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Old 02-08-2009, 11:01 PM   #21
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+port work and valves = baller
That's my plan at least. One day I'll grow up and decide if it's going to be the 99 or the 01 head...
the 01 long block in my shed means I've grown up?
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:20 PM   #22
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At what RPM do you see full boost? Tell me more about how it feels to you. Would you ever go smaller or feel like you would want more?
FWIW I downgraded from a 2860rs to a 2560r and am happy with my choice. Yeah it gets a little flat at high rpms but I am almost never above 5-5.5k because a) there is too much traffic most of the time and b) I have enough power below that that I am going very fast by that point anyway.
I like being able to tap the peddle at virtually any speed and any cruising rpm and scoot ahead whereas I didn't have that with the 2860rs. That did keep building power all the way to redline but like I said I am rarely up that high so it didn't really suit my needs.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:43 AM   #23
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dammit u should know by now get the big nasty u know u want it. The instant is nice but god damn the rush is even better
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:45 AM   #24
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Sav, what king of air temps you seeing on the track with 15 psi?
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:41 PM   #25
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the 01 long block in my shed means I've grown up?
Nah, I was talking about when I get all growed up and actually do something cool with my car. I have both 01 and 99 heads, need to decide which to build then swap on.

My 01 long block is in the garage.
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:04 PM   #26
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Nah, I was talking about when I get all growed up and actually do something cool with my car. I have both 01 and 99 heads, need to decide which to build then swap on.
I'm still waiting on the pictures you promised to send over two weeks ago. Are you not getting email now?
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:06 PM   #27
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P--I indeed sent them on time and as promised. Did you not get them? Spam folder maybe?

(PS that's a different head in question)
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:19 PM   #28
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P--I indeed sent them on time and as promised. Did you not get them? Spam folder maybe?

(PS that's a different head in question)
I just looked through my email, spam folder and all, back through Dec. Please resend them when you get a chance.

Thanks
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:53 PM   #29
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You can laugh on this one but I just bought an '05 suby outback 2.5XT which has a reasonable sized turbo (under 6 seconds to 60 is quick in my book for a 3600lb family car and it's manual of course with a short throw kit and momo wheel - I like whomever originally bought this car). But the turbo is used a lot of the time vs my miata with the 2860 which admitedly has a little lag but just lays down the power.

On one of the many times I ran deals gap (I live 6hrs away) I was out with the Kill Boy Evo (highly modified) and a pack of rice burners and neither the rice burners nor the evo could get away.... That being said it would probably be annoying if I were a full out auto crosser but it's loads of fun to stay in higher rpm and in that big boost where tire smoking fun is to be had. Man I miss driving my car... I've killed the motor more or less and am waiting on a new one - the suby is the new DD for work, no more abusing the miata for 90miles a day! I will be saving that **** for weekends and trailered events.

One other happenstance - I was driving up in the mountains (of course) and there was a mustange club out - lots of cobras etc. They were easy picking with the 2860 on the hwy...

But they were good sports about it and we talked at a gas station. Long story short the larger turbos can be lots of fun - it really just depends what you're going to do with it. I've also tuned my car for more low end power so it makes up for some of the turbo's latter spooling. A 3" exhaust would also help .... Yeah I'd love to and may very well do some headwork in the near future too.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
At what RPM do you see full boost? Tell me more about how it feels to you. Would you ever go smaller or feel like you would want more?
I see full boost around 3500 rpm. I can probably do more to make my turbo spool faster. For city driving and weekend hard driving, I think the 2560 suits me fine. I've got more head room if I want it but I won't use it unless I get another daily driver.
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:01 AM   #31
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I kinda wanna downgrade to a 2871 with the anti-surge comp housing.
I want to upgrade to one. Which 2871 do you mean with the anti-surge comp housing? I looked at the ones on the Garrett site and did not see that in the descriptions so I am seeking enlightenment o wise one.
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:29 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
Sav, what king of air temps you seeing on the track with 15 psi?
I don't track it at 15psi, more like 12-13. Boost control has always been shitty enough that it overshoots to 15 and then holds 12-13. IATs are around 110-115 on a 100 degree day or so. I don't get to log a lot on track.
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:54 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
I want to upgrade to one. Which 2871 do you mean with the anti-surge comp housing? I looked at the ones on the Garrett site and did not see that in the descriptions so I am seeking enlightenment o wise one.
Garrett GT2871R: atpturbo.com

scroll to bottom.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:19 AM   #34
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Call Corkey. he told me that he would never go over a 2560 in a 1.6L, you loose to much fun.
My car istantly hits rev limiter in first, almost the same in second, and screams in third and forth.

As much as turbo's cost, I would probably drive to get a ride in a forum members car, just to be sure.
I have the 2554 and the 2560, but the 2554 car has such a restrictive system. I can't really compare them. It is like apples to banana's
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:32 AM   #35
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:33 PM   #36
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^^ Thanks. I get it now. I had forgotten about the ported shroud discussion on Turbo Tech 103. So if I understand it correctly, that is nice to have since it widens the operating range of the turbo to the left (on the compressor map), which helps offset the fact you are running the turbo at the lower end of its operating range in a 1.8L engine.

It seems like one of these with a tubular manifold, a good exhaust, and a built bottom end would be streetable. I'd give up some spool for the top end and the efficiency. If it made say 10psi (with an EBC) by 3500-4000 it would still be great.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:56 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
It seems like one of these with a tubular manifold, a good exhaust, and a built bottom end would be streetable. I'd give up some spool for the top end and the efficiency. If it made say 10psi (with an EBC) by 3500-4000 it would still be great.

DO IT!!! and sell me your 2560.
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:42 PM   #38
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^^ LOL you have no idea how tempted I am. A heads-up though. I'll be looking to sell my turbo (BEGI ported GT2560), mani (cast directed pulse), and DP (stainless). And since they are all low mileage (less than a year old) and in excellent condition I will not be inclined to let them go dirt cheap. They will be cheaper than new of course so if someone is looking it will be a good deal.

If I can modify the DP easily I may keep that. I think it would only need to be shortened, and the flange would have to be cut and rotated. Just depends on how much a new one is.

Get out of my head you modification bastards! My credit card is smoking hot!
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:45 PM   #39
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Phil I have a 2560 on my car and I was really toying with the idea of upgrading to the turbo Y8s has on his car. But after driving the car with it for almost 6 months now and at 12psi, I like the feel. Granted, I don't have anything to compare it to but for what I use my car for which is primarily daily driving when I don't drive my truck to work and spirited driving on the weekends it's great. I'll be doing a Chin Motorsports event in 3/7/09 in Homestead so that'll be my first experience with it on the track. I may change my mind then, but for now I'll stick with the 2560. What I may do before I think about upgrading the turbo is replace the downpipe and exhaust to 3"
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:30 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
^^ Thanks. I get it now. I had forgotten about the ported shroud discussion on Turbo Tech 103. So if I understand it correctly, that is nice to have since it widens the operating range of the turbo to the left (on the compressor map), which helps offset the fact you are running the turbo at the lower end of its operating range in a 1.8L engine.

It seems like one of these with a tubular manifold, a good exhaust, and a built bottom end would be streetable. I'd give up some spool for the top end and the efficiency. If it made say 10psi (with an EBC) by 3500-4000 it would still be great.
You should go for a ride in my car before you make a decision. I've driven a 250whp FMII, and I don't remember it moving like this.

I think you should aim for the meat of the efficiency range in your goal. I'd like to know if my drop in static compression with dramatically increased spark advance made all that torque. Magic started to happen when I got up to 14psi...or the fat of the efficiency plot according to smart people. The boost/wtq ratio supported this inference.

disclaimer:
I'm not an engineer so don't listen to anything I typed.
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