dyno tuned 3071
#21
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yepper, kinda expected that with the bigger turbo.
I'm at a loss, I am still running a stock 94 head but I figured the big turbo would be enough to blow it through anyway, maybe not 400hp but I was really hoping for 350.
I'm at a loss, I am still running a stock 94 head but I figured the big turbo would be enough to blow it through anyway, maybe not 400hp but I was really hoping for 350.
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He did Sav. The bottom chart in post # 14. You have to divide the numbers by 4 (the link works in .25 increments).
100kPa @ 4500 rpm = 116 points
116 points / 4 points per degree = 29 degrees
So 29 degrees advance at 100kPa & 4500 rpm
100kPa @ 4500 rpm = 116 points
116 points / 4 points per degree = 29 degrees
So 29 degrees advance at 100kPa & 4500 rpm
#23
6.25 gph that is alot of water? that is more than i spray in a standalone setting. Ok after using bens post of knowledge to descipher the link data your timming is pretty decent.
So you could be blowing out spark, loosing boost from a weak wastgate. The way your torque falls off leads me to believe it is not staying fully closed. Your knock sensor might be a tad sensitive as well. +1 to get a detonation monitoring system that depends on your own ears, with this you can verify if what is causing a retard event is knock or maybe a alternator getting loose, lifter tap etc.
So you could be blowing out spark, loosing boost from a weak wastgate. The way your torque falls off leads me to believe it is not staying fully closed. Your knock sensor might be a tad sensitive as well. +1 to get a detonation monitoring system that depends on your own ears, with this you can verify if what is causing a retard event is knock or maybe a alternator getting loose, lifter tap etc.
#24
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Thanks, Ben. I've never played with Link software.
18 degrees at 180kpa, 12 degrees at 220kpa, on a 3071R with water? Something is fucked in your timing. Check your belt and make sure you didn't botch the base timing or the marks.
18 degrees at 180kpa, 12 degrees at 220kpa, on a 3071R with water? Something is fucked in your timing. Check your belt and make sure you didn't botch the base timing or the marks.
#26
I don't see where you describe your exhaust.
What kind of dynojet is this? I am taking by context that it does not have a brake. I thought Ken Hill was a decent tuner. Your account of events, taking pulls and watching the knock sensor, does not instill confidence.
Link is old. What about your mani and dp, current gen stuff or old?
And that is quite a bit of timing.
What kind of dynojet is this? I am taking by context that it does not have a brake. I thought Ken Hill was a decent tuner. Your account of events, taking pulls and watching the knock sensor, does not instill confidence.
Link is old. What about your mani and dp, current gen stuff or old?
And that is quite a bit of timing.
i emailed ken a long time ago to tune mine but he wouldn't touch megasquirt
#28
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I don't see where you describe your exhaust.
What kind of dynojet is this? I am taking by context that it does not have a brake. I thought Ken Hill was a decent tuner. Your account of events, taking pulls and watching the knock sensor, does not instill confidence.
Link is old. What about your mani and dp, current gen stuff or old?
And that is quite a bit of timing.
What kind of dynojet is this? I am taking by context that it does not have a brake. I thought Ken Hill was a decent tuner. Your account of events, taking pulls and watching the knock sensor, does not instill confidence.
Link is old. What about your mani and dp, current gen stuff or old?
And that is quite a bit of timing.
Not sure the type of Dynojet, in-ground, expensive looking, did have a brake.
Manifold is the FM cast unit, DP is the current gen FM cast unit as well.
I don't know that Ken is the issue, something just doesn't seem right. I tripple checked the timing belt and confirmed TDC between number 1 and the crank pulley. Like I say, I'm at a loss.
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You confirm 19 teeth between the cam marks? I had problems with low timing and crappy spool, turned out my intake cam was retarded 2 teeth.
Although honestly, with that timing map, '94 head, 2.5" exhaust, and a .64 A/R 3071R, I don't know that you're that far off. You need the .86, '99 head, 3" exhaust and a good timing map and I bet you'd see a 50whp bump.
Although honestly, with that timing map, '94 head, 2.5" exhaust, and a .64 A/R 3071R, I don't know that you're that far off. You need the .86, '99 head, 3" exhaust and a good timing map and I bet you'd see a 50whp bump.
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You confirm 19 teeth between the cam marks? I had problems with low timing and crappy spool, turned out my intake cam was retarded 2 teeth.
Although honestly, with that timing map, '94 head, 2.5" exhaust, and a .64 A/R 3071R, I don't know that you're that far off. You need the .86, '99 head, 3" exhaust and a good timing map and I bet you'd see a 50whp bump.
Although honestly, with that timing map, '94 head, 2.5" exhaust, and a .64 A/R 3071R, I don't know that you're that far off. You need the .86, '99 head, 3" exhaust and a good timing map and I bet you'd see a 50whp bump.
FM is getting *average* 35whp gain going from Link to Hydra. Skip Cannon's car picked up 50 whp. I'd bet yours would also pick up more than average.
#35
So what do Hydra/MS do that Link doesn't? The same tune should should produce the same numbers right? If they're both tuned to 11.5AFR with the same spark table, hp should be identical. Resolution helps driveability/part throttle fine tuning, not necessarily peak numbers. I could see 50hp from a SAFC fuel tune only to a standalone fuel/timing tune, but 50hp from equally tuned standalones? seriously?
#37
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Word. Here's a question for the group, should it have been tuned completely without meth/water first and then add the juice and tune appropriately? The one thing that stands out to me is the very low fuel values. Those injectors were working at like 45%!