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Efficient Engine Bolt-ons

 
Old 01-10-2019, 04:33 PM
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The information is here, but you need to know how to fish first. Fishgivers, we are not.
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Sigh

I sent Glory here in the hopes of plugging her into the best Miata racer community on the web. She is a legit racer and good customer. You guys disappoint me. Yes, she should have researched a bit more an introduced herself but jeez.

Let's reset. Give here a chance to add the missing details on her project and do over. I really don't want to have to stop sending my customers here to add to the community.
How were we supposed to know this? Surely you knew what we (and yourself, with all the posts you make about signal:noise ratio and the dressings you've given noobs yourself here) expect in order to maintain the high level of forum that you consider the best racer community on the web.


I think i can find a post to copy paste in order to set this straight, however.

https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...8/#post1510017

Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Full cage, racing suit, halo seats, HANS device, built motor, Trackspeed EFR, Xidas, 6ULs, RC-1s or better, Megasquirt Pro or better, Cadillac Getrag rear end, BMW transmission swap, Stoptech calipers and rotors all around. Also start with an 01-02 or may as well not even bother.
I have since been informed that fire suppression, arm restraints, and nets (both windows and interior) are also required for light duty HPDE use.
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I have since been informed that fire suppression, arm restraints, and nets (both windows and interior) are also required for light duty HPDE use.
It's true. Full safety or nothing. Your life is worth it. If you can't afford to drop $20k on safety gear then you can't afford to be on the track. Roll bars...Not even once.
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:51 PM
  #24  
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Yup, I agree. Hard to separate the wheat from the chaff. But instantly resorting to vulgar insults shouldn't be one of the options. Not everyone here is guilty of that of course but a little adult goes a long way.

I suggest the legacy members here self appoint themselves as mentors to point newbs to relevant threads to help them get started. Discourage other members from lashing out and tone down the vulgarity. The strength of this board is
the combined knowledge of the legacy members and info recorded here. The weakness is that is poorly indexed. This poor indexing is made more difficult because newbs don't even ask the right questions. So they don't know which search terms or how to vet the answers.

There is enough info here to fill a decent book on how to Miata. But it's like someones ADD notes scribble over several notebooks without any timeline, scattered about the house and workshop. Good luck gleaning the core data you need for your project.

Our board works very well for experienced tuners that already know enough to either search and/or ask the right questions. To all else, beware :(
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:00 PM
  #25  
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We're a fickle crowd..... For obvious reasons.

I've got several saved n/a links that I'll dump into this post when find them.... Though I wonder if OP will be back?


Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
But it's like someones ADD notes scribble over several notebooks without any timeline, scattered about the house and workshop. Good luck gleaning the core data you need for your project.
This a very good explanation of all my build spreadsh....... Vegas is coming to GLTC?!
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:00 PM
  #26  
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Most efficient bolt on for mine was a strut brace.

Brace itself gives me something to lean on when fixing ****, and the end plates stop my beer falling over.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Sigh

I sent Glory here in the hopes of plugging her into the best Miata racer community on the web. She is a legit racer and good customer. You guys disappoint me. Yes, she should have researched a bit more an introduced herself but jeez.

Let's reset. Give here a chance to add the missing details on her project and do over. I really don't want to have to stop sending my customers here to add to the community.
Ell ohhhhh ellllll



Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Yup, I agree. Hard to separate the wheat from the chaff. But instantly resorting to vulgar insults shouldn't be one of the options. Not everyone here is guilty of that of course but a little adult goes a long way.

I suggest the legacy members here self appoint themselves as mentors to point newbs to relevant threads to help them get started. Discourage other members from lashing out and tone down the vulgarity. The strength of this board is
the combined knowledge of the legacy members and info recorded here. The weakness is that is poorly indexed. This poor indexing is made more difficult because newbs don't even ask the right questions. So they don't know which search terms or how to vet the answers.

There is enough info here to fill a decent book on how to Miata. But it's like someones ADD notes scribble over several notebooks without any timeline, scattered about the house and workshop. Good luck gleaning the core data you need for your project.

Our board works very well for experienced tuners that already know enough to either search and/or ask the right questions. To all else, beware :(
Our records speak for themselves.

Last edited by 18psi; 01-10-2019 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:18 PM
  #28  
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Well I was all set to just come in and discuss the efficiency of engine mods and discuss Miatas (weird huh), oh well.

But, I'll do it anyways. We'll start with a decent N/A, assuming we start with a stock, low mileage NB1 motor, haven't dyno'd a lot of these, but I'm guessing 110whp? I'll also just pay attention to the engine. Decent clutch, suspension, brakes, fluids, radiator, and reroute should all be installed inconjunction or even before any of these mods.

RB header - $439
K&N intake - $279
full RB exhaust - $87+$147+$269
MS - $1000
tune - $1000
tomei cams - $950
head work - $500
subs/shims - $320

That's $4991 for 170hp, just over $83 per hp, or 0.012hp per dollar.

Now for forced induction, assuming the same car but for sake of simplicity, FM's kit.

FM2 kit* - $3120
FF injectors - $319
MS - $1000
tune - $1000
EBC - $58
inconel studs** - $129

That's $5626 for 240hp, just over $43 per hp, or .023hp per dollar.

*This was custom spec'd, no injectors, gauges, or boost control, but with a 3" dp, cat, and exhaust.
**Some might say unnecessary, I would disagree.

Turbo definitely looks good, but some people aren't willing to spend $5000 on a $3000 car. N/A also looks a tiny bit better if you drop the cam associated parts, closer to $80/hp and $3000 total, plus you could save another $2k and drop the MS/tune. Probably forgetting some things, like you could add a square top for either of these for a little more high end breathing, either/or should probably have a forged oil pump, and you can argue that I went into the engine for the N/A build but didn't put a forged engine build into the turbo setups, but the budgets came out similar and i was the only helpful response so **** you!
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:31 PM
  #29  
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Stick around Glory if you are interested in modding the Miata. Read a bunch, post specific questions after searching. I am not defending the behavior, but it won't take you long to realize that questions like your original pop up regularly, and the people who can actually give you good info are tired of spoonfeeding.

Pretty much every noob gets the same treatment, ignore it.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Ted75zcar View Post
Stick around Glory if you are interested in modding the Miata. Read a bunch, post specific questions after searching. I am not defending the behavior, but it won't take you long to realize that questions like your original pop up regularly, and the people who can actually give you good info are tired of spoonfeeding.

Pretty much every noob gets the same treatment, ignore it.
Well put
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ted75zcar View Post
Stick around Glory if you are interested in modding the Miata. Read a bunch, post specific questions after searching. I am not defending the behavior, but it won't take you long to realize that questions like your original pop up regularly, and the people who can actually give you good info are tired of spoonfeeding.

Pretty much every noob gets the same treatment, ignore it.
Well said.

I confess, I usually issue a caveat to the many customers I have steered here via email/phone: Search first, introduce yourself, include as much detail on your project, budget, resources, class regs... then ask a question. I skipped that tutorial and she got blasted. Lesson learned.

Originally Posted by hks_kansei View Post
Most efficient bolt on for mine was a strut brace.

Brace itself gives me something to lean on when fixing ****, and the end plates stop my beer falling over.
Don't go giving away all the secrets dude. That's some next level ****.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:55 PM
  #32  
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Hi guys,

Trying to make it right!

I inherited my dad's 1999 NB Miata a little over a year ago when he passed away. We gave it a very good tune up and I decided to make it a track car that I could participate in Solo 1 events here in Puerto Rico. We are using NASA based rules or a very similar version of them here. I want to keep the car in E category since going up to D I will be competing against cars that are way faster than the Miata in the straight and the track here is basically 2 straights. I will post the rules but they are in Spanish, but I think some things are not that hard to understand. With the things I have and the ones I'm planning on getting I have 25 points from the 19 that I'm targeting to be able to stay en E. I find this car super fun and I'm in the lap times I was shooting to be with a car that only had a front swaybar and 15x8 wheels. Now I want to maximize it with in the rules.

This are the things I have. Not all are installed in the car or are in my wish list.
  • Racing beat front swaybar
  • Racing Beat Swaybar Brace kit
  • Flying Miata Front end Links
  • XIDA Race Coilovers (not installed yet)
  • Racing Beat Power Pulse Muffler
  • Custom Exhaust 2 1/4'
  • Stage 3 Flyin’ Miata Airflow Kit
  • Rollbar
  • DeatschWerks 255 LPH Fuel Pump
  • Goodridge Braided Brake lines
  • Goodridge Braided Clutch line
  • LRB Speed Miata Aluminum Aero Undertray
  • LRB Speed Miata Aluminum Front Sides
  • Enkei RPF1 Gold Wheels 15x8
  • Green drop in filter
  • Garage Star Radiator Cooling Panel
  • European/JDM intake manifold (on wishlist)
  • Garage Star Alternator Pulley (not installed yet)
  • Garage Star Water Pump Pulley (not installed yet)
  • Jackson Racing 4-2-1 header (not installed yet)
  • 5X Racing Adjustable Timing Wheel (not installed yet)
  • Final Drive (on wishlist)
  • BP5a exhaust cam out of a 2004-05 Mazdaspeed Miata (on wishlist)

My purpose of opening this thread, and I apologize for doing it incorrectly, was to see from your experience what should I eliminate or add to be able to stay in the category I want to run.

I have a tire sponsor giving me Nankang tires and will be using the AR-1 size 225/45/15 which are 80 tread wear.

One of the things I've been told repeatedly is that these cars do not produce power no matter what you do to them. My plan is not to open the engine and do what ever is worth doing on the outside. One of the things I've been told is to use the 99-00 exhaust cam in the intake side and also i have written down to use the 04-05 MSM intake cam.

I read that I should put the filter in the cold side of the engine but not sure on how to do it with the flow meter.

I don't have much mechanical skills but I have a person who installs the parts for my other race cars and he does what it's difficult for me to do. His knowledge is not in Miata. The little knowledge I have is because I read and ask a lot about the car I'm driving and write everything down.

I don't have a big budget but prefer to wait a little more and buy the right part.

I'm new to forums so if I missed any information I should have written down here please let me know.

Last edited by gloryracing; 01-12-2019 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Coming out with out spaces
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:59 PM
  #33  
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nice.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hks_kansei View Post
Most efficient bolt on for mine was a strut brace.

Brace itself gives me something to lean on when fixing ****, and the end plates stop my beer falling over.
False. I had a perfectly good Dos Equis fall over into the back of the bay last weekend that I'd placed on the strut bar while changing the upstream 02 sensor.

RIP Dos Equis Lager. You will be missed.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Ted75zcar View Post
Stick around Glory if you are interested in modding the Miata. Read a bunch, post specific questions after searching. I am not defending the behavior, but it won't take you long to realize that questions like your original pop up regularly, and the people who can actually give you good info are tired of spoonfeeding.

Pretty much every noob gets the same treatment, ignore it.
Thanks for the advice! Looking forward to learning! I've been reading some of the posts but need to improve my searching skills.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Well I was all set to just come in and discuss the efficiency of engine mods and discuss Miatas (weird huh), oh well.

But, I'll do it anyways. We'll start with a decent N/A, assuming we start with a stock, low mileage NB1 motor, haven't dyno'd a lot of these, but I'm guessing 110whp? I'll also just pay attention to the engine. Decent clutch, suspension, brakes, fluids, radiator, and reroute should all be installed inconjunction or even before any of these mods.

RB header - $439
K&N intake - $279
full RB exhaust - $87+$147+$269
MS - $1000
tune - $1000
tomei cams - $950
head work - $500
subs/shims - $320

That's $4991 for 170hp, just over $83 per hp, or 0.012hp per dollar.

Now for forced induction, assuming the same car but for sake of simplicity, FM's kit.

FM2 kit* - $3120
FF injectors - $319
MS - $1000
tune - $1000
EBC - $58
inconel studs** - $129

That's $5626 for 240hp, just over $43 per hp, or .023hp per dollar.

*This was custom spec'd, no injectors, gauges, or boost control, but with a 3" dp, cat, and exhaust.
**Some might say unnecessary, I would disagree.

Turbo definitely looks good, but some people aren't willing to spend $5000 on a $3000 car. N/A also looks a tiny bit better if you drop the cam associated parts, closer to $80/hp and $3000 total, plus you could save another $2k and drop the MS/tune. Probably forgetting some things, like you could add a square top for either of these for a little more high end breathing, either/or should probably have a forged oil pump, and you can argue that I went into the engine for the N/A build but didn't put a forged engine build into the turbo setups, but the budgets came out similar and i was the only helpful response so **** you!
Wow! Super interesting the way you have it narrowed down.

Will the Tomei cams will work better than the 99-00 or the MSM if the engine is stock inside? Or do I need to do a complete head work to be able to maximize them?
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Well said.

I confess, I usually issue a caveat to the many customers I have steered here via email/phone: Search first, introduce yourself, include as much detail on your project, budget, resources, class regs... then ask a question. I skipped that tutorial and she got blasted. Lesson learned.
Thanks Emilio for the help and can't wait to receive the XIDA Race suspension tomorrow hopefully!
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by gloryracing View Post
Hi guys,

Trying to make it right!

I inherited my dad's 1999 NB Miata a little over a year ago when he passed away. We gave it a very good tune up and I decided to make it a track car that I could participate in Solo 1 events here in Puerto Rico. We are using NASA rules or a very similar version of them here. I want to keep the car in E category since going up to D I will be competing against cars that are way faster than the Miata in the straight and the track here is basically 2 straights. I will post the rules but they are in Spanish, but I think some things are not that hard to understand. With the things I have and the ones I'm planning on getting I have 25 points from the 19 that I'm targeting to be able to stay en E. I find this car super fun and I'm in the lap times I was shooting to be with a car that only had a front swaybar and 15x8 wheels. Now I want to maximize it with in the rules.

This are the things I have. Not all are installed in the car or are in my wish list.
  • Racing beat front swaybar
  • Racing Beat Swaybar Brace kit
  • Flying Miata Front end Links
  • XIDA Race Coilovers (not installed yet)
  • Racing Beat Power Pulse Muffler
  • Custom Exhaust 2 1/4'
  • Stage 3 Flyin’ Miata Airflow Kit
  • OEM Rollbar
  • DeatschWerks 255 LPH Fuel Pump
  • Goodridge Braided Brake lines
  • Goodridge Braided Clutch line
  • LRB Speed Miata Aluminum Aero Undertray
  • LRB Speed Miata Aluminum Front Sides
  • Enkei RPF1 Gold Wheels 15x8
  • Green drop in filter
  • Garage Star Radiator Cooling Panel
  • European/JDM intake manifold (on wishlist)
  • Garage Star Alternator Pulley (not installed yet)
  • Garage Star Water Pump Pulley (not installed yet)
  • Jackson Racing 4-2-1 header (not installed yet)
  • 5X Racing Adjustable Timing Wheel (not installed yet)
  • Final Drive (on wishlist)
  • BP5a exhaust cam out of a 2004-05 Mazdaspeed Miata (on wishlist)

My purpose of opening this thread, and I apologize for doing it incorrectly, was to see from your experience what should I eliminate or add to be able to stay in the category I want to run.

I have a tire sponsor giving me Nankang tires and will be using the AR-1 size 225/45/15 which are 80 tread wear.

One of the things I've been told repeatedly is that these cars do not produce power no matter what you do to them. My plan is not to open the engine and do what ever is worth doing on the outside. One of the things I've been told is to use the 99-00 exhaust cam in the intake side and also i have written down to use the 04-05 MSM intake cam.

I read that I should put the filter in the cold side of the engine but not sure on how to do it with the flow meter.

I don't have much mechanical skills but I have a person who installs the parts for my other race cars and he does what it's difficult for me to do. His knowledge is not in Miata. The little knowledge I have is because I read and ask a lot about the car I'm driving and write everything down.

I don't have a big budget but prefer to wait a little more and buy the right part.

I'm new to forums so if I missed any information I should have written down here please let me know.
Im no expert on classing, but;

What is OEM ROLL BAR? mazda never made a roll bar, only a "style" bar that does nothing to protect you.
What is the purpose of " DeatschWerks 255 LPH Fuel Pump" ? nothing wrong with OEM pump setup, unless E85 or very high HP turbo build.
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:03 PM
  #39  
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Are you planning on E85 or boost? If not, the DW200 pump seems like a bit overkill. It'll work fine, but if you haven't bought the pump yet, the DW100 will be more than adequate.
See trackspeed's recs here Deatschwerks Fuel Pumps (DW100/200/300)

Dammit, borka beat me to it.
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:31 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by borka View Post
Im no expert on classing, but;

What is OEM ROLL BAR? mazda never made a roll bar, only a "style" bar that does nothing to protect you.
What is the purpose of " DeatschWerks 255 LPH Fuel Pump" ? nothing wrong with OEM pump setup, unless E85 or very high HP turbo build.
I'll take a picture of the roll bar. I just wrote what the person that sold it to me mentioned.
The oem pump was not working and we found this option faster than the oem but I'm sure oem would have done the job just fine.
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