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Yeah, I didn't even notice there was a discrepancy in the threading. I also just got the big kit of copper washers from HF for $5. It's got a size that works for both upper and lower banjo bolts. 2x washers for both bolts & you should be GTG.
Just double-checking... I also was unable to salvage the cam and crank angle plugs from my donor VVT engine and am wiring new plugs from scratch, and want to verify the pin order for both. The above post indicates the order (facing the sensor receptacle) from left to right is GRND / SIG / +12V. The 2005 wiring diagram (snippet below) show that the pin order is the same for both cam and crank sensors but the GRND and +12V pins seem to be reversed vs. the post above. Or perhaps I'm reading the diagram backwards. Can someone verify?
crap, my attachments didn't work as expected above. Below is the snippet from the 2005 wiring diagram. If I'm reading it correctly the GRND is on the left side in the diagram, but it would be on the right if facing the sensor. Post 402 shows a picture of the CAM sensor with GRND labeled on the left side. Is post 402 correct and I'm reading the diagram wrong?
Hi guys!
I just finished my swap today, and wired everything together. I have an EUDM 96 so its a 1.6 so the wiring was a bit different and the car wont start. Its cranking, the oil perssure is up, the o2 sensor is calibrated and the MS3X can see it, also I have coolant temp so some things work, but the car won't start. I also don't have TPS, when I turn the ignition on it starts at 24% and slowly creeps to 34% and just stops there (I tried calibrating but it reads the same). So I started sniffing around the engine bay to look for clues and I noticed that the 01 coils were getting really hot, so I turned the ignition off and unplugged the battery.
I started measuring things and the really weird thing is that the coils power (Black/White) and the ground (Black) are CONNECTED somehow. And I couldn't figure out where. Also on the ignitor side I connected it as per the OP instructions I crimped together 1 and 2, 8 and 7 and left the rest, oddly I don't have wire number 5 the Black/White wire on the ignitor. I used the coil connector to hook it up to the Coils. So I started disconnecting things and the 12 V BLUE (number 3) connector on the ignitor is still connected to the black(number 6) ground wire.
I don't really know what could be up, tomorrow I will start pulling all the things I made, connector wise and keep measuring connection between the BLUE and BLACK wire on the ignitor to see if any of the connections are wrong.
Btw I have a MS3 with the X extension and it has a DIY 97 1.8 wiring harness.
If any of you have any clue as what could this possibly be or any tips or leads I can start on, it would be greatly appriciated as this whole thing let me down a bunch.
Thank you!!!
HI!, I would like to ask for your help with my swap, I have a miata 97 and I bought an NB2 engine, I followed this post: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...t-swap-into-90 -97-chassis-megathread-80469 / I have Megasquirt 2 MSPNP2 V1.3a the other code that I have on the board is MSPNP2-MM9697 V1.1 (c) 2013 DIYAUTOTUNE.COM The problem is that the megasquirt does not read the signal from the cam sensor, the trigger blinks that recognizes the crankshaft when the engine turns and only the cam signal is missing. Please your help is the only thing left to get back on track. Thank you!
Last edited by Braineack; Apr 11, 2019 at 07:48 PM.
Good afternoon, I would like to ask for your help with my swap, I have a miata 97 and I bought an NB2 engine, I followed this post: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...t-swap-into-90 -97-chassis-megathread-80469 / I have Megasquirt 2 MSPNP2 V1.3a the other code that I have on the board is MSPNP2-MM9697 V1.1 (c) 2013 DIYAUTOTUNE.COM The problem is that the megasquirt does not read the signal from the cam sensor, the trigger blinks that recognizes the crankshaft when the engine turns and only the cam signal is missing. Please your help is the only thing left to get back on track. Thank you!
Hey guys, I just wanted to add that I am in the parts gathering phase for vvt swapping my 1.6 miata. In doing some research and finding some pictures online I found this connector. I bought it on a whim and sure enough it fits the cas connector where the cas would connect. So without splicing anything or cutting off my stock cas connector I am able to have the 4 wires from the cas to connect to the cam and crank sensors. I've been trying to make everything as plug and play as possible with as little cutting of the chassis harness as possible.
Hey guys, I just wanted to add that I am in the parts gathering phase for vvt swapping my 1.6 miata. In doing some research and finding some pictures online I found this connector. I bought it on a whim and sure enough it fits the cas connector where the cas would connect. So without splicing anything or cutting off my stock cas connector I am able to have the 4 wires from the cas to connect to the cam and crank sensors. I've been trying to make everything as plug and play as possible with as little cutting of the chassis harness as possible.
What I am looking for now is a connector that would plug in in place of the 1.6 igniter to run the vvt ignition coils. I am not that thrilled about de-pinning my stock connector to put on a nb style one.
Also, I could not find it on bmotorsports but for people looking for the connector for the air intake temp sensor that would connect on the stock 1.6 afm wiring, I found on speedyefi that they had that connector. I have been unable to find that connector anywhere else so I have no idea how they sourced it.It lets me run my ait without having to have it electrical taped into the connectors on my AFM harness. https://speedyefi.com/product/90-93-...f-delete-plug/
I am sure that a larger manufacturer makes that plug since jackson racing used to make an extension harness with that connector once upon a time but their extension harness was around $90 last time I checked if it was even able to be had anymore.
Also, I bought this and it fit great for the 1.6 chassis tps connector. This connector coupled with a stock 1.8 tps connector will let me make a tps sensor pigtail to go from 1.6 to 1.8 without having to actually cut any chassis wires. Thought it might be helpful to you guys in the future who don't want to cut any chassis wires.
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