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Old 02-27-2014, 01:06 PM   #41
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Begi spacer + kia neck + caddy hose, if you can get it to not leak is the best because it keeps the thermostat on the head, and it only costs like $140. MTuned would be my #2 pick, only because the thermostat is further from the head, and it can cause the alternator post to break off if you dont secure the hose to the car. The begi one is too expensive for how shitty it looks.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:12 PM   #42
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What do you mean "if you can get it to not leak?"

I don't have the patience to re-do the job a million times because of shitty parts, if that's what's going to happen.

So you're saying:

This: BEGI Rear Thermostat Spacer 1990-2005

Plus Kia neck for $3 from local yard, plus thermostat of my choice, plus GM hose thing, plus a blockoff plate kit of some sort for the front, = awesomesauce?
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:16 PM   #43
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+1.

The DIY, MTuned and BEGI Rear T-stat (first option) are all just slightly different ways of doing the traditional reroute.

BEGI also lists a couple of optional ways to install their rear T-stat reroute, but without the directions, I can't tell exactly what they are describing. I think that the "Racer" reroute is bad enough that I would shy away from BEGI for these items other than their spacer.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:17 PM   #44
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More or less. I fought mine, finally settling on having to use hondabond to make the spacer not leak against the head, and having to get the hose cut perfectly straight and the clamp in exactly the right spot, and using liquid teflon rather than tape on the threaded connections, and sacrificing my virginity (most effective change) to get it to stop leaking. YMMV.

And by blockoff plate kit you mean, scrap piece of 1/4" aluminum sawsalled into shape, drilled to match the head, and held on with some rtv then yes.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:21 PM   #45
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Lets start with the question "does this car need a reroute at all"?

It has a built engine, so you'll want to protect it. That's a vote for.

It has a GT2554, so unless you change that it'll never make more than ~240whp. Whether you need it for at power level is up for debate.

It's not going to be a track car unless you sell it to someone who wants to use it as such. That's a vote against.

I like doing things the right way, but if you're trying to save money and flip it, I'd just remove the 'racer reroute' or move it to the lower rad hose like others have suggested.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:22 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
+1.

The DIY, MTuned and BEGI Rear T-stat (first option) are all just slightly different ways of doing the traditional reroute.

BEGI also lists a couple of optional ways to install their rear T-stat reroute, but without the directions, I can't tell exactly what they are describing. I think that the "Racer" reroute is bad enough that I would shy away from BEGI for these items other than their spacer.
Got it.

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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
More or less. I fought mine, finally settling on having to use hondabond to make the spacer not leak against the head, and having to get the hose cut perfectly straight and the clamp in exactly the right spot, and using liquid teflon rather than tape on the threaded connections, and sacrificing my virginity (most effective change) to get it to stop leaking. YMMV.

And by blockoff plate kit you mean, scrap piece of 1/4" aluminum sawsalled into shape, drilled to match the head, and held on with some rtv then yes.
That sounds ******* awful. Is it mostly because the spacer itself is a piece of ****? I don't know why threaded connections would leak. I use Ebay bullshit on the MX6 with threaded fittings for water temp, and it doesn't leak a drop.


Blockoff plate would probably mean an order to TSE because i hate nothing more on this world than fabbing things.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:25 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
Lets start with the question "does this car need a reroute at all"?

It has a built engine, so you'll want to protect it. That's a vote for.

It has a GT2554, so unless you change that it'll never make more than ~240whp. Whether you need it for at power level is up for debate.

It's not going to be a track car unless you sell it to someone who wants to use it as such. That's a vote against.

I like doing things the right way, but if you're trying to save money and flip it, I'd just remove the 'racer reroute' or move it to the lower rad hose like others have suggested.
We're probably going to have it for at least 2-3 months at this point. Going to use it as my DD until i have the MX6 dialed back in. Will re-evaluate the situation from there.

Piecing together a decent suspension for it as well. I figure a fully sorted car will be more valuable/easier to sell, as well as be better to drive in the meantime.

Also: I'm pretty sure i can make more than 240whp with this setup. I'm just unsure if i want to throw the gauntlet Dann style just yet.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:26 PM   #48
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I think I got a **** spacer from begi to be honest, I also had to re-tap the m14 bung for the stock coolant sensor even though Stephanie assured me over the phone that they check every one. I ran the tap through, it seemed like they accidentally use the fractional size because it was just a hair off. And I think someone used my head as a hammer or anvil when trackspeed had it. I had to file the head flange flat too because it was all dinged to ****.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #49
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Leak problems people have are mainly because of how limited the access is on the back of the head. So, it's hard to get gaskets positioned correctly and it's hard to torque evenly. I've always installed these with the engine pulled, so no issues. If you can take the PPF of the tranny and tilt the engine it helps with access.

Slightly better access back there with the M-Tuned because you don't have the spacer + waterneck stack.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:51 PM   #50
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If i have tiny lady hands, will i have an easier time?
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:10 PM   #51
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yes. mine leaked not from the spacer->head mating surfaces, but from the plugs. Either the threads machined into the spacer suck, or the brass plugs suck. I used liquid teflon and it didn't seal for crap. I have teflon tape on it now. I have no sealant of any kind between the spacer, head, and kia neck, just the paper gaskets.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:12 PM   #52
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OK Where can i read about this new car you bought?
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:27 AM   #53
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Took it in partial trade for the MSM. No real thread besides a half-assed FS thread on ClubRicer.

We're going to have to keep it for a couple months until i get the MX6 dialed back in. Will re-evaluate the idea of keeping vs. selling then.

Basically: red 95, built motor, 99 head, babydick Begi S1 kit, Megasquirt 2 Enhanced with some other stuff.
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #54
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Concealer, pics/thread on the car?
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:44 AM   #55
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Look how Miata.net this thing is.







Attached Thumbnails
Begi "Racer" re-route-20140222_124327.jpg   Begi "Racer" re-route-20140222_124337.jpg   Begi "Racer" re-route-20140222_124404.jpg   Begi "Racer" re-route-20140222_124352.jpg  
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Old 02-28-2014, 02:10 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Popped out Visio and drew away. Picture is worth a thousand words.
That was one of the best posts I've ever read on any forum. Well done sir! And thanks for the awesome summary.

Quote:
Begi spacer Plus Kia neck for $3 from local yard, plus thermostat of my choice, plus GM hose thing, plus a blockoff plate kit of some sort for the front, = awesomesauce?
Yup. I've had that exact setup on mine for a couple years. Awesomesauce indeed. And Begi sells (or used to sell) the Kia neck and block off plate too. Makes it easy to order everything at once.

Though when I ordered, it took them 3 shipments spaced over a couple months to get it right.
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:10 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revlimiter View Post
That was one of the best posts I've ever read on any forum. Well done sir! And thanks for the awesome summary.
Actually I reposted it as a separate thread where it got vetted by Brain. Made some adjustments to the write-up and diagrams based upon that. The other one is more accurate. Should probably bring those corrections into this thread as well.

Conclusion is the same though. BEGI's racer reroute is something to avoid.
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:20 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Look how Miata.net this thing is.
ermahgerd man, dat wing must go. Otherwise looks pretty neat, how does it run? built motor eh.. sounds like you should run ALLOFIT in typical concealer404 fashon.
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:40 PM   #59
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Runs pretty damn strong.

Not planning on turning up the boost anytime real soon. Don't even know how many pounds a 2554 has in it on a 1.8, to be quite honest. I never really anticipated ******* with a BP, so most of my "learning" i've gotten from this site is about transmissions and suspensions.

Hence my stupid-*** thread about the Racer Re-route.
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Runs pretty damn strong.

Not planning on turning up the boost anytime real soon. Don't even know how many pounds a 2554 has in it on a 1.8, to be quite honest. I never really anticipated ******* with a BP, so most of my "learning" i've gotten from this site is about transmissions and suspensions.

Hence my stupid-*** thread about the Racer Re-route.
Turn it up, like a man, 300ftlbs, 205hp.
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