite on the dampener to crank interface. The ati dampener has a crazy interference fit. They will not come loose or leak. The timing cover is dry in this application. If your concern is water intrusion from rain etc then a small amount of silicone/anaerobic sealer under the perimeter of the bolt flange is plenty. The radius goes in first and the key is not symmetrical so it fits one way that fills the width of the slot.
02-23-2020, 01:17 PM
ATI Dampner crank gear won’t sit flush on crank shaft
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