You have to solder four jumper wires from the MS3Pro module to the PNP adapter connector or the Auxiliary connector. If doing it to the PNP adapter, choose wires that are not being used in the stock harness that are close by your desired location. If to the aux, run new wires. I guess you can also run new wires from the PNP adapter since likely not all the pins are being used on the connector.

Or give up on the $100 fittings you bought and run the PWM IAC remotely off the vac block. Make a bracket below the ITB manifold or something and just run a hose to the valve.

 

I would like to, but at this point in for a penny in for a pound, and soldering wires from the MS3 main board to run into the engine bay does not scare me away.
I wish it was only $100 I would toss, but the valve I have is $170 alone. Probably somewhere in the 300 range right now, and I like the way the vacuum setup looks. Still waiting to hear back from diyautotune. I appreciate everyone's input and apologies if I come across as stubborn or hard headed.

 

Forgot to update the thread so don't mind the bump.

Ditched the nice pretty expensive IAC valve. DIYAutoTune says the MS3PNP can do it but there is a lot of wiring involved and they kept being intentionally vague. I have decided to reuse the Miata IAC and use an adapter plate to hook it up.
Vacuum routing is this:

Copy/paste from another forum:
Orientation is still ongoing. I need to get the car in the air and see what room I have under the ITB manifold to mount this stuff.
Not the catch can I will be using as this is a vented can. I have another can with a valved drain that is unvented I will be using instead. Spin off the oil filter during oil change and then open the valve to the catch can right beside it. Effecient!
Vibrant block:
Left 90* is for MAP sensor
4 small down pointed ones go to each runner
Right big one goes to brake booster
Bottom center big one goes down to the T fitting, then goes to the IAC valve and the catch can, then catch can to upgraded PCV in valve cover.


Got the ITBs in and sent them back. They did not add the barbs on the runner, and mounted the ITBs upside down. Apparently this is so you can still use the OEM injectors and rail. No mention of this on the website so they are sent back to get the ITBs flipped correctly and the barbs put on.

Ditching the GM IAT sensor as it is **** huge and I do not want to drill into the nice K&N filter plate caps. I will be using a VW/Audi IAT sensor that will be mounted on the threaded bolt inside the filter assembly.

 

Relavent to what I just did, maybe this helps. This is Radium's Miata dual catch can kit. I put a -6 bulk head in the sausage filter mounting plate. I also drilled a .7" hole in it, just a Miata PCV grommet, and stuck the factory NB AIT sensor in the plate, fit perfectly. You can see it in front of the #1 throttle body. Never had a chance to put a MAP sensor in the crank case and see if the catch can setup worked properly, but in theory it should.

 

Thanks for the picture curly! I have been on ClubRoadster as they are the only miata ITB specific forum I have found but they are super dead. All the pictures are from photobucket, if that tells you anything.

I would love to do the stock IAT sensor, but the grommet is huge. The GM IAT sensor is also huge, as far as a mounting point goes. I am running "dual weber" style ITBs, and am using a K&N Weber filter assembly as the filters.


There is a 3.25" tall filter and a 6" tall filter. I have found 4" high velocity stacks that fit inside the filter, and am running a longer oval head bolt to secure it. The bolt passes right through this sensor and fits inside the assembly itself. Now I only have to drill a hole small enough for 2 wires to pass through with a grommet.
Sensor:




You can see the mounting nut just inside.

 

Came across this thread and you guys seem to know a thing or two so here goes...
In the photo below I'm running both valve cover lines to a catch can which is vented to atmosphere. (Not a Turbo setup - I know, wrong forum etc.)

The problem:
If I go for a short spirited run I push almost 1/2 cup of oil into the can!





Where to look first?
Rings? - Engine is old and high mileage (165k) but there is a lack of history. Compression test is great and even across all cylinders (haven't done leak down).
MSP2/Tune? - I mostly don't know what I'm doing regarding the tune, the car runs rich given the sooty spark plugs but runs well otherwise (anyone have a decent ITB base tune?)
Venting lines too small? - Not running PCV. I highlighted both lines running to can as lack of venting seems to be a popular topic on Miata forums.
Something else?

 

I might have found the answer having read hector's post at the end of the thread over here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...m_content=post

Opinions still welcomed!

 

Read the catchcan sticky.

Tiny hole mod plus media in last chamber. And put man-sized hoses to the catchcan.

Job done.

 

A 1/2 cup is a lot. I would think that means a lot of blow-by. Leak down test for sure and definitely look at the tune and make sure your AFR's are not washing down the rings. I run around 13.5 AFR's at WOT but YMMV.

Looking at the picture though, the PCV side line is forming a trap which could be rendering that line useless and forcing all the crankcase pressure out the other side. I don't know that this would cause excessive oil being pushed out though.

About the only other thing would be lack of baffles around the ports. I can't say I'm familiar with your valve cover and it's baffles, but any OEM arrangement would bring baffles to deflect as much oil away from the port.

 

Thanks @hector and @Gee Emm
Valve cover is OEM on the inside but will read the sticky re catch cans and the mods to do. I had been reading that it needs more venting flow than what's stock so that's promising.
My AFRs are probably totally out of whack too and I suspected I was washing out the rings, do you have a recommendation on setting that up? (total and I mean TOTAL noob here)

 

I did my WOT tuning on a dyno and do not have EGO control enabled at WOT, but again YMMV. My WBo2 and the dyno WBo2 were pretty much spot on so I can say with good confidence that what the AFR's I was seeing were actual. The engine seemed to like 13.5 give or take for most of the range. I wasn't tuning to an AFR number, I was tuning for max power. But I feel fairly comfortable saying that most engines like this (and most NA engines in general) will make best power at around 13:1 AFR or just a bit higher.

So I would assume you have a wideband o2 sensor hooked up to your ECU and that your ECU has an autotune feature. If this is the case, that's your easy button. Set up the WOT AFR's to be at 13:1 and let the autotune do the rest. When you can get the car on the dyno, turn off the autotune feature and tune for best power. That's how I got a good baseline for my car to do final tuning of WOT on the dyno.

You don't mention what ECU you have but pretty much all of them have online manuals and email tech support that can give you guidance or at least point you to resources that would help to get you started.

 

The amount of searching through pages of threads for "tiny hole mod" is ridiculous. Should be mentioned in the catch can sticky? Here is a thread with photos.

 

I think it's actually linked in there but yeah, long thread.

This should suffice

 

I just wanted to wrap the thread up with my plan on the catch can/PCV:

Going to put a filter on the exhaust side nipple
Running the 323GTX PCV to unvented catch can
Catch can to 4th runner barb (brake booster hookup)

Also picked up a spare valve cover to drill out and stuff copper scrubber into, like how the first page of the tiny hole thread states. I know I am not turbo but down the line it would be nice to slap one on and not worry about "extra work".