You have to solder four jumper wires from the MS3Pro module to the PNP adapter connector or the Auxiliary connector. If doing it to the PNP adapter, choose wires that are not being used in the stock harness that are close by your desired location. If to the aux, run new wires. I guess you can also run new wires from the PNP adapter since likely not all the pins are being used on the connector.

Or give up on the $100 fittings you bought and run the PWM IAC remotely off the vac block. Make a bracket below the ITB manifold or something and just run a hose to the valve.

 

I would like to, but at this point in for a penny in for a pound, and soldering wires from the MS3 main board to run into the engine bay does not scare me away.
I wish it was only $100 I would toss, but the valve I have is $170 alone. Probably somewhere in the 300 range right now, and I like the way the vacuum setup looks. Still waiting to hear back from diyautotune. I appreciate everyone's input and apologies if I come across as stubborn or hard headed.

 

Forgot to update the thread so don't mind the bump.

Ditched the nice pretty expensive IAC valve. DIYAutoTune says the MS3PNP can do it but there is a lot of wiring involved and they kept being intentionally vague. I have decided to reuse the Miata IAC and use an adapter plate to hook it up.
Vacuum routing is this:

Copy/paste from another forum:
Orientation is still ongoing. I need to get the car in the air and see what room I have under the ITB manifold to mount this stuff.
Not the catch can I will be using as this is a vented can. I have another can with a valved drain that is unvented I will be using instead. Spin off the oil filter during oil change and then open the valve to the catch can right beside it. Effecient!
Vibrant block:
Left 90* is for MAP sensor
4 small down pointed ones go to each runner
Right big one goes to brake booster
Bottom center big one goes down to the T fitting, then goes to the IAC valve and the catch can, then catch can to upgraded PCV in valve cover.


Got the ITBs in and sent them back. They did not add the barbs on the runner, and mounted the ITBs upside down. Apparently this is so you can still use the OEM injectors and rail. No mention of this on the website so they are sent back to get the ITBs flipped correctly and the barbs put on.

Ditching the GM IAT sensor as it is **** huge and I do not want to drill into the nice K&N filter plate caps. I will be using a VW/Audi IAT sensor that will be mounted on the threaded bolt inside the filter assembly.

 

Relavent to what I just did, maybe this helps. This is Radium's Miata dual catch can kit. I put a -6 bulk head in the sausage filter mounting plate. I also drilled a .7" hole in it, just a Miata PCV grommet, and stuck the factory NB AIT sensor in the plate, fit perfectly. You can see it in front of the #1 throttle body. Never had a chance to put a MAP sensor in the crank case and see if the catch can setup worked properly, but in theory it should.

 

Thanks for the picture curly! I have been on ClubRoadster as they are the only miata ITB specific forum I have found but they are super dead. All the pictures are from photobucket, if that tells you anything.

I would love to do the stock IAT sensor, but the grommet is huge. The GM IAT sensor is also huge, as far as a mounting point goes. I am running "dual weber" style ITBs, and am using a K&N Weber filter assembly as the filters.


There is a 3.25" tall filter and a 6" tall filter. I have found 4" high velocity stacks that fit inside the filter, and am running a longer oval head bolt to secure it. The bolt passes right through this sensor and fits inside the assembly itself. Now I only have to drill a hole small enough for 2 wires to pass through with a grommet.
Sensor:




You can see the mounting nut just inside.