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Old 06-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Did you measure the clearances?
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You're missing an oil jet.
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Two, actually.


In for epic engine carnage, from half-*** assembly.


We don't need no me-sur-ants, this is 'murica!
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:31 PM   #22
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Yes, its all good now, and I removed all of the oil jets, placed a bolt on each oil hole instead.

Applied 40 ft. of torque, in a four stage torque sequence starting at 15, 25, 35 and ending at 40. It rotates freely now with minimal 5 ft. of torque, crank end play within specs.

People here swear to be a good "mod" for better oil pressure (removing the oil jets).

FYI: Its a Kia Sephia engine.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:51 PM   #23
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I doubt you'll see a change in the oil pressure gauge, the relief valve will compensate for that, but less oil will be circulating in the free atmosphere, slowing down your pistons.

Although they're advisable for turbo builds FYI.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:15 PM   #24
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BUT DID YOU MEASURE THE OIL CLEARANCES????
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:58 PM   #25
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No. He he didnt.

He just doesnt get it.

Dann
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:45 PM   #26
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I understand the mentality. He doesn't want to learn and resists the efforts to force cognizance upon him. She will be with child before he is prepared, through no fault of the child.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:34 AM   #27
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To be fair, I hate checking clearances myself. Granted these are all stock and usually numbers matching parts, but I've never found anything that needed machining, and anything but standard sized bearings.

What kind of wear needs to happen to need different bearings and machining of the crank? Do miata engines taper first? Or just wear down that .001" required to be too small?
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
Applied 40 ft. of torque, in a four stage torque sequence starting at 15, 25, 35 and ending at 40. It rotates freely now with minimal 5 ft. of torque, crank end play within specs.
I'd try to explain why this is poor form, but you clearly have no interest in taking our advice. Good luck.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:14 AM   #29
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What everyone is trying to tell you is that even though your machine shop is good, they can make mistakes. Also the fact that you mixed up the caps makes the situation risky.

Yes the crank may spin freely, but that does not mean all is well. There could be a cap that is too loose because it is the wrong one, and the only way to verify it is to do a simple test with plastigauge. Also, a crank may spin freely, but the clearances may still be too tight for normal operation for your application.

One simple test....
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:01 AM   #30
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I have received improperly labeled or boxed bearings. It is preferable to notice these things when the engine is on the stand.
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