Anybody recommend using this, or the additive for first startup? I was just going to go with some dino oil but one of my buddies suggested this stuff instead. Input?

Like this: http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

Or this: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show

 

All the motors we've built we just used regular non-synth for the 1st 800-1000mi and never had any issues.

I haven't heard anyone report that stuff you linked being superior in any way. just my .02

 

I ran O'Reilly junk for ~15 minutes, drained, then filled with Rotella dino oil for 1000 miles and been on Rotella Synth ever since.

My builder told me to not worry about "break-in oil" because he used assembly lube, lol.

 

Ditto. I break in my engines with straight detergent 30wt. Napa brand. I just dont buy the royal purple hype. If you really want to protect your motor on startup, get the oil system primed before you crank it. That will make the biggest difference in longevity I think.

And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime.

 

My engine builder suggested Joe Gibbs BR (Break-In) oil.

It is about the same cost at Mobil 1 per quart ($7-8).

I learned a few things reading the technical info and "Training Center" at the Joe Gibbs Driven website. Some good info there, best I've seen from any oil manufacturer. Lots of info about oil for racing purposes and their products.

http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/index.html

 

lol whut

Break in oil should be changed after only a few miles, just long enough to break in the rings

 

Actually you're right: I changed my 1st oil at 300, then again at 800 and after 1k changed to synth.
Not after a few miles though.

 

That was my plan because I loaded the rings with assembly lube but I was going to seat the rings before the first draining.

I kinda thought it wasn't necessary but wanted to see what other people were doing to gauge my decision. I am planning on cranking the car with the fuel pump cutout to prime the engine till we see oil being pumped up to the head. Also it's a 99 head so no need to prime the hla's


Thanks for the input MT!

 

Its probably alright, but pretty much all the break-in shavings happen almost immediately, which is why I change it out right away and then ride out like normal.

 

Dude, if you have "metal shavings" then something is seriously wrong. Break-in is about the grain-structure on the face of each friction surfacel, not grinding down the rings. lol

I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent.

 

We do break-in on the dyno and use vacuum decel readings to decide when the rings are fully seated, then change the oil, and then tune the car. The first oil change typically happens with ~40 miles on the odometer.

 

I honed mine with my *******
your argument is invalid

 

I used Napa non-detergent 30wt oil, took out the spark plugs and cranked it over until I saw the oil pressure gauge move, then fired it up. Changed it after the motor was broken in on the dyno

 

I'd like to see your shlong in this thread.

 

Well I guess shavings isnt the right word, but every engine I have ever built has had fine metallic "stuff" in the oil after initial break in which goes away immediately.

 

How many inches in mercury do you look for as a sign that the rings are seated? Between 20 and 30?

 

I broke my motor in by cranking it about three million times, then getting it to run horribly on a bad tank full of gas which was exposed to air for 6 months.

 

I still have an unopened can of the engine primer that FM sells. I'll sell it to you for what they sell it for but I will overnight it for free.

 

I'm going to go with 30".

 

My awesome engine never made more the 28" in overrun and has 3% leak.