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Old 07-02-2012, 02:52 PM   #21
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No if its stuck open you just end up not sending all the oil through the filter. If its stuck closed you just send practically no oil through the engine until the oil is hot enough to go through the filter.
You don't understand what we are referring to. We're talking about the pressure relief plunger in the oil pump, not the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter. The pressure relief plunger is notorious for sticking in its bore, and it's the primary reason why I will never, ever re-use an oil pump.

I've had this exact issue (stuck oil pump relief valve), it caused this exact symptom (no oil pressure on initial start-up).
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:33 PM   #22
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I'm not talking about the anti-drain back valve.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:50 PM   #23
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BE oil pump, where's a good source for that? Any other suggestions?
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:01 AM   #24
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BE is Boundary Engineering, a site sponsor.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:25 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I'm not talking about the anti-drain back valve.
Neither is he.
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #26
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You're in a huge pile of crap... easiest thing to do might be to pull oil pan and check/replace spring assembly in the oil pump...which is still a bitch.

You might want to take off the oil sensor and start the car quickly without it. This may "flush" out anything clogging that passage way, especially if you have a T where the sensor is for turbo feed.

also take out allen key'd inspection bolt that you can see on top of the oil pump and do the same thing.

If you have even low oil pressure, it will be messy when you turn it over.
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:43 PM   #27
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I'm pulling the engine and rebuilding, prob forged pistons/rods and a new oil pump. Added a manual gauge last night and had 0psi when cranking, so cars down for a few weeks to see what all is damaged.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:42 PM   #28
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I went over this with an experienced master mechanic and shop owner who said the symptoms sounded right for a bad seal between the pickup tube and oil pump or too much clearance within the oil pump. He said he had to pull one apart before because one of his mechanics didn't get the paper gasket between the pick up tube and the pump lined up right or it slipped when tightened somehow. Good luck.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #29
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I would hate to pull the engine and the pan to check the pickup tube. I would kill myself if I resealed the pickup tube and got the car back together just to have the same problem.

Your theory sounds like it may be my problem, but I would just dread having to repull it lol But if you feel like my pickup tube is the problem, it's worth a shot to save some money. I just need to inspect the relief valve and if that seems alright than I will slap it all back together. I really wish I didn't have to pull the engine just to check that damn pump
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:06 PM   #30
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It is possible to pull the oil pan with the engine in the car but it involves hoisting it up and disconnecting the motor mounts. Maybe you will find something obvious you can point your finger at. It would be great not to have to pull all of the timing gear and accessories off the front of the engine unnecessarily.

If you find something I would say inspect a couple of bearings before calling it fixed and buttoning it up.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:32 PM   #31
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I just found that out. I'll go over my oil very well and pop a few caps to see if there is any damage done. Thanks sixshooter, and everyone else, I will most likely be doing it this weekend if I decide not to race.
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:21 AM   #32
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accumulator for baller status.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:27 AM   #33
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Well pulled the engine tonight and got some bad results. Pan has aluminum shavings in the bottom of it and my release valve was barely stuck open. My only thought on the aluminum shavings would be the head. It looks like it is casting from the head (rough texture like the top of the heads valley and it doesn't stick with a magnet)

I would guess when my machinist milled the head it wasn't cleaned properly. I don't see any other reasons I would have aluminum shavings in my oil pan. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:31 AM   #34
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Pics of the shavings? I know a chip when I see one, so we can go yay or nay on machining left overs pretty quick.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:36 AM   #35
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Give me a few minutes Leafy, my phone may take some ---- photos so work with me here lol All I can tell you is that it is aluminum!
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:55 AM   #36
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Sorry for the blurry pics, hard to hold the gopro steady, 3rd pic is a video
Attached Thumbnails
Building oil pressure-gopr0028.jpg   Building oil pressure-gopr0029.jpg   Building oil pressure-th_gopr0031.jpg  
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:37 AM   #37
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A few I didn't take pics of looked like if you were to bit and rip off your fingernail. Just small half moon shaped shavings. This is the biggest piece I found. Magnet wouldn't stick it so I know it's not bearings.... unless these are aluminum bearings >_> lol
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:28 AM   #38
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Cant really tell the pic is blurry. Does it have well defined edges and gets thinner right new the edge?
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:49 AM   #39
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Looks like shavings from drilling/tapping....oil pan maybe??
I had a lot in my first engine from the previous owner doing this...even with greasing everything there were a lot of shavings in pan itself.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:42 PM   #40
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I'll agree that half moon fingernail aluminum pieces sounds like drilling and tapping debris or possibly machine shop debris as you proposed. Both relief valves and the pumps themselves don't respond well to that garbage. Cam bearings and crank bearings make your oil glittery when they wear and hopefully you aren't seeing that.

I'd definitely pull at least a cap or two from the crank and the cams to inspect for damage while you are in there. If everything looks good and your lifter gallery looks clean, you might want to just clean out the pan and pickup tube and put a fresh oil pump in there. If any of that has made it to the bearings I would have to pull the crank and flush the oil galleries out in the head and block - major disassembly.
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