Great. My seal is leaking too.

Gents,

Any reasonable method to determine if the seal on a new (to me) pump is OEM or a leaker? I'm ready with my build to install a Boundary stage II and the seal that is on this pump that I bought from 949 looks exactly like the one in the first post, making me think it's one the leaker seals? It's still in the bag, so I'm yet to feel how soft or hard it is.

Is the NPT plug you guys have referred to the one on the passenger side, side of the housing? What was the problem before with these? Cross threaded?

Thanks.

Mine pissed oil and slid right off the front of my crank after a short amount of time. I replaced it, no issues now.

Yes, it costs about $6, and it's called the "Buy a new OEM front main seal from Mazda and install it" method

Sorry to necro-thread folks, I just wanted to let folks know this appears to still be an ongoing issue, I need to pull my damper off to verify definitively. Anyone else have any (recent) reports of leaks with the pump/seal? I have the same black seal mentioned above in a pump I received only a few months ago from Fab9. My front end has a slow leak that I suspect is the FMS, I have less than 100 miles on the rebuild right now. One would think after all this time the issue would have been addressed...

Haven't heard any reports, but at this point I'm ready to remove the FMS from the assembly and let the users install their particular poison of FMS. Some swear by NGK, some OEM, some swear by some another Japanese brand *XYZ"?. We try to provide the best pump assembly we can, but if this item continues to be a problem for it, we are better off leaving it up to you guys to do final on it so you can install what you want because I've seen all of them leak at this point.

There are many factors affecting good seal, below are a few:

Install method: use of a light oil film on the crank is recommended along with pre-lubing the rubber with a small amount of oil to increase lubricity and reduce the chances of moving the tension spring out of position.
Line boring: will stress the seal on one side more then the other unless the pins for the oil pump are moved by a correlating amount
Surface finish: The surface of the crank should be free of rust and smoot (Ra16 or better with even lower numbers preferred)
Anerobic sealant on the OD of the pump seal boss to make sure oil is not getting from behind the seal forward.

The pump I received straight from Boundary and it still had a seal with these stampings.

The oem went on shortly thereafter.

Apparently fab9 tells folks to swap it out.

I forgot to put on the anaerobic sealant but hopefully it works out.

I do have to say that Travis is great to work with. I'm happy to continue working with him.

Ok, I have read the entire thread. I purchased a Boundary pump 2 years ago and chased an oil leak for 5 months. Mine had both no sealant and or not tight enough on the plug and the FMS leaking. I had an idiot run a bolt (too long) thru the housing and break the casting. (long story that I'm going to skip). I replaced the broken pump with a new Boundary and installed it only to find out that the FMS was leaking. I let Boundary know. I then purchased OEM seal from my local shop and installed it. I have just about 200 miles on this build and it is now leaking again.

Has anyone come up with the "magic" seal? If so what is the brand and part number? Thank you in advance.

First time around I just jammed it in, eyeballed the depth and it leaked. I didn't even realize there was a proper technique.

For the second time, I fixed it by using a factory seal, seating it with that FM front seal tool but before I put the seal in, I smeared right stuff around the outside. Once it was in, I put grease around the inside of the seal so it wouldn't get damaged on startup. No leaks so far.

Ok, Thanks. I now have to check and see if my FM front seal tool is still where I left it. I didn't know there was a proper installation depth either. Duh!
3rd times a charm on the same pump!