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Does this even make sense?
I'm due for an engine build because my current one has been through hell and back, burns oil, bad compression, etc. I found something for a good deal, but this is what the seller is telling me...
The engine itself is solid. What happened was the key that holds the crankshaft pulley broke, wobbling out the crankshaft pulley, and roughing up the timing belt cover and belt. Essentially, it needs a new crankshaft pulley, timing belt, and timing belt cover. The engine is strong, looks like when the last timing belt change was done, the crankshaft pulley bolt didn't get tightened enough so it wobbled out and broke the key. Sorry, I don't have a way to test the compression. I know it runs like a champ (or it will again) once it gets a timing belt back on it. I was driving it when the bolt came loose and the pulley wobbled off. It still fired up no problem, but with the missing pulley it was destroying the timing belt. Mileage is about 135k (I can't check it right now, working) but I can get the actual when I get home. It's not low mileage, but in good shape. There are no oil leaks and it does not burn oil. I park it in my garage and have never had a drop come out. The tranny was replaced and has about 85k, as it had to be swapped out when a shop forgot to put fluid back in after a clutch install. The transmission has an ACT clutch and lightweight flywheel. |
i replaced my pulley boss (where the keyway is) on my engine. i wrote about it here - https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...180#post835180
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though. |
Originally Posted by phillyb
(Post 886517)
i replaced my pulley boss (where the keyway is) on my engine. i wrote about it here - https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...180#post835180
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though. Is there any way I can get compression numbers in the current situation? I know how to do the test. |
i don't think it's the same problem per se.
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Originally Posted by phillyb
(Post 886522)
i don't think it's the same problem per se.
Anyone else have some input? |
Make sure he sends you pics of the keyway on the crankshaft to make sure it isn't chewed out. I have seen some 1800 engines with this problem, requiring a whole new crank & associated costs.
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I would want clear pictures of the keyway on the crank before I even thought about that motor. Replacing the pulleys is easy, repairing a crank that is actually damaged is a pita.
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1 Attachment(s)
Thanks guys. Here is what he emailed back.
I have attached a pic of the crankshaft outlet from the front of the motor. You will see that the timing belt is there and needs changing. The little square key has broken off cleanly and needs to be replaced. It should just pull out and you stick another one in. It's not that difficult of a job, but it requires removal of the radiator (which I replaced when the timing belt was changed, so it's pretty new also). If you're swapping engines it shouldn't be an issue. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339110990 I've never done a timing belt before, can this be easily fixed? |
TB is one of the easiest things.
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Super easy if you have a buddy to hold the camshafts for you, I mean you could cross two wrenches and clamp them but that is just a pain in the ass.
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lol. that's noob.
it's a one man job, just need one wrench on the cam bolt. |
I like using two hands.
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That crankshaft is fulcked. Run away. Just keep looking and pretend like you never saw that one.
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Originally Posted by adamvanxxx
(Post 886677)
I like using two hands.
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Okay fuckers, which is it? My 240 buddy tells me it needs a new crank. If its not a hard fix I'd love to pick it up for cheap and learn something.
Edit: that sounded like I was pissed. I luv u all. |
It needs a new crank. I've swapped cranks before on 1.6 for that very problem. It's not as easy as just swapping engines and refreshing the belts, but it's not hard. Oil pan off, baffle out, oil pump off, main caps out, disconnect rods, reassembly is reverse of removal.
And at that point you might as well tap the connecting rod/piston assemblies out (assuming the head is off) and voila, you have a more or less blank block for a rebuild. I really wouldn't trust an engine that's ran without a lower pulley on though. Whoever thought it was wise to start it up again after that fell off is dumb enough to do other stupid things. |
The crank in the pic is good for a door stop.
If you can get that engine on the cheap, and along with the one in your car now you can do a simple stock rebuild and roll on. How is the crank in the engine you have now? |
That crank shows major damage. The motor is trash.
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Looks like its junk. Its not worth the risk and labor to take a chance.
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Das wat I sayed! Y u doubt me?
It's junk. |
His response.
The engine didn't run without the lower pulley, the lower pulley came off as I was driving, causing the damage in the picture. Also, how is a crankshaft screwed because an external key breaks? That doesn't even make sense. It does not need a new crankshaft. It needs a new key and pulley, and a timing belt. I understand people on forums have opinions, but they seem to jump to conclusions about situations they know nothing about. |
[QUOTE=_spyder;886652]Thanks guys. Here is what he emailed back.
And here's the money shot. (I'm on my phone, I hope this works) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339110990 I've never done a timing belt before, can this be easily fixed?[/Q where do you guys see damage in this picture. |
The keyway slot is severely gouged out, which will cause severe timing issues. It can probably be fixed with welding and machining, but the crank is most likely going to have to be removed at that point.
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^^^^ this
The keyway is hammered out from the crank gear slipping back and forth. Just a guess I would say it is off by .125-.200 and that is alot The keyway/key is what indexes the gear so the time belt can be set. The cost of welding and repaing the keyway will cost more than what a replacemnt cank can be bought for. Spyder, if you can buy the engine for around $100, it may be worth it just for parts... Head, block, rods.... |
Why the f*ck are you still talking about this with anyone? THE CRANK IS JUNK! LOOK AT THE FUCCCKING PICTURE YOU POSTED! THE FIRST TIME I SAW IT I KNEW IT WAS JUNK AND TOLD YOU SO ALONG WITH EVERYONE ELSE HERE!
Dude, you should totally buy that engine. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it. We don't know what we are talking about. The seller has your best interest at heart. He would never hurt you because he cares about you. He has nothing to gain from selling you that engine. He is doing it out of his love for humanity. Kittens will die if you don't buy that engine. |
I agreed with you guys, I was just posting up his response. I won't be using the engine.
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lol. I was just funnin' with ya. I'm not really that easy to get wound up.
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The key way lines up the crank pulley in the correct position. The crank bolt clamps the crank pulley to the timing belt pulley / crank shaft. In an ideal world the key way will not be subjected to torque forces and surface friction will hold alignment. (Some modern engines have no key way and rely on clamping force only.)
When I got my car it had a similar problem to the ones in your pictures but additionally the crank nose or crank shaft was also bent. I ended up using a custom adapter plate, longer crank bolt and a taper shim to fix it. https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/crank-nose-adapter-flange-64570/ Obviously it is better to avoid buying something like this but it is fixable.:2cents: |
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