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Old 10-27-2015, 12:13 AM   #1
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Default Check my 1.8 build parts

Anything I should add or take away?
Looking for 300-350 whp
Probably be left around 300 most the time, even less until the 5 speed is swapped for the 6 speed.

96 block 99 head, car is al ready boosted.
Boundary engineering oil pump
K1 rods
Fly miata Wiseco or supertech pistons
Acl bearings
Arp main studs
Oem head bolts (fuse)
Cometic gaskets kit
New oem water pump
Gates timing belt kit
Supertech valve spring kit. What weight should I choose?.

What about a coolent re route? What kit are most people using?

I know I still have a lot of reading to do, just hoping some of you guys can direct me with some feed back.

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:26 AM   #2
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Fuel pump, head studs, computer, injectors, radiator, re route, intercooler, oem gaskets, 3" down pipe & exhaust, V band connections, inconel studs for the turbo, stage 8 locking harware, brakes, brake lines. Probably a bunch more stuff.
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:23 AM   #3
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Fuel pump, head studs, computer, injectors, radiator, re route, intercooler, oem gaskets, 3" down pipe & exhaust, V band connections, inconel studs for the turbo, stage 8 locking harware, brakes, brake lines. Probably a bunch more stuff.
Thanks for the feed back, I'm really concerned about inside the engine as once it's built, I don't want to reopen it.

My car is already turbo, so much of that stuff is already installed.

I've been reading some guys prefer oem head bolts as a fuse so if any thing goes hopefully it will be the head gasket.
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:37 AM   #4
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Then yes, you listed the four big parts of an engine..you didn't include what type of machine work, and I don't see why you would want a fuse in an engine. Driveline maybe. You don't list what your external parts are, that why I listed them. Some old Rc 440's probably won't support your 350 hp, and neither will an old clutch.

I'm just making observations over a cell phone connection.
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:37 AM   #5
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I've been reading some guys prefer oem head bolts as a fuse so if any thing goes hopefully it will be the head gasket.
Where have you been reading that from miata guys? I have never heard of any saying that. The majority of us run ARP head bolts with no problems. Head gaskets generally are not an issue in the miata world.
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:51 AM   #6
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I also forgot to add ignition coils. Stockers won't do it, and toyotas could be troublesome.

I am getting close to the finish line of what you are about to do. It will cost 3x what you think, and take way longer. Be careful bro.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:18 PM   #7
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Where have you been reading that from miata guys? I have never heard of any saying that. The majority of us run ARP head bolts with no problems. Head gaskets generally are not an issue in the miata world.
"Miata dot net"don't make fun. And that's the exact reason I'm asking here. I don't mind arp head studs, I just don't want to spend money on parts that arent necessary for my power levels.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:24 PM   #8
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Everything is important at 350 hp., if you want it to last longer than a month or two.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
I also forgot to add ignition coils. Stockers won't do it, and toyotas could be troublesome.

I am getting close to the finish line of what you are about to do. It will cost 3x what you think, and take way longer. Be careful bro.
I can respect experience. The car currently runs about 210 whp, with a old stand alone link ecu, once the engine is built I'll probably tune it back to 230 range, and install a Ms pnp immediately before initial startup, as money and parts become available upgrade trans and diff.

I have the wrlboro 255 fuel pump, and a m tuned dual feed fuel rail. I will need to adress the coils as power increases.

I have a upgraded radiator, upgraded brakes, fm2.5 suspension.

Dose it still sound like I don't know how much things will cost? Cause I don't want to spend 3x what I'm thinking, that would be very very bad. The engine alone should cost about $ 4-5k according to my parts list and machine shop prices here locally.

This is the 3rd time I've looked at building, but since I lost a bearing I actually HAVE to build my spare engine now.

Car will be DD and few auto X a year.

Do you have a build thread I could read over?
Thanks again.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by nixer600 View Post
"Miata dot net"don't make fun. And that's the exact reason I'm asking here. I don't mind arp head studs, I just don't want to spend money on parts that arent necessary for my power levels.
I would go with ARP head studs over ARP main bolts, but that is just me. You are supposed to line bore where the crank goes if you use the ARP main studs. I was to lazy/cheap to pay for the machine shop to do that.

The supertech valve spring kit is also probably overkill unless you are planning on revving higher then 7200rpms.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:51 PM   #11
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Sounds like you have a solid idea/ plan.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nixer600 View Post
Anything I should add or take away?
Looking for 300-350 whp
Probably be left around 300 most the time, even less until the 5 speed is swapped for the 6 speed.

96 block 99 head, car is al ready boosted.
Boundary engineering oil pump
K1 rods
Fly miata Wiseco or supertech pistons
Acl bearings
Arp main studs
Oem head bolts (fuse)
Cometic gaskets kit
New oem water pump
Gates timing belt kit
Supertech valve spring kit. What weight should I choose?.

What about a coolent re route? What kit are most people using?

Thanks.
Coolant reroute, 949Racing sells m-tuned reroutes. Or you can fab up your own similar to BEGi's.

If you're doing a reroute I hear it's highly recommended to go with a 99 head gasket (I could be wrong , someone else may be able to chime in on this)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
Everything is important at 350 hp., if you want it to last longer than a month or two.
This.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nixer600 View Post
I can respect experience. The car currently runs about 210 whp, with a old stand alone link ecu, once the engine is built I'll probably tune it back to 230 range, and install a Ms pnp immediately before initial startup, as money and parts become available upgrade trans and diff.

I have the wrlboro 255 fuel pump, and a m tuned dual feed fuel rail. I will need to adress the coils as power increases.

Dose it still sound like I don't know how much things will cost? Cause I don't want to spend 3x what I'm thinking, that would be very very bad. The engine alone should cost about $ 4-5k according to my parts list and machine shop prices here locally.

This is the 3rd time I've looked at building, but since I lost a bearing I actually HAVE to build my spare engine now.

Car will be DD and few auto X a year.

Do you have a build thread I could read over?
Thanks again.
Expect to spend more than you planned on spending. Especially if you're having a machine shop do the work and building your motor.

On valve spring kit, depending on your current springs (if they're not springy enough) a set of single springs kit would be a good replacement.
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