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Could it be in the tune?

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Old 05-06-2016, 06:08 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Rear Sport brakes offer a poor pad selection.
I'm using carbotech ax6. Wasn't aware of any pad selection issues, but then again, all I'm after is a better bias.
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Old 11-14-2016, 03:04 PM
  #22  
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So I've ran the car at five or more auto cross events. I have added a larger rear brake set up and 275 Hoosiers on 15x10's. The car feels great and have even set FTD at a couple.

But now I'm getting to where I know I need more power and a higher redline. So I decided to revive an old thread and get some input from you guys.

I was thinking of swapping the head to VVT and purchasing a better oil pump, crank dampener, and higher compression pistons to go along with it. Since I want to rev it to the neighborhood of 8-9k, I'm wanting to be on the safe side and also have the head built. 949racing sells a cnc'd head that I believe will be reliable.

You can see what's done to the car in this thread. I'd love to hear some feedback because I'm sure I'm forgetting something or maybe there is a better way.
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:02 PM
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9k will result in an intimate analysis of the grain structure internal to the crankshaft
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:01 PM
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^This.

But the idea of a 949 head is a good one.

140whp is good for the early 1.8. They were rated at 133 crank hp fro the factory and often make 120 or less at the wheels.
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Old 11-15-2016, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
^This.

But the idea of a 949 head is a good one.

140whp is good for the early 1.8. They were rated at 133 crank hp fro the factory and often make 120 or less at the wheels.
I agree that the crank is a weak point, although I can't recall the rpm range it will go to while balanced to the rest of the rotating assembly. A billet crank would be the way to go, although I want to keep it safe within the limits of the stock shaft and see how that goes before throwing a wad of cash at one.

What is the early 1.8 with a 949 VVT head capable of in my case? 7800 limit with @170whp?
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrible01
I agree that the crank is a weak point, although I can't recall the rpm range it will go to while balanced to the rest of the rotating assembly. A billet crank would be the way to go, although I want to keep it safe within the limits of the stock shaft and see how that goes before throwing a wad of cash at one.

What is the early 1.8 with a 949 VVT head capable of in my case? 7800 limit with @170whp?
If Emilio ever sends mine out, I'll let you know. Will have the VVT CNC Head with a 1995 block.

EDIT: Baseline for my car was 105 whp. Hoping for 150 with head, full exhaust, intake, and MS3.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dleavitt
If Emilio ever sends mine out, I'll let you know. Will have the VVT CNC Head with a 1995 block.

EDIT: Baseline for my car was 105 whp. Hoping for 150 with head, full exhaust, intake, and MS3.
What will the compression ratio be?

I'm in no hurry, so I'll definitely keep an eye out for the results!
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrible01
What will the compression ratio be?

I'm in no hurry, so I'll definitely keep an eye out for the results!
Bottom end is stock, so 9:1. Not the best for max NA power, but it's what I have.
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrible01
And a few pics for reference.. This is during the motor swap
Just saw this pic. That intake is awful. Steel is a no go. Needs to be aluminum to get rid of heat when you open throttle. Steel has much higher thermal mass and lower thermal inertia. It gets hot and stays hot.
Mandrel bends are key, particularly near the TB where you need to retain velocity. Yours also changes cross sectional shape and area. Both are bad. You set up resonance waves in there with those changes. Keep the ID constant from the TB to the filter. Increase the radius of that first bend at the TB as much as you can. That intake is costing you 5whp when the hood is closed.

MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - 180whp 152tq CNC head
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:24 PM
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the man has spoken

now fix your car
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Old 11-18-2016, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Just saw this pic. That intake is awful. Steel is a no go. Needs to be aluminum to get rid of heat when you open throttle. Steel has much higher thermal mass and lower thermal inertia. It gets hot and stays hot.
Mandrel bends are key, particularly near the TB where you need to retain velocity. Yours also changes cross sectional shape and area. Both are bad. You set up resonance waves in there with those changes. Keep the ID constant from the TB to the filter. Increase the radius of that first bend at the TB as much as you can. That intake is costing you 5whp when the hood is closed.

MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - 180whp 152tq CNC head
Thanks Emilio, every bit helps. Do you have a pic of a intake that is to those dimensions ?

Originally Posted by 18psi
the man has spoken

now fix your car
LOL


I know right, but he's got a point. I never would have saw that and none of the folks posting here did either. Glad to have him around.
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