does the late model tray help support the mains?
03-31-2017, 11:56 AM
#1
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does the late model tray help support the mains?
When I swapped in a crate motor two seasons ago (i think it was a 1999 or perhaps 2001) I noticed that it didn't have the same pan/windage tray as the 2004 motor that I took out. The later model tray seemed to have more structure to it. I figured it was to help saddle the mains, so I swapped the late model pan/tray into the 2001.
I am now in the process of refreshing the two motors. My goal is to have 2 completed longblocks. I am unsure I need to look for a second late model pan/tray to complete my spare motor.
Is there any consensus as to if these later model pans/trays are needed in a moderate boost /track application?
I am now in the process of refreshing the two motors. My goal is to have 2 completed longblocks. I am unsure I need to look for a second late model pan/tray to complete my spare motor.
Is there any consensus as to if these later model pans/trays are needed in a moderate boost /track application?
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03-31-2017, 01:50 PM
#3
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The MBSP (main bearing support plate) appears to be designed to help support the mains, but there's at least one case of someone (Savington) blowing out a main cap while using the stock bolts and the MBSP. So there's probably a case to be made for running it *and* ARP studs (which requires modifying the MBSP to fit), but it's not a substitute for the studs.
I didn't bother on my motor.
Note that the oil pan is different to accommodate the MBSP, so you need to source one of those too if you want to add it.
--Ian
I didn't bother on my motor.
Note that the oil pan is different to accommodate the MBSP, so you need to source one of those too if you want to add it.
--Ian
Last edited by codrus; 03-31-2017 at 04:13 PM.
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03-31-2017, 04:47 PM
#7
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MBSP did me no favors. I much prefer the 99 pan since it takes no work to make the ARP studs fit. ARP mains are just as important as forged rods in a built BP, IMO.
It's important that you run a matching pan/windage tray, since the pans are machined differently. The front/rear seals are also slightly different between the two pans, a detail that few aftermarket seal companies have picked up on.
It's important that you run a matching pan/windage tray, since the pans are machined differently. The front/rear seals are also slightly different between the two pans, a detail that few aftermarket seal companies have picked up on.
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03-31-2017, 05:41 PM
#9
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MBSP did me no favors. I much prefer the 99 pan since it takes no work to make the ARP studs fit. ARP mains are just as important as forged rods in a built BP, IMO.
It's important that you run a matching pan/windage tray, since the pans are machined differently. The front/rear seals are also slightly different between the two pans, a detail that few aftermarket seal companies have picked up on.
It's important that you run a matching pan/windage tray, since the pans are machined differently. The front/rear seals are also slightly different between the two pans, a detail that few aftermarket seal companies have picked up on.
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04-02-2017, 12:17 AM
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IMO, if you open the motor, they should go in. I broke my OEM main bolt rapidly at 300whp, which means you should install them at 250. IOW, if you are buying rods, you should be buying main studs.
The motor in Rover right now is a bare-bones build, what I would call a "stage 1" shortblock. OEM oil pump and pistons, but rods and ARP mains.
The motor in Rover right now is a bare-bones build, what I would call a "stage 1" shortblock. OEM oil pump and pistons, but rods and ARP mains.
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04-03-2017, 11:22 PM
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(edit, you can probably do that with the pan sitting on the ground, actually)
--Ian
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04-04-2017, 12:00 AM
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AFAIK this is correct. The pan height change is miniscule (we're talking the thickness of the windage tray, so ~.040" or so), not nearly enough to require a change to the dipstick. AFAIK the only unique dipstick is from the 99 CA-spec cars, which got a different dipstick and matching tube.
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