props for putting some work in dude... im with everyone on the 1.8, but you did well with what you chose to go with.

that interior screams: Must use gloves during operation.

Especially in Phoenix. Lol

I'm gonna buy a duracon shift knob and leather wheel also probably for that reason

I honestly didn't think it was possible for an 80s vintage Camaro to have AIDS.



Now I know better.

No crazy pulls yet, car was breaking up at .5 bar, but tuning still needs to be done. Wiring diagrams have been all over the place and a mess to follow thus far, but it started first try!

because of all the AIDS?

something like that.

We got the car mostly tuned, enough to go drifting and have a shitload of fun. Things could be cleaned up but here she is in most of her glory. I know the video is shit and so is my shifter.

18psi & E85 guessing roughly 280-320whp (made 200whp @10psi on 91)

Drove it in texas this past weekend at a drifting event, I'll spare you guys pictures

at 18psi the car is a ton of fun. I need to set up the boost controller still to help combat some of the lag, as of current it is just running off wastegate spring.

we only added a couple degrees of timing to my old map and cleaned up the fueling for E 85 and I'm super excited, it's pretty fast and significantly faster than my old setup (10psi in a miata).

My only problem in two full days of drifting was that the motor would randomly stall mid drift while floored. Everything felt like the car just shut down for a split second then would come on again like nothing had happened.

My only possible solutions are these:

First, fuel lines run parallel to the exhaust from the gas tank forward, relocating the soft lines to the cold side of the car so they don't run right along side the down pipe (possible vapor lock/lean condition)

Second, my coil packs didn't have a hold down because of how tightly they fit originally. By the end of the second day they were loose, and i brought extras to use but the shut down problem continued.

My last two possibilities are just guesses, but maybe one of the (fuses/grounds/sensors is loose) or my CAS is shitting the bed. Hopefully its not the CAS because I have to pull the motor if that's the case

sounds fun. Kind of miss sliding my rhd Miata.

get it painted, post some pics.

It's painted

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375845772

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375845772

Looks like some intense oversteer. Might want less springrate in the rear and more front bar. Should help a lot with lap times.

AH! That makes perfect sense! I'm already at a 5k spring with a helper, so perhaps adding the nascar bar to the front may help my case! I battled traction issues all weekend. Looking into good quality tires for next time perhaps

Fantastic build, car looks great.

Dann

inb4 obligatory crushed fender pics.

Nice build, well done, not my kind of motorsport but a well done build. I would lose the side skirts though, eventually you will remove them, planned or not.

Another update, FINALLY VIDEO OF SWEET SWEET NOISES. Clearly the most important thing.



After the P1 event George and Joe both told me that my car sucked at full lock and that something was wrong with it. I didn't know any better so I was just driving around the problem. My wheels were rubbing on the frame rails and possibly the top of the wheel well. The only answer was to hammer the wheel well and push the wheels further out. I've been talking to George about doing these lower ball joints for a while and I had all the parts to he helped me put them in the car. Huge thanks to those two dudes for the continual help on making my car rad.

It's estimated that these control arms give me another 25+mm over stock, which is about 15mm more than my previous ball joints (extended stock). I got to go drifting again and the car felt 100x better. It gets way more angle and will drive at full lock without question and not spin out. I can't believe what a difference they made and I'm so happy with the front end of the car now. I think the front end of the car is running around -9* of camber and 1/8" toe out and maybe 7* of caster which all feels pretty amazing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403194512

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403194512

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403194512

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403194512

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403194512




The next problem is that when I pull the ebrake at high angle it wants to spin out. Idk if it has to do with the weight balance of the car or the rear alignment settings, so I'm going to start playing with those. There are more exciting parts that Maverick is producing so Those are going to go on the car and hopefully help with my camber settings. I plan to lower the front a little and take some of my reverse rake out to shift more weight over the nose of the car, I'm thinking that the rotating point of the car is too far rearward and when the ass end hangs out it wants to come around the front of the car. The only other thing might be my toe settings/adjusters in the rear doing funky things. Going to look into all of that now that the front end seems sorted out.

is the joint for your steering hitting the brake rotor?

as far as setting balance, do you have access to a set of scales? That might help with a starting point to see what your changing around. I would agree with adding weight over the front. Just remember when you do that your going to need more tire to get the same grip.

How is the wear across the rear tire? I always found with my Miata and s13 that is I could get even wear on the tire, I didn't like the way it drove. A LIIIIITLE rear camber was nice. something about a degree, or a degree and a half in the rear on the s13 (which was barely wearing out the inside down to the chords while the outside was bald, but not down to the wires)

:party:

I was just going to quote that! How'd you guess.