gloryracing

Lol! DW200 was the one my supplier had available at the moment.

flier129

iTrader: (7)

I can bench race for days on mods you should do for NASA classing! Keep in mind D and E are no more, replaced with 5 and 6 which are different rulesets.

Blkbrd69

Yes this bunch is viscous, full of great knowledge but can become trolls in a keystroke. Search function is your friend, or just spend your time reading the Race prep area.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e-103-a-90770/ just one of many.

The rules you are running will dictate many of your mods. Do not know if the island rules are much looser???

Mainland NASA TTE can be very fickle on any non stock or even factory package upgrades. Read the rules carefully and talk to the TT director to see how you should go.

In Florida you will need a car running at the front of spec Miata or E30 to be competitive in TTE and will need Hoosiers. Many of the mods you mention will kick you pointed up, and a lot are not relevant for a TTE build.

What you have listed is much closer to a Supermiata S2 build, unfortunately that does not exist anywhere near you.

There are several very good TTE build threads in both the road race and build sections.

https://www.miataturbo.net/local-mee...ackdays-97589/

gloryracing

Will need to compare them to see how similar they are but I'm sure we have some differences. Here the NB Miata starts in E with no penalty points. Would need to see the NASA classing to compare.

gloryracing

I'm sure they might be a little looser.

I agree with the mods. That's why I want to keep learning to make the right decision with the mods that go in.

I had not occurred to me to search for TTE. Thanks!!!

Blkbrd69

A few notes;

Racing is expensive.....very expensive......did I mention it gets stupid expensive. Sold my Corvettes to run a Miata and now could have bought a C5Z for what I have in the Miata. Realize everything is much more expensive on the island

A good rollbar IE Blackbird Fabworx and a style bar are 2 completely different things. Style bar should not pass tech even though the do sneak by sometimes if the tech guy doesn't know what to look for.

A "real" race seat, Hans and 6 point harness is worth several seconds on many tracks. 3+ for me at Sebring. Barring that a G-Loc helps.

The Xida coilovers are awesome. They will make you want sticky tires, bushings, ext. ext. ext.

Ask and research, learn from other racers mistakes.

Most of what you read on many forums is outdated and just flat wrong, written by "guys-kids" that are doing things for the first time and going them wrong. Noted you are not either.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Fastest way to become a milionare- start with 10 million and begin racing something with 4 wheels.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

The quote is: "The best way to make a small fortune in racing is to start with a big one." - Junior Johnson

flier129

iTrader: (7)

Here's some light reading on both ST5/TT5 and ST6/TT6:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...st5-tt5-95309/
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...st6-tt6-97655/

Here's my favorite ST5/TT5 build:
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e-103-a-90770/

And here's my favorite ST6/TT6 build(I'm biased):
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...st6-tt6-83284/


The new rule-set for the number classes honestly makes it easier to manage. Less worry about getting the right combo of this part or that part for the correct amount of points. It's based on a weight-to-power formula with a handful of modifiers, such as the type of tires, aero, A-arm suspension, brakes, etc. Everything you have listed on your parts list doesn't add as a modifier. The rules don't care if you have an ECU, 5A intake cam, or hood vents now. They do have a tire template rule, it's a measurement of the width of the tire while mounted on the wheel. Certain car weights have to fit into certain templates. Keep in mind competition weight is "wet" so with driver, fuel, cool-suit, etc.

Here's some example weightower ratios for the NB:
ST5/TT5
2250lbs @ 144rwhp avg ~150rwhp peak. Front air-dam, 4" splitter, rear wing. Must follow 226mm tire template (205 R7 on 15x8)
2400lbs @ 154rwhp avg ~159rwhp peak. Front air-dam, 4" splitter, rear wing. Must follow 257mm tire template (205/225 R7 on 15x9)
2450lbs @ 168rwhp avg ~174rwhp peak. OEM aero. Must follow 257mm tire template

ST6/TT6
2400lbs @ 128rwhp avg ~133rwhp peak. OEM aero. 257mm tire template
2450lbs @ 131rwhp avg ~136rwhp peak. OEM aero. 257mm tire template
2300lbs @ 123rwhp avg ~128rwhp peak. OEM aero. 226mm tire template.


NASA does have a decent calculator that helps with determining your power and weight goals: https://form.jotform.com/drivenasa/s...ification-form

It sounds like you're on the right track for parts and several people here have already started giving some good input. So what you'll really want to decide next is what class will you run? Thankfully there isn't anything inherent on a 6 car that will stop it from becoming a good 5 car. So if you want to start in 6 then move up to 5 later on, you'll be good to go. Only constraint I could think of for that route is "while you're in there" mods not being done initially.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

As others have mentioned, NASA "letter" classes (Performance Touring) are officially defunct. If your group in PR wants to hit the easy button by cribbing NASA rules, it would be even easier for both racers and the sanctioning body to adopt the current ST (Super Touring) rules.
Easier to figure out what to build, cheaper to build for a given lap time, easier to tech and police on their side. I'd contact the body and verify which rule set you will need to build to first.

That said, an ST6 car is going to be a lot cheaper to make competitive than an ST5 car. Like junkyard vs built motor cheap. I wrote this a few years back if you plan open the engine: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...g-ideas-83443/
An ST6 car is neither powerful nor light so any speed comes from handling balance and keeping the engine in the powerband as much as possible. Handling wise, it's good shocks and suspension setup coupled with lowest CG you can afford with the lowest MOI (Moment of Inertia) you can build.
That means taking as much weight off the ends of the car as possible, with particular focus on the nose. Every pound counts so things like a lightweight race skin hard top in stead of a factory hard top will pay off.

Powerband wise means careful tuning of engine for greatest area under the curve, not peak power. Then gearing it so it will stay as close to peak power everywhere on track. Most critically when exiting turns. If you fall off the powerband exiting even one turn, that can add a full second to lap time pretty easily.
ST5 car benefits from aero but power still reigns as most important. ST6 car gains little from aero and almost none is allowed anyway.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

I'm surprised NASA hasn't sent a cease and desist letter for using the rulesets or even safety guidelines lol.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, it's really easy to circumvent copyright laws in the US. Just change enough of the text to be able to argue in court that it's original. Court costs money so most smaller companies are reluctant to file suit unless they are sure that they win, be awarded a decent settlement then actually collect on that claim.
But NASA probably doesn't know about it anyway :P

gloryracing

Great information!

It's very interesting all of the things that NASA rules take into consideration to classify a car and adjudicate points penalty. Here in PR they are not weighting the cars, putting them on the dyno or taking points from aero modifications. In our case they don't have the budget, facilities or personnel to conduct those rigorous inspections.

gloryracing

We've been going threw the rules because there are lots of differences but it's interesting to be able to maximize de rules to our advantage. In my case I don't get penalty points for aero so would it be correct to say we could build a ST6 (ST6 = E, correct) that benefits from the aero? I read almost all of your tech articles in the website and it's really great information.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

If aero is free then concentrate on the lowest drag options, considering your power level. Supermiata S1 aero it's going to be your best bet.

gloryracing

I'm going to check it out!